New False Bottom

[Rob2010SS]

I can never seem to get grain-free wort out of my cooler mash tun. No matter how long or slow I perform the vorlauf step for, I always seem to get grains in the boil kettle. So I've been thinking of trying a new false bottom.

I found this one but my concern is shown in the image below...

This was an image that someone posted who bought this one. I know my cooler has some irregularities on the sides like this. Grains are totally going to fall in there so how do you deal with that? Do you solve that with something like this and run the new false bottom with the bazooka screen simultaneously?

Any other suggestions on a good false bottom for a 10 gal cooler?

 

[brewbama]

I use a bazooka tube and a filter bag. I never have grain in the BK. I use a pump to recirculate.

View attachment 578092

 

[Pappers_]

You could keep your current false bottom and have your mashout and sparge flow through a strainer, like this

That's what I do. I vorlauf, then lay this strainer over the top of brew kettle and put the tube from my mashtun in the strainer.

 

[GoeHaarden]

Keep your false bottom. Add a Wilser bag (or other BIAB bag) on top as well...

That's what I do, and I never have a stuck mash or grain getting though!

 

[Rob2010SS]

Thank you all for the information...

Keep your false bottom. Add a Wilser bag (or other BIAB bag) on top as well...

That's what I do, and I never have a stuck mash or grain getting though!

So you're saying get a BIAB bag and use that in the cooler with the current false bottom? Would I have to do anything differently with the sparge or could I fly sparge as normal? Would this have an effect on efficiency?

 

[mirthfuldragon]

Thank you all for the information...So you're saying get a BIAB bag and use that in the cooler with the current false bottom? Would I have to do anything differently with the sparge or could I fly sparge as normal? Would this have an effect on efficiency?

I mash in a bag in a cooler in winter. If anything, BIAB with a very fine crush could boost your efficiency. Sparge is the same, plus you can pull up the bag and let it drain after, which can also help your efficiency.

During the summer, I skip the mash tun entirely.

 

[VVbrewery]

Keep your false bottom. Add a Wilser bag (or other BIAB bag) on top as well...

That's what I do, and I never have a stuck mash or grain getting though!

Not to hijack the thread but... I was given a 10 gallon cooler with a false bottom. I haven't used it yet but after reading about how well they work I ordered a bag from Brew Bag for it. I've been wondering if it would be better leave the FB in when using it or removing it. It seems to me that the FB would help to spread out the area the wort drains out of the bag helping it to drain faster (I batch sparge) and maybe filter better. I know it would leave leave a bit more wort in the cooler but I've never been one to worry about efficiency and don't mind adding a few extra handfuls of grain to make up for it. Any thoughts?

To the OP: you could take some silicon tubing (3/8"?), split it lengthwise and use it as a gasket around the edge. Might make for a tight fit in the cooler though.

 

[VVbrewery]

Well while I was typing it seems my question was answered. Got to learn to type faster!

 

[GoeHaarden]

So you're saying get a BIAB bag and use that in the cooler with the current false bottom? Would I have to do anything differently with the sparge or could I fly sparge as normal? Would this have an effect on efficiency?

Correct. I kind of had the same dilemma a few years ago, and I didn't want to drop $100 on a fancy false bottom. So I just kept my cheap domed false bottom, and actually bought a cheap like $7 bag from morebeer. Worked great! Just recently upgraded to a Wilser bag and the mesh is crazy tight. Almost like a filter, nothing is getting through. Honestly, you could probably do a BIAB crush and probably boost your efficiency.

Up until this year, I was using a fancy RIMS with re-circulation and I didn't notice any change in efficiency with it then and I haven't noticed any change now. I just batch sparge in a cooler now and I never get grain in the vorlauf.

 

[Rob2010SS]

Correct. I kind of had the same dilemma a few years ago, and I didn't want to drop $100 on a fancy false bottom. So I just kept my cheap domed false bottom, and actually bought a cheap like $7 bag from morebeer. Worked great! Just recently upgraded to a Wilser bag and the mesh is crazy tight. Almost like a filter, nothing is getting through. Honestly, you could probably do a BIAB crush and probably boost your efficiency.

Up until this year, I was using a fancy RIMS with re-circulation and I didn't notice any change in efficiency with it then and I haven't noticed any change now. I just batch sparge in a cooler now and I never get grain in the vorlauf.

I did just check out the Wilser BIAB bags. I think I might give this a go. This will be cheaper than buying a new false bottom.

