New Brutus with mods

[insp79]

I am using a sheet 0.063" thick 2024-t3 aluminum for the switch panel.
The transformer, and terminal blocks etc will fit inside the diamond plate shelf.

 

[ccrum]

Just curious why you didn't go with a BCS-460 instead of all the manual switches and controllers? I find my processes can be much better controlled using the BCS and I can use my Android phone, net book, or laptop as the control panel. Don't get me wrong, I like your rig, but if it's better beer you are after, process control can be key.

 

[insp79]

Just curious why you didn't go with a BCS-460 instead of all the manual switches and controllers? I find my processes can be much better controlled using the BCS and I can use my Android phone, net book, or laptop as the control panel. Don't get me wrong, I like your rig, but if it's better beer you are after, process control can be key.

Alright, see, I could easily build this thing for the rest of the year. That BCS 460 is cool!!
I'll have to check into it.

 

[insp79]

I finally finished filing the holes for my switch panel. What a PITA!!












Hopefully I can figure out where all of the wires go.

 

[rekoob]

Nice job, looking good.

 

[insp79]

Nice job, looking good.

Thank you!

 

[Cosper123]

Wow man that is awesome. You are certainly putting a lot of thought and effort into this and it shows. Can't wait to see the finished product.

 

[insp79]

Maybe it's time fore to learn how to TIG weld.

 

[insp79]

I have formed angles from 302 1/2 hard SS and cut the ends at 45 deg corners.
I am trying to learn how to TIG weld. Otherwise, I have to wait for my friend at work to TIG it up.



I have to make cutouts for the burner supports. Then I am going to support the angles by 3/8" blocks with countersunk SS screws.
I made some blocks that will sit on top of the of the angles, they will also help support and center the kettles.
I hope these inserts will prevent flame damage on my chrome powdercoat.
What do you think?

I never thought building a brewstand would take so long. At this rate, I should have beer by November.

 

[insp79]

i have formed angles from 302 1/2 hard ss and cut the ends at 45 deg corners.
I am trying to learn how to tig weld. Otherwise, i have to wait for my friend at work to tig it up.

<img src="https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=32833"/>

i have to make cutouts for the burner supports. Then i am going to support the angles by 3/8" blocks with countersunk ss screws.
I made some blocks that will sit on top of the of the angles, they will also help support and center the kettles.
I hope these inserts will prevent flame damage on my chrome powdercoat.
What do you think?

I never thought building a brewstand would take so long. At this rate, i should have beer by november.

 

[ETOHonboard]

sub'd

 

[Snake10]

B,
I'm diggin your stainless. Looking better and better as the days go by. Looks like your almost finished except for the wiring. I can't wait for you to fire that rig up!
Bart

 

[insp79]

B,
I'm diggin your stainless. Looking better and better as the days go by. Looks like your almost finished except for the wiring. I can't wait for you to fire that rig up!
Bart

Thanks Bart for your help.
I have been working on the burner guards to protect the powder coat.

 

[insp79]

Stainless sheet-metal is a pain to work with, but it looks good. It can take the direct flame, without discoloring, warping or corrosion.
.
This is the Mash Tun burner


It is difficult to make the cutouts for my burner support brackets.



The kettle will sit on these blocks to raise it 3/8" above the angles and allow the flame/heat to escape without a blockage.



I hope this saves the powder coat.

 

[Snake10]

B,
Your inserts look awesome. My only idea for covering the supports would be to, grab some more angle, the stuff your using. Cut it the size of your support, flip it 90 degrees so that it now looks like the roof of a house (an inverted V ) and weld that to your insert. The idea being the inverted V top would be flush with the top of your insert. The angle created underneath ( area over the burner support) by the inverted V would be enough to shield the heat.

Bart

 

[Dude]

This is incredible! Love the dump system design.

 

[insp79]

This is incredible! Love the dump system design.

Thanks Dude!

 

[insp79]

Lots of work done on the control panel this week. I'm about 75% done with the wiring.
I have some pics:




The panel is resting on top of the brewstand it will be mounted under the front lip.
I have finished the heat shield








It is made from .050 SS sheet. The boxes are surrounding the "tippy dump" arm hinge points.

I am also adding an insulation material, which is fire proof.




I tested it using a Xikar dual torch cigar lighter. It will not burn.

 

[insp79]

Looking at the bottom LH side of the panel, I installed the power plug, and the Pump #1 plug. Next to that are the QDs for the gas control valves, and the "add water" solenoid valve.



Here is the back side of the plugs.









Then you see the 24 VAC transformer




Then the 120 VAC BUS Bar
Then the switch panel

 

[insp79]

Then the 24 volt BUS BAR



Pump #2 has a plug on the bottom RH side as well.

I haven't determined how to wire the Auber PID's yet.
I have 3 on the panel.












PID #1 will control the HLT gas valve.
PID #2 will control the ??????????
( not sure)
I want it to control one of the pumps to move the mash wort through the HERMs coil.
PID #3 will be used during the chill, and whirlpool. I want a pump to move wort through the HERMs coil, which will then be chilled with ice, and maybe a plate chiller as well.
I also want to use it to control the Gas valve for the boiler.
This is where I am confused, and have spent endless hours searching for answers.
What are the options for J1 and J2?
Can I control a burner, and a pump from a single Auber PID?

I also installed the gas valves this week.



I need to make the gas supply lines, and the pilot tubes. I just realized they were not included with the valve or the pilot mounts.
I am planning to use an ASCO valve for the MLT burner, and a DIY pilot light. This burner might not be used very often.

 

[insp79]

 

[Snake10]

B,
Your rig is looking sic good! You are getting soooooo close. I can't wait to see it finished. Brewing weather has been good. 20 gallons in the fermenters this week. Keep up the push!
Bartman

 

[insp79]

I am starting plumb the vessels. I am considering making a HEX coil for the HLT and the Boiler. (DITCHES)
Trying to decide on the fittings, and such is overwhelming.
I also need to finish wiring the control panel.
I have yet to decide on what to automate.
PID # 1 will control the burner beneath the HLT
PID # 2. Should I control one of the pumps? Based on the output of the HERMs coil temp?
PID #3 will be used for boiler info and chilling info. Should it control the burner?

 

[insp79]

Made a little progress this week. Installed most of the inboard water filtration plumbing.

 

[jcav]

Amazing rig! I was wondering if you were able to test the raised bracket you made to allow the hot gasses to escape and if it worked or not? Really nice system you got going. I am enjoying following your progress!

Best of luck!

John

 

[insp79]

Amazing rig! I was wondering if you were able to test the raised bracket you made to allow the hot gasses to escape and if it worked or not? Really nice system you got going. I am enjoying following your progress!

Best of luck!

John

Thanks John! I have not fired the burners yet. Instill need to finish wiring the control panel ( specifically the PIDs)

 

[insp79]

Thermowells for RTD thermocouples.

 

[insp79]

Working on the kettles today.
I formed 50' of 5/8" copper tubing to a 12" diameter using a forklift propane tank as a form.

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

To use the Auber PID to control multiple items:
Use a mechanical relay with multiple contacts.

The wiring sample that comes with the Auber PID for heating is incorrect (page 5, figure 12).
It shows the 24VAC being wired to the N.O. contact (terminals 13 & 14), which would cause the heat to come on when the set temperature is reached. The correct wiring is the N.C. Contact (11 & 13), which has the heat cycle running until the set temperature is reached.

BTW: very nice build

 

[insp79]

I plan on splitting the coil in half. One coil for the HLT and one for the boiler. The two kettles will be mirrors of each other. I will be able to pump boiled wort from boiler through the coil in the HLT and Ice Water from the HLT through the coil in the boiler. (DITCHES)
I am going to try and keep the coils below the 5 gallon mark. Liquids will enter the top of the coil and drain from the bottom.

 

[insp79]

To use the Auber PID to control multiple items:
Use a mechanical relay with multiple contacts.

The wiring sample that comes with the Auber PID for heating is incorrect (page 5, figure 12).
It shows the 24VAC being wired to the N.O. contact (terminals 13 & 14), which would cause the heat to come on when the set temperature is reached. The correct wiring is the N.C. Contact (11 & 13), which has the heat cycle running until the set temperature is reached.

BTW: very nice build

I wired the gas valves to the NC (11 & 13).
After I get the system tuned and figure out how to use it to brew beer, I might automate the pumps during the chilling process.
Thanks for the input HoppyGuy.

 

[Snake10]

Bryan,
Looks like your extremely close. Any fire up date yet? I'm brewing tomm morning. A 11gallon batch blue moon clone (for the chicks) to round out my selection. If your bored come on up. 9 ish til done.
Bartman

 

[MaxOut]

Been watching your build and you have done amazing work with excellent attention to detail. You have a really nice set up and you must be stoked to break it in!!

I like the idea of the DITCHES configuration my only concern would be having to clean the outside of the boiler coil? Are you planning to have it easily removable? I know I can't get my hand behind my coil inside the HLT and would hate to have to clean hops or trub off it.

I have a three kettle two pump HERMS and decided to use a large coil to fill the entire HLT. I circulate wort through the hex coil to maintain mash temps at the MLT, then I move the MLT out to the HLT out and use the HLT water for sparge and it flushes the coil prior to cool. I empty the remaining sparge water from HLT during the boil and replace with ice for cool. I cool 7 gallons in 10-15 min to 50 degrees and will melt most of the ice. Wort never touches the inside of the HLT so it is one kettle that needs little to no cleaning at the end of the day. I just add Saniclean to the melted ice water and recalculate through all lines hex coil, pumps and all that is left to clean is the MLT and BK. Not a sermon just a though. Good luck with your build!!

 

[insp79]

Been watching your build and you have done amazing work with excellent attention to detail. You have a really nice set up and you must be stoked to break it in!!
I haven't brewed beer since April. I can't wait tidied this thing up.
I like the idea of the DITCHES configuration my only concern would be having to clean the outside of the boiler coil? Are you planning to have it easily removable? I know I can't get my hand behind my coil inside the HLT and would hate to have to clean hops or trub off it.
I hate the idea of cleaning anything. I do like the idea of reducing brew time. I have a Shiron plate that I was planning to use during chill, but I have no room for it to be installed. I might try the first few brews without the DITCHES, but I really like it.

I have a three kettle two pump HERMS and decided to use a large coil to fill the entire HLT. I circulate wort through the hex coil to maintain mash temps at the MLT, then I move the MLT out to the HLT out and use the HLT water for sparge and it flushes the coil prior to cool. I empty the remaining sparge water from HLT during the boil and replace with ice for cool. I cool 7 gallons in 10-15 min to 50 degrees and will melt most of the ice. Wort never touches the inside of the HLT so it is one kettle that needs little to no cleaning at the end of the day. I just add Saniclean to the melted ice water and recalculate through all lines hex coil, pumps and all that is left to clean is the MLT and BK. Not a sermon just a though. Good luck with your build!!

I like your brewery, and I appreciate your input, and advice. Without the help of HBT, I would be flying solo. Thank you.

 

[insp79]

Bryan,
Looks like your extremely close. Any fire up date yet? I'm brewing tomm morning. A 11gallon batch blue moon clone (for the chicks) to round out my selection. If your bored come on up. 9 ish til done.
Bartman

Hey Bart,
I'd like to show my brother how your system works. Not sure if I can make it in the morning.
How did the Black IPA come out? Your brew house is awesome. Thank you for your help.

 

[Snake10]

Byan,
Just finished brewing. My system worked way to well today, 88% eff. My recipe was for 80 %. It will be drier than I thought. The black IPA is still conditioning. Sampling taste just like a deschutes hop in the dark. Its awesome so far. I will carb it this week. I'll have all 4 taps going soon. Tell your brother to get ready for some serious brew.
Bart

 

[insp79]

Finally tested the control panel today. Then I promptly removed it from the brewstand to find all of the problems.
When main power was turned on, two of my 24VAC Gas valves opened (click)
The switches were off.
After searching the circuit, I found continuity through J2 PINS 11 & 13 (NC) on the two Auber PIDs which were wired to control the gas valves.
As mentioned earlier the wiring diagram was incorrect.
I changed it to 13 & 14 and solved the problem. although this should be for a NO valve.

All of PIDs lit up, I have not connected the thermisters.
The valve for the water filter worked as well.
Hopefully we will have ignition soon.

 

[insp79]

Today was Thermister Day. I finally installed the connectors and thermal protection.
I had an open circuit in the panel connector.


Luckily all I had to do was remove 4 screws from the panel and resolved a wire.
Here are the thermisters. They are ready to be installed into the thermowells.



The panel is ready.



Maybe I can finish the gas manifold the week, and test the burners



I was planning to work on the kettle plumbing this week, but I got sidetracked.

 

[insp79]

Getting closer to brew day! Redesign the mounts for the pumps.











And installed a GFI plug box. This is where the power cord plugs in to the stand.



Also routed the gas valve wires.



And finished the fresh water supply.

 

[mikelikesit2000]

Great job so far. I love the tippy dump, and I am going to mimic your design on my brutus. Subscribed!!