New bulkhead fitting design

[StainlessBrewing]

My new bulkhead setup! I used it this weekend with great success. I almost used the typical setup you see but this was cheaper, easy install and will be much easier to keep sanitized. Sorry for all of the watermarks.

This is the most common bulkhead fitting I've seen with the compression x male connector.

By zjosey at 2012-04-23
I found out this works great and is an all in one fitting.

By zjosey at 2012-04-23
After adding the gasket and stock collar it's ready for installation.

By zjosey at 2012-04-23
This fitting only requires a 3/4" hole to be drilled for installation. You can buy a step bit from Harbor Freight that goes up to 3/4" for $6-$8.00.

By zjosey at 2012-04-23

By zjosey at 2012-04-23
Installed and ready for action.

By zjosey at 2012-04-23

By zjosey at 2012-04-23

 

[StainlessBrewing]

This is what I was trying to avoid with the other style.

By zjosey at 2012-04-23
This setup.

By zjosey at 2012-04-23

 

[kevink]

You need to put the gasket on the outside for it to seal.

 

[StainlessBrewing]

You need to put the gasket on the outside for it to seal.

Nope. There's no need. Most bulkhead fittings don't use a gasket on the outside. Like I said, worked great this weekend.

 

[Bobby_M]

What is stopping liquid from chasing the threads under the interior nut? This is the only flaw that I see. Throwing the gasket on the outside would make it irrelevant as kevink said. I'm not saying that one install isn't sealed, but I wouldn't call it a done deal just yet.

 

[kevink]

Right on, Bobby. If the nut that spins on the male thread is on the inside, then the gasket needs to be on the outside. If the nut that spins is on the outside, then keep the gasket on the inside.

 

[StainlessBrewing]

I've seen threads (website threads) on the problems some have with that. If you look on the pictures above though, there are no threads by the NPT end of the fitting and the gasket where it will install on the kettle wall. There is about an 1/8" gap with no threads. I had to use a gasket on the outside for my cooler mash tun setup because of the thickness but there has been no need for it on a wall thickness of .49 - .065 on a keg. The threads where the gasket slides over are not NPT either so they are not as deep. If it makes one feel better they can always add one on the outside just to be safe. I'll do a few more batches and do an update. Getting it hot and cold, turning the valve a bunch might make a difference but the fitting fits real snug in the 3/4" hole that was drilled out and it seems pretty stout when assembled.

 

[StainlessBrewing]

I see what you're saying now. Moving the gasket from the inside to the outside would take any worries away one might have. I was just trying to avoid as much heat as possible from the burner by keeping it inside.

 

[jonos7]

I've never really woried about sanitizeing thoes parts because I'm boiling for so long is this going to mess me up sometime? I scrub everything with a wire pad then rinse and call it good, am I selling myself short?

 

[dutchoven]

That's pretty slick. Do you offer a 5/8" compression option?

 

[StainlessBrewing]

I've never really woried about sanitizeing thoes parts because I'm boiling for so long is this going to mess me up sometime? I scrub everything with a wire pad then rinse and call it good, am I selling myself short?

Not at all. Tons of people are using them with no problems at all. This fitting can be used on plenty of other areas that don't reach boiling temps as well that you may want to avoid having spaces for gunk to build up. I like it because of the price, no threads for media to come in contact with and it's simplicity.

 

[StainlessBrewing]

That's pretty slick. Do you offer a 5/8" compression option?

We do. I think they are only a $1.00 more. 5/8" comp x 1/2" mpt right? I'll have to look at the bore of the 1/2" MPT size to see if it's any bigger for the 5/8". If not, there's no advantage in using a 5/8" dip tube if it's going to reduce back down to the .430 ID (1/2" tube).

 

[Golddiggie]

I've simply used a NPT to compression fitting direct into a ball valve in my keggle. Works without issue, not complicated, and easy to get... I also have a washer and o-ring on either side of the wall to ensure no leaks happen. That's on top of the Teflon tape on the treads of course.

 

[StainlessBrewing]

The 5/8" x 1/2" MPT does have a bigger bore. The 1/2 x 1/2 has and ID of about .41 and the 5/8" jumps up to .47 on the 1/2" mpt side.

 

[StainlessBrewing]

I've simply used a NPT to compression fitting direct into a ball valve in my keggle. Works without issue, not complicated, and easy to get... I also have a washer and o-ring on either side of the wall to ensure no leaks happen. That's on top of the Teflon tape on the treads of course.

Good point. There's plenty of threads left over, it would save you about $10 and would be more compact. You would think a lot of people would be doing it this way with there herms setup. Way less fittings and not as bulky.

 

[Bobby_M]

Using tube adapter fittings, whether male or female, NPT as the thru-fitting itself is only a challenge because the machined hex portion is pretty much as small as it can be and doesn't provide much flat surface for the gasket. The types that work out well are when the tube diameter it is meant for is much larger than the NPT size. For example, look at how large the hex is on a 3/4" tube to 3/8" male NPT. When it's 1/2 to 1/2, the best solution I've found is to silver solder a washer to the hex for an absolutely foolproof seal.

For those that can do this on their own, it's viable. Frankly, the labor involved doesn't make it particularly viable as a product.

I know if the gasket ID is small enough, and the vessel hole is not oversized, I can get a plain male adapter to seal. The problem is selling them for that purpose and having a customer support nightmare ;-)

 

[StainlessBrewing]

Using tube adapter fittings, whether male or female, NPT as the thru-fitting itself is only a challenge because the machined hex portion is pretty much as small as it can be and doesn't provide much flat surface for the gasket. The types that work out well are when the tube diameter it is meant for is much larger than the NPT size. For example, look at how large the hex is on a 3/4" tube to 3/8" male NPT. When it's 1/2 to 1/2, the best solution I've found is to silver solder a washer to the hex for an absolutely foolproof seal.

For those that can do this on their own, it's viable. Frankly, the labor involved doesn't make it particularly viable as a product.

I know if the gasket ID is small enough, and the vessel hole is not oversized, I can get a plain male adapter to seal. The problem is selling them for that purpose and having a customer support nightmare ;-)

Ahhh...I see exactly what you're talking about.

By zjosey at 2012-04-24

The bulkhead fitting gives you .187 3/16 of an inch to play with. Plenty of room for a nice tight seal.

By zjosey at 2012-04-24

By zjosey at 2012-04-24

 

[StainlessBrewing]

Love these things. I currently have my drain valve on this bulkhead with no gasket. Two sessions with no leaks so far and don't see it changing anytime soon.

 

[duckredbeard]

I use this type of fitting in all of my brewing vessels. Mine are Swagelok SS-810-11-8. Identical and interchangeable with the ones offered by StainlessBrewing. I added an extra jamnut on the ones that get turned during brew day. Kettle pickup, both fittings in the HLT (pickup and return). I work where we have a tube bending shop, so I can get 1/2 od 304 stainless all day. Bent in any shape. Photos coming in a few minutes.

I love these fittings and how they are so versatile, if you have access to the tubing.

 

[duckredbeard]

Inside the kettle

 

[duckredbeard]

Inside the kettle. The lower pickup gets rotated during cast to keep it above the trub until the last of the sweet wort is drawn out.

The upper is the whirlpool return. Using a March 809 gets it spinning pretty good after 8 minutes.