 

[kevin58]

Simple and common solution... get yourself some high heat silicone tubing long enough to wrap around the circumference of your false bottom... then slit it lengthwise to make a gasket. It will look something like the picture when done...

 

[ApolloSimcoe]

How much grain is getting through? Lots? Little? Batch sparging or fly? If its lots then you need to correct the issue. If its just specks here and there its not an issue at all in my experience. This will all settle out if you whirlpool and if not the particles will settle in the fermenter. If tannins are on your mind you should be focusing more on pH.

 

[Rob2010SS]

How much grain is getting through? Lots? Little? Batch sparging or fly? If its lots then you need to correct the issue. If its just specks here and there its not an issue at all in my experience. This will all settle out if you whirlpool and if not the particles will settle in the fermenter. If tannins are on your mind you should be focusing more on pH.

I would say a fair amount of grain is getting through. If I had to guess to try and quantify it, hard to tell but maybe a half a cup, somewhere in there...? Again, hard to tell, but even after performing 20 min vorlauf nice and slow, I get consistent grain in the BK through the sparging process.

I'm fly sparging and it takes anywhere from 45 min to 1 hour to get 7.5 gallons in the BK.

I do focus on pH during the mash. I use Bru'n Water for every batch and plan out my pH and water additions and my pH is adjusted using acid malt.

Not getting grain free wort is simply my "brewing OCD" kicking in and being annoyed seeing grains floating around in the kettle.

 

[ApolloSimcoe]

I hear you on the OCD and you are getting more than you should. I would start with the high temp hose as Kevin suggested

 

[Rob2010SS]

I hear you on the OCD and you are getting more than you should. I would start with the high temp hose as Kevin suggested

And the high temp hose solution around the outside edge is for the pictured problem above, correct? That wouldn't do me any good on my current false bottom, I don't believe...

 

[ApolloSimcoe]

Did you state what False Bottom you were using...i missed that part

 

[Rob2010SS]

It's because I didn't state that. It's the false bottom that comes with this kit. Here's a picture of it...

 

[day_trippr]

fwiw, you could try using 1/8" wall thickness silicone tubing with a length-wise slit placed over the FB rim as a gasket. That's been done before...

Cheers!

 

[wilserbrewer]

Just my biased opinion here, I feel false bottoms are a carry over from mimicking commercial breweries, I would choose a braid or bag over a FB any day.

Lots of particulates pass any FB.

 

[AZCoolerBrewer]

Just my biased opinion here, I feel false bottoms are a carry over from mimicking commercial breweries, I would choose a braid or bag over a FB any day.

Lots of particulates pass any FB.

I’m guessing you might have a bias against false bottoms lol! In “A Treatise On The Brewing of Beer”. The author suggests using a false bottom in a copper pot for “homebrewing” way back in the 1700s, but then he also suggests having your servant dedicate his/her time to brewing and not have them do other tasks after mashing in.

 

[Comfort_Zone]

I use a hop spider to pull large particles out.

 

[KarmaCitra]

I took a smaller diameter silicone hose, sliced it lengthwise, and I wrap it on the edge of mine. Works like a seal, and works very well!

 

[seatazzz]

My mash tun is a repurposed 16g extract barrel. It's got both a bazooka and a fancy false bottom, and I use a bag as well. Overkill? Maybe. Grain bits in the BK? Never. And I recirculate as well. perfectly clear wort into the BK every time. My efficiency isn't great but I think it's the crush I'm getting.

 

[day_trippr]

Just my biased opinion here, I feel false bottoms are a carry over from mimicking commercial breweries, I would choose a braid or bag over a FB any day.

Lots of particulates pass any FB.

I use the stellar Blichmann FB in a 20g G1 kettle. With a recirculating mash I'm running clean wort in minutes and clear wort as soon as conversion is complete. There's zero chance of anything going around the FB, it's that well fitted to the kettle ledge. And anything that got through the FB becomes part of the grain bed in seconds.

What ends up in the boil kettle has zero grain particles.

FBs are still used because good ones work great and can be used virtually infinitely, without worries of wear-out or tears...

Cheers!

 

[MX1]

This

 

[wilserbrewer]

I use the stellar Blichmann FB in a 20g G1 kettle!

I agree completely!

My post was more in reference to most of the false bottoms people use and the issues frequently posted here on the forum.

The kettle ledge and false bottom keenly eliminates leakage around the edges of the FB, beautiful solution but pricey for some.