New Brutus with mods

[insp79]

 

[Snake10]

B,
Your rig is looking sic good! You are getting soooooo close. I can't wait to see it finished. Brewing weather has been good. 20 gallons in the fermenters this week. Keep up the push!
Bartman

 

[insp79]

I am starting plumb the vessels. I am considering making a HEX coil for the HLT and the Boiler. (DITCHES)
Trying to decide on the fittings, and such is overwhelming.
I also need to finish wiring the control panel.
I have yet to decide on what to automate.
PID # 1 will control the burner beneath the HLT
PID # 2. Should I control one of the pumps? Based on the output of the HERMs coil temp?
PID #3 will be used for boiler info and chilling info. Should it control the burner?

 

[insp79]

Made a little progress this week. Installed most of the inboard water filtration plumbing.

 

[jcav]

Amazing rig! I was wondering if you were able to test the raised bracket you made to allow the hot gasses to escape and if it worked or not? Really nice system you got going. I am enjoying following your progress!

Best of luck!

John

 

[insp79]

Amazing rig! I was wondering if you were able to test the raised bracket you made to allow the hot gasses to escape and if it worked or not? Really nice system you got going. I am enjoying following your progress!

Best of luck!

John

Thanks John! I have not fired the burners yet. Instill need to finish wiring the control panel ( specifically the PIDs)

 

[insp79]

Thermowells for RTD thermocouples.

 

[insp79]

Working on the kettles today.
I formed 50' of 5/8" copper tubing to a 12" diameter using a forklift propane tank as a form.

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

To use the Auber PID to control multiple items:
Use a mechanical relay with multiple contacts.

The wiring sample that comes with the Auber PID for heating is incorrect (page 5, figure 12).
It shows the 24VAC being wired to the N.O. contact (terminals 13 & 14), which would cause the heat to come on when the set temperature is reached. The correct wiring is the N.C. Contact (11 & 13), which has the heat cycle running until the set temperature is reached.

BTW: very nice build

 

[insp79]

I plan on splitting the coil in half. One coil for the HLT and one for the boiler. The two kettles will be mirrors of each other. I will be able to pump boiled wort from boiler through the coil in the HLT and Ice Water from the HLT through the coil in the boiler. (DITCHES)
I am going to try and keep the coils below the 5 gallon mark. Liquids will enter the top of the coil and drain from the bottom.

 

[insp79]

To use the Auber PID to control multiple items:
Use a mechanical relay with multiple contacts.

The wiring sample that comes with the Auber PID for heating is incorrect (page 5, figure 12).
It shows the 24VAC being wired to the N.O. contact (terminals 13 & 14), which would cause the heat to come on when the set temperature is reached. The correct wiring is the N.C. Contact (11 & 13), which has the heat cycle running until the set temperature is reached.

BTW: very nice build

I wired the gas valves to the NC (11 & 13).
After I get the system tuned and figure out how to use it to brew beer, I might automate the pumps during the chilling process.
Thanks for the input HoppyGuy.

 

[Snake10]

Bryan,
Looks like your extremely close. Any fire up date yet? I'm brewing tomm morning. A 11gallon batch blue moon clone (for the chicks) to round out my selection. If your bored come on up. 9 ish til done.
Bartman

 

[MaxOut]

Been watching your build and you have done amazing work with excellent attention to detail. You have a really nice set up and you must be stoked to break it in!!

I like the idea of the DITCHES configuration my only concern would be having to clean the outside of the boiler coil? Are you planning to have it easily removable? I know I can't get my hand behind my coil inside the HLT and would hate to have to clean hops or trub off it.

I have a three kettle two pump HERMS and decided to use a large coil to fill the entire HLT. I circulate wort through the hex coil to maintain mash temps at the MLT, then I move the MLT out to the HLT out and use the HLT water for sparge and it flushes the coil prior to cool. I empty the remaining sparge water from HLT during the boil and replace with ice for cool. I cool 7 gallons in 10-15 min to 50 degrees and will melt most of the ice. Wort never touches the inside of the HLT so it is one kettle that needs little to no cleaning at the end of the day. I just add Saniclean to the melted ice water and recalculate through all lines hex coil, pumps and all that is left to clean is the MLT and BK. Not a sermon just a though. Good luck with your build!!

 

[insp79]

Been watching your build and you have done amazing work with excellent attention to detail. You have a really nice set up and you must be stoked to break it in!!
I haven't brewed beer since April. I can't wait tidied this thing up.
I like the idea of the DITCHES configuration my only concern would be having to clean the outside of the boiler coil? Are you planning to have it easily removable? I know I can't get my hand behind my coil inside the HLT and would hate to have to clean hops or trub off it.
I hate the idea of cleaning anything. I do like the idea of reducing brew time. I have a Shiron plate that I was planning to use during chill, but I have no room for it to be installed. I might try the first few brews without the DITCHES, but I really like it.

I have a three kettle two pump HERMS and decided to use a large coil to fill the entire HLT. I circulate wort through the hex coil to maintain mash temps at the MLT, then I move the MLT out to the HLT out and use the HLT water for sparge and it flushes the coil prior to cool. I empty the remaining sparge water from HLT during the boil and replace with ice for cool. I cool 7 gallons in 10-15 min to 50 degrees and will melt most of the ice. Wort never touches the inside of the HLT so it is one kettle that needs little to no cleaning at the end of the day. I just add Saniclean to the melted ice water and recalculate through all lines hex coil, pumps and all that is left to clean is the MLT and BK. Not a sermon just a though. Good luck with your build!!

