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New to kegging and have a few questions

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IPADrinkerCC

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Sep 18, 2014
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1) easiest,fast and best way to carb keg.
2) is a apartment fridge a good size to start with.
3) santizer lines using pressure to push star san thou them is it the best way ?
 
1) I chill the keg, set the psi to 30 for 36hrs, then dial down to 10-12 for another 24-48 hours. The longer you're able to leave it at serving pressure (10-12) the better it'll be. In a pinch, I've carbed beer in just under 4 days. **be sure to bleed out oxygen after you attached co2*
2) I'm assuming you mean for a kegerator? Any size fridge you have and can use is a good start. I have an old stand-up (top/bottom) fridge and it works great.
3) I usually fill the keg with pbw then push through the lines with co2 at about 5psi. Then I follow with a star san push thru.

Hope this helps, good luck.
 
1) Similar to above poster, I chill the keg for 24 hours (I usually have the gas on at serving pressure during this time), then crank the gas up to 30 PSI and leave it for 24 hours. After that I turn the gas back down to serving pressure and wait a week to two weeks, depending on style, thirst, pipeline, etc.
2) Whatever size works for your space. I use one of those 4.6 cu. ft. Igloo deals. Holds two ball locks and works well for me.
3) Check this thread out - DIY Beer Line Cleaner. I use one of these and I really like it. Simple, fast and effective.

Hope this helps. You're going to love kegging, especially once you get your system/routine down.

Cheers.
 
Is pbw good for the lines? I only clean my metal and glass stuff with pbw.

Additionally, make sure you're beer is at serving temperature when you carbonate. The warmer the beer the higher the psi you need.
 
Welcome to kegging
1) Easiest and best way to carbonate is to first blow off your oxygen then set dial to 12 psi walk away for 4-7 days and enjoy. I don't prefer forced carbonated beer. Waiting the 4-7 days allows your beer to mature and the cold crashing helps clarify your beer too.

2) Biggest size you can afford and room for. I have a 14.8 cu ft chest freezer that has 4 taps and plenty of room left for my growlers and bottles I have.

3) I push my sanitizer thru the lines with CO2, I try to leave some sanitizer in my lines till I keg again.
 
I use a small refrigerator to cold crash the fermentor for a week before transferring the cold beer into a keg. After connecting the cO2 line to the beer out post I purge the O2 out of the keg before filling it with cold beer. Once the keg is full I snap on the lid and purge it again with cO2, I have ball locks on my kegs, then set the gauge to 12 psi and leave it in the refrigerator for a week.
 
Also one more question i have a pim lock keg and all the set up. I know there no different but why all the dislike for pin locks
 
Also one more question i have a pim lock keg and all the set up. I know there no different but why all the dislike for pin locks

All I have ever seen do not have a pressure relief valve....makes it impossible to bleed off the O2.
 
They're wider and shorter so you can't fit as many in the same surface area. They're often more beat up imo, and often don't have convenient pressure relief valves. IMO they're far more cost effective.
 
It seems plenty easy to just keep a screw driver around

It is, and no doubt it's not hard to release pressure from a pin lock keg, but in retrospect isn't a built in relief valve all that much easier/more convenient? Don't have to disconnect the gas in, don't have to fetch the screwdriver, don't have to be concerned sanitizing if it's a not so clean screwdriver used for actual screwdriving tasks around the house etc. Simplicity is not a solution to something that wasn't possible before, it's a way to make a task simpler, more convenient, and more time saving. Just saying ;)


Rev.
 
I use that DIY cleaner linked above too and I love it.

Welcome to kegging
1) Easiest and best way to carbonate is to first blow off your oxygen then set dial to 12 psi walk away for 4-7 days and enjoy. I don't prefer forced carbonated beer.

Kinda ticky tack but it's all force carbing (as opposed to natural carb with sugar). Sounds like you prefer set and forget over burst carbing.
:mug:
 
I have both types of kegs, actually three types of kegs. I am considering changing over to all 1/6th Sankey, if they went so expensive.
The reason is all the o-rings on the corny kegs, just more possible leak areas, maybe I am more worried about it than I need to be but after leaking a bottle of co2, I am always checking and double checking.
I don't mind any of the different style of kegs, although I don't have the space issue some have.
 
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