sicktght311
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I'm trying to track down my source of oxidation (or what i assume is oxidation). My NEIPAs come out incredible when out of the fermenter, and into the keg, and carbonated. The first couple of weeks they taste exactly as they should, and look exactly as they should. Within 3-4 weeks, they start dropping clearer and take more of a golden hazy color like an unfiltered blonde ale, than straw opaque NEIPA yellow. The flavor starts to mute a bit and takes on a sweeter, almost candied peach like taste. Definitely not as bright and tropical as when they come out. I havent tried swirling my keg yet in the event this isnt oxidation, but rather settling, but i doubt this is the case.
I thought my process was pretty damn O2 proof, but maybe i'm missing something. Those of you who make shelf stable NEIPAs, let me know your process.
Here's mine post boil (not going to get into Low Oxygen brewing, as yes it can help, but plenty of people and breweries are putting out solid NEIPAs without treating the pre-fermentation process differently than any other beer)
1) Wort is pumped into Chronical BME fermenter, yeast pitched, blow off cane + Silicone tubing into a jar of sanitizer
2) First Dryhop is typically day 2, and i dont take any O2 precautions here. Pop the lid, throw the hops in
3) 2nd Dryhop is usually either when i still have a few points left, so i quickly open the lid and drop them in.
3a) IF i'm post fermentation, i have a 3" Butterfly valve on top of my Chronical, which I close, remove the blow off cane, put on a 3" sight glass, with a 3" CO2 quick Disconnect plate on top. I fill the sight glass with my hop drop, put the top plate back on, purge with 2psi a number of times, then open the valve to drop the hops. Close the valve, remove the hop dropper, reinstall the blow off tube, slowly open the butterfly to let the excess co2 bubble throught he sanitizer jar, then let it continue to ferment and finish
4) Once ready for cold crash, i either drop the temp in 5 degree increments over a span of 24 hours until i reach the upper 30s. Doing so prevents suckback as no sanitizer makes it up the blowoff tube, therefore no air, unless maybe here is where i'm going wrong, and i'm leaking air in through somewhere else?.
4a) Occasionally if i'm quick crashing, i'll hook my 3" CO2 ball lock plate up to the valve at the top, and put 2-3psi on the fermenter during the crash, and then leave it connected until i transfer.
5) Once its time to transfer, i put the plate on the top, fill the fermenter to 2-3psi, and i'll typically dump trub into a bucket until it starts to run thinner, then i close up the dump port
6) I also dump about a pint worth of beer through the racking port to clean out the racking arm before transfer.
7) To pre-purge my kegs, i fill them to the top with sanitizer, connect co2 at around 15psi, burp the prv to clear the headspace, then i'll connect it to a line on my keezer, and open the tap into a bucket. This clears the keg of sanitizer, clears the serving line of any cleaner or anything left from a previous beer i might have just unhooked, and fills the keg with co2 as its emptying. I would assume this means the keg is fairly well purged of co2 since co2 was continually pushing the sanitizer out.
8) Once the keg is empty and ready, I put together my transfer line. It is a 1.5" Triclamp 100micron inline stainless strainer on the racking valve, to 1.5" Triclamp plate with hose barb, to 3/8" transfer hose, to keg quick disconnect. I will typically first connect the QD to the liquid port on the keg which vents the co2 pressure, and co2 purges the transfer line and strainer, pushing any o2 out.
9) once the keg purged of co2, i close the PRV, connect the transfer line to the racking valve, open the PRV on the top of the keg, and open the racking valve to start transferring. Remember the fermenter is constantly under 2-3psi so its a pressure transfer
10) Once i'm at my target fill weight for 4.8-5 gallons, i close the PRV, close the racking arm, disconnect the QD transfer line, then ill put the keg in my keezer, hook it up to around 30psi, fill and purge multiple times with the prv, and then I let it sit at 30psi for 24-36 hours to burst carbonate
11) After i'm done burst carbing, i'll drop the pressure to 12psi, and i'll pull the prv slowly to watch the pressure decrease but never fully empty. I'll pull it until it gets to aroudn 10psi and then you can hear the co2 tank on fillilng back up to that 12psi, so no oxygen should be getting in.