I like your brewery, and I appreciate your input, and advice. Without the help of HBT, I would be flying solo. Thank you.

 

[insp79]

Bryan,
Looks like your extremely close. Any fire up date yet? I'm brewing tomm morning. A 11gallon batch blue moon clone (for the chicks) to round out my selection. If your bored come on up. 9 ish til done.
Bartman

Hey Bart,
I'd like to show my brother how your system works. Not sure if I can make it in the morning.
How did the Black IPA come out? Your brew house is awesome. Thank you for your help.

 

[Snake10]

Byan,
Just finished brewing. My system worked way to well today, 88% eff. My recipe was for 80 %. It will be drier than I thought. The black IPA is still conditioning. Sampling taste just like a deschutes hop in the dark. Its awesome so far. I will carb it this week. I'll have all 4 taps going soon. Tell your brother to get ready for some serious brew.
Bart

 

[insp79]

Finally tested the control panel today. Then I promptly removed it from the brewstand to find all of the problems.
When main power was turned on, two of my 24VAC Gas valves opened (click)
The switches were off.
After searching the circuit, I found continuity through J2 PINS 11 & 13 (NC) on the two Auber PIDs which were wired to control the gas valves.
As mentioned earlier the wiring diagram was incorrect.
I changed it to 13 & 14 and solved the problem. although this should be for a NO valve.

All of PIDs lit up, I have not connected the thermisters.
The valve for the water filter worked as well.
Hopefully we will have ignition soon.

 

[insp79]

Today was Thermister Day. I finally installed the connectors and thermal protection.
I had an open circuit in the panel connector.


Luckily all I had to do was remove 4 screws from the panel and resolved a wire.
Here are the thermisters. They are ready to be installed into the thermowells.



The panel is ready.



Maybe I can finish the gas manifold the week, and test the burners



I was planning to work on the kettle plumbing this week, but I got sidetracked.

 

[insp79]

Getting closer to brew day! Redesign the mounts for the pumps.











And installed a GFI plug box. This is where the power cord plugs in to the stand.



Also routed the gas valve wires.



And finished the fresh water supply.

 

[mikelikesit2000]

Great job so far. I love the tippy dump, and I am going to mimic your design on my brutus. Subscribed!!

 

[insp79]

Yesterday, I attempted to TIG weld a 1/2" coupler to a piece of stainless steel. It was ugly. I actually melted the coupler trying fill a hole in the steel.
Then I found the thread on HBT about soldering stainless. So I tried it. It works great.
Here is my quick tutorial in pics.
Drill hole 1" dia. using a step drill lubed with wax.


Remove any burrs and polish the area.



This is a mandrel press made from a bolt and large washers. Then grind down a coupler to make a point on one side.








Insert the bolt through the hole with the mandrel.



Then tighten the nut until the mandrel squeezes through.







Here is the result. This will give more surface area to solder to.



My couplers are turned down 0.030" to create a lip.



Coat the surfaces to be solders with liquid flux. This is basically muriatic acid. Be careful not to inhale any fumes or smoke while soldering. It's Nasty stuff.



Heat the fitting and briefly until the silver solder melts.
remove flame.


Ensure that the solder is absorbed all the way around the fitting. Then cool with wet towel. Be careful not to disrupt the solder puddle, it is still liquid. Stainless will hold the high heat much longer than copper.





Then clean up the area by buffing with high speed grinder and scotch-bright pad.



Looks good and lasts a long time.







This breif summary is what I learned from the 100+ page soldering stainless sticky.
Give it a try. It makes a strong clean joint.

 

[insp79]

The HLT / HERMES plumbing is started.







Things are getting crowded.

 

[Snake10]

Bryan,
Your rig looks done! I'm ready to see it work. Get it out of the hangar and let it fly. Question: Do you have any of those mandrels for sale? That "swaged look" is awesome.
Bart

 

[insp79]

I ordered the mash tun false bottom from JayBird. I cannot wait for it to arrive.
NorCal Brewing Solutions can make about anything you need for a false bottom in the Mash Tun.
Here is a pic of the design:

 

[insp79]

The HLT is plumbed with the HERMES coil.

The coil is 14" diameter 5/8" copper tubing. I made three straps by hammering a 1/4" tube flat, and soldered them onto the coil. This made the coil quite rigid.



I installed a diptube for the drain.



Then I installed the coil with flared couplers and 90 deg. street fittings.



Here is the HLT plumbed and ready.





The only thing missing is the sight gauge.

 

[insp79]

Just received the False Bottom from Jaybird. Should be installed tomorrow.







Nice work!!

 

[insp79]

Installed False Bottom today



The Mash Tun, and the HLT are ready.



Tomorrow I should finish the boiler.

 

[Miracletripper]

That's way clean.

 

[unclephilly]

That's also way cool.

 

[insp79]

Finally got the brewery home, and stored beneath the fermenter.
All I have left before brewing is:
•Making the hoses.
•Wiring the pumps.
•Mounting the sight glass tubes.
Then calibrating the system begins
First brew day in 2 weeks.