Need Help, brewing tomorrow

[TexasDroughtBrewery]

For 5.5 Gallons (20.82 L)
11.0 lb (4.99 kg) U.S. pale two-row malt
1.75 lb (0.79 kg) 10° L Munich malt
0.75 lb (340 g) 75° L crystal malt
Target Mash Temp: 150 for 60 mins
Do a 90 minute boil.
0.5 oz (14 g) Nugget pellets, 13% a.a. (60 min)
2.0 oz (28 g) Citra pellets, 12% a.a. (15 min)
1.5 oz (28 g) Mosaic pellets, 12% a.a. (15 min)
1.0 oz (28 g) Citra pellets, 12% a.a. (steep 10 min)
.5 oz (28 g) Mosaic pellets, 12% a.a. (steep 10 min)
Whirlfloc tablet (10 min)
White labs WLP001 California Ale yeast
Strike Water 4 1/2 gallons at 162 degrees

Original Gravity: 1.066
Final Gravity: 1.014
ABV: 7%
IBU: 60-66
SRM: 10
To brew this Fresh Squeezed IPA clone, Mash grains at 150°F for one hour. Do a 90 minute boil. Steep flameout hops for 10 minutes before chilling.



This is my first IPA and I already took out the dry hop step being as I have never done it before and I am not ready to go down that route. My question is this... for a 90 min boil what I learned is b/c you want more wort and more sparge so I can get to that OG or...7% ABV

So, if I do 4 1/2 gallons of strike water, that should reduce down to about...3 1/5 gallons. How much sparging water should I use? Another 3 gallons giving me 6 1/2 so that I can boil for the 90 mins and still have 5 gallons left?

Also I am willing to take any other IPA advise as this is my first IPA also, I am really excited about it.

 

[alexacuna]

I love dry hopping pale ales / IPA. It really give it a kick and isn't much more of a step as long as you've allowed fermentation to settle down prior to it. I've DH in primary and secondary.

Your water approximation sounds pretty solid. I usually shoot for 6.5 for a 5-ish gallon batch.

 

[TexasDroughtBrewery]

I love dry hopping pale ales / IPA. It really give it a kick and isn't much more of a step as long as you've allowed fermentation to settle down prior to it. I've DH in primary and secondary.

Your water approximation sounds pretty solid. I usually shoot for 