New Brutus with mods

[rekoob]

very nice build.

 

[insp79]

very nice build.

Thank you! I'm looking forward to brewing beer with it this Fall.

 

[insp79]

I've attached a really crude grate idea that should be relatively simple to build. Basically, the strip supports the kettle, the rounds elevate the strip and the tabs keep it in place. I tried to minimize the amount of metal that would block the heat from escaping. Hope this helps get the creative juices flowing at least.

That is a simple fix. I might be able to do something like that.

 

[insp79]

If I add a block, that supports the kettle above the brew frame, it will allow the flames to escape freely. My powder coat is high temp, it should be able withstand the flames.
Here is a picture of the unfinished blocks:

 

[jcaudill]

It's usually the contact points that are the problems. For example, your kettle sits on the frame. The points where the kettle contacts the frame get super hot (hotter than even a high-temp powder coat is rated for - most are about 600 degrees) and eventually melt the powdercoat. Search around the forums and you'll find a few examples. I think those blocks will help prevent the frame from getting too hot - what I can't really tell you is if the blocks themselves might actually get hot enough to melt the coating.

 

[insp79]

I am thinking about going with this design. I can shape the blocks so that the flame flows past them smoothly, and with little resistance. If it does not work, how large of an area could possibly be affected?
I could tape it off, and paint it with high temp paint.
I think that my burner mounts are going to get charred anyway, no matter what I do. They will probably end up getting painted too.
Thanks for your help.

 

[jcaudill]

You never know unless you try that is for sure! You can be assured those area under your kettle will get all kinds of ugly But who cares!

 

[jcav]

Nice buiild so far, your quite the fabricator! I like your heat baffle, tippy dump, and those unusual kettles. You've got some great ideas. Keep the pics coming, I can't wait to see it when it's finished. Jaybird (vendor on this site) may be able to come up with a solution for fabricating a false bottom for those kettles.

Good Luck with the rest of your build!

John

 

[insp79]

Nice buiild so far, your quite the fabricator! I like your heat baffle, tippy dump, and those unusual kettles. You've got some great ideas. Keep the pics coming, I can't wait to see it when it's finished. Jaybird (vendor on this site) may be able to come up with a solution for fabricating a false bottom for those kettles.

Good Luck with the rest of your build!

John

Thanks John!
I enjoy working with metal. It seems like this brewery build is taking forever. I hope to finish it soon, so I can have a home brew.
I spoke with Jaybird about making the false bottom for the Mash Tun. I just haven't began working on the kettles yet. I still need to plan on my SS fittings, quick disconnects, HERMS coil, thermometers, etc.
Thanks!
Bryan

 

[insp79]

Started working on the control panel today. The control will reside in front of the MLT, instead of being mounted on a arm. This will help for storage purposes.
I cut the window in the diamond plate aluminum. I used a jigsaw, and cleaned the edges up with a high speed grinder.




The control panel layout includes the following:
•Keyed Master Switch
Power Switch
•Auber Temp Control for
(1) HLT
(2) Mash Tun
(3) Chiller (temp. ind. only)
•Burner over ride switches for
HLT
Mash
and 1 extra switch, possibly for boiler burner control
•Pump switch #1
•pump switch #2
•water solenoid valve.




I will begin cutting out for the switches tomorrow.
I will also make a door to cover the control panel, when not in use.

 

[insp79]

I am using a sheet 0.063" thick 2024-t3 aluminum for the switch panel.
The transformer, and terminal blocks etc will fit inside the diamond plate shelf.

 

[ccrum]

Just curious why you didn't go with a BCS-460 instead of all the manual switches and controllers? I find my processes can be much better controlled using the BCS and I can use my Android phone, net book, or laptop as the control panel. Don't get me wrong, I like your rig, but if it's better beer you are after, process control can be key.

 

[insp79]

Just curious why you didn't go with a BCS-460 instead of all the manual switches and controllers? I find my processes can be much better controlled using the BCS and I can use my Android phone, net book, or laptop as the control panel. Don't get me wrong, I like your rig, but if it's better beer you are after, process control can be key.

Alright, see, I could easily build this thing for the rest of the year. That BCS 460 is cool!!
I'll have to check into it.

 

[insp79]

I finally finished filing the holes for my switch panel. What a PITA!!












Hopefully I can figure out where all of the wires go.

 

[rekoob]

Nice job, looking good.

 

[insp79]

Nice job, looking good.

Thank you!