After that, i'm just connecting the liquid out post when its ready to go, and serving.
Where am i going wrong/???
I thought my process was pretty damn O2 proof, but maybe i'm missing something. Those of you who make shelf stable NEIPAs, let me know your process.
Here's mine post boil (not going to get into Low Oxygen brewing, as yes it can help, but plenty of people and breweries are putting out solid NEIPAs without treating the pre-fermentation process differently than any other beer)
1) Wort is pumped into Chronical BME fermenter, yeast pitched, blow off cane + Silicone tubing into a jar of sanitizer
2) First Dryhop is typically day 2, and i dont take any O2 precautions here. Pop the lid, throw the hops in
3) 2nd Dryhop is usually either when i still have a few points left, so i quickly open the lid and drop them in.
3a) IF i'm post fermentation, i have a 3" Butterfly valve on top of my Chronical, which I close, remove the blow off cane, put on a 3" sight glass, with a 3" CO2 quick Disconnect plate on top. I fill the sight glass with my hop drop, put the top plate back on, purge with 2psi a number of times, then open the valve to drop the hops. Close the valve, remove the hop dropper, reinstall the blow off tube, slowly open the butterfly to let the excess co2 bubble throught he sanitizer jar, then let it continue to ferment and finish
4) Once ready for cold crash, i either drop the temp in 5 degree increments over a span of 24 hours until i reach the upper 30s. Doing so prevents suckback as no sanitizer makes it up the blowoff tube, therefore no air, unless maybe here is where i'm going wrong, and i'm leaking air in through somewhere else?.
4a) Occasionally if i'm quick crashing, i'll hook my 3" CO2 ball lock plate up to the valve at the top, and put 2-3psi on the fermenter during the crash, and then leave it connected until i transfer.
5) Once its time to transfer, i put the plate on the top, fill the fermenter to 2-3psi, and i'll typically dump trub into a bucket until it starts to run thinner, then i close up the dump port
6) I also dump about a pint worth of beer through the racking port to clean out the racking arm before transfer.
7) To pre-purge my kegs, i fill them to the top with sanitizer, connect co2 at around 15psi, burp the prv to clear the headspace, then i'll connect it to a line on my keezer, and open the tap into a bucket. This clears the keg of sanitizer, clears the serving line of any cleaner or anything left from a previous beer i might have just unhooked, and fills the keg with co2 as its emptying. I would assume this means the keg is fairly well purged of co2 since co2 was continually pushing the sanitizer out.
8) Once the keg is empty and ready, I put together my transfer line. It is a 1.5" Triclamp 100micron inline stainless strainer on the racking valve, to 1.5" Triclamp plate with hose barb, to 3/8" transfer hose, to keg quick disconnect. I will typically first connect the QD to the liquid port on the keg which vents the co2 pressure, and co2 purges the transfer line and strainer, pushing any o2 out.
9) once the keg purged of co2, i close the PRV, connect the transfer line to the racking valve, open the PRV on the top of the keg, and open the racking valve to start transferring. Remember the fermenter is constantly under 2-3psi so its a pressure transfer
10) Once i'm at my target fill weight for 4.8-5 gallons, i close the PRV, close the racking arm, disconnect the QD transfer line, then ill put the keg in my keezer, hook it up to around 30psi, fill and purge multiple times with the prv, and then I let it sit at 30psi for 24-36 hours to burst carbonate
11) After i'm done burst carbing, i'll drop the pressure to 12psi, and i'll pull the prv slowly to watch the pressure decrease but never fully empty. I'll pull it until it gets to aroudn 10psi and then you can hear the co2 tank on fillilng back up to that 12psi, so no oxygen should be getting in.
After that, i'm just connecting the liquid out post when its ready to go, and serving.
Where am i going wrong/???