 

[Cosper123]

Wow man that is awesome. You are certainly putting a lot of thought and effort into this and it shows. Can't wait to see the finished product.

 

[insp79]

Maybe it's time fore to learn how to TIG weld.

 

[insp79]

I have formed angles from 302 1/2 hard SS and cut the ends at 45 deg corners.
I am trying to learn how to TIG weld. Otherwise, I have to wait for my friend at work to TIG it up.



I have to make cutouts for the burner supports. Then I am going to support the angles by 3/8" blocks with countersunk SS screws.
I made some blocks that will sit on top of the of the angles, they will also help support and center the kettles.
I hope these inserts will prevent flame damage on my chrome powdercoat.
What do you think?

I never thought building a brewstand would take so long. At this rate, I should have beer by November.

 

[insp79]

i have formed angles from 302 1/2 hard ss and cut the ends at 45 deg corners.
I am trying to learn how to tig weld. Otherwise, i have to wait for my friend at work to tig it up.

<img src="https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=32833"/>

i have to make cutouts for the burner supports. Then i am going to support the angles by 3/8" blocks with countersunk ss screws.
I made some blocks that will sit on top of the of the angles, they will also help support and center the kettles.
I hope these inserts will prevent flame damage on my chrome powdercoat.
What do you think?

I never thought building a brewstand would take so long. At this rate, i should have beer by november.

 

[ETOHonboard]

sub'd

 

[Snake10]

B,
I'm diggin your stainless. Looking better and better as the days go by. Looks like your almost finished except for the wiring. I can't wait for you to fire that rig up!
Bart

 

[insp79]

B,
I'm diggin your stainless. Looking better and better as the days go by. Looks like your almost finished except for the wiring. I can't wait for you to fire that rig up!
Bart

Thanks Bart for your help.
I have been working on the burner guards to protect the powder coat.

 

[insp79]

Stainless sheet-metal is a pain to work with, but it looks good. It can take the direct flame, without discoloring, warping or corrosion.
.
This is the Mash Tun burner


It is difficult to make the cutouts for my burner support brackets.



The kettle will sit on these blocks to raise it 3/8" above the angles and allow the flame/heat to escape without a blockage.



I hope this saves the powder coat.

 

[Snake10]

B,
Your inserts look awesome. My only idea for covering the supports would be to, grab some more angle, the stuff your using. Cut it the size of your support, flip it 90 degrees so that it now looks like the roof of a house (an inverted V ) and weld that to your insert. The idea being the inverted V top would be flush with the top of your insert. The angle created underneath ( area over the burner support) by the inverted V would be enough to shield the heat.

Bart

 

[Dude]

This is incredible! Love the dump system design.

 

[insp79]

This is incredible! Love the dump system design.

Thanks Dude!

 

[insp79]

Lots of work done on the control panel this week. I'm about 75% done with the wiring.
I have some pics:




The panel is resting on top of the brewstand it will be mounted under the front lip.
I have finished the heat shield








It is made from .050 SS sheet. The boxes are surrounding the "tippy dump" arm hinge points.

I am also adding an insulation material, which is fire proof.




I tested it using a Xikar dual torch cigar lighter. It will not burn.

 

[insp79]

Looking at the bottom LH side of the panel, I installed the power plug, and the Pump #1 plug. Next to that are the QDs for the gas control valves, and the "add water" solenoid valve.



Here is the back side of the plugs.









Then you see the 24 VAC transformer




Then the 120 VAC BUS Bar
Then the switch panel

 

[insp79]

Then the 24 volt BUS BAR



Pump #2 has a plug on the bottom RH side as well.

I haven't determined how to wire the Auber PID's yet.
I have 3 on the panel.












PID #1 will control the HLT gas valve.
PID #2 will control the ??????????
( not sure)
I want it to control one of the pumps to move the mash wort through the HERMs coil.
PID #3 will be used during the chill, and whirlpool. I want a pump to move wort through the HERMs coil, which will then be chilled with ice, and maybe a plate chiller as well.
I also want to use it to control the Gas valve for the boiler.
This is where I am confused, and have spent endless hours searching for answers.
What are the options for J1 and J2?
Can I control a burner, and a pump from a single Auber PID?

I also installed the gas valves this week.



I need to make the gas supply lines, and the pilot tubes. I just realized they were not included with the valve or the pilot mounts.
I am planning to use an ASCO valve for the MLT burner, and a DIY pilot light. This burner might not be used very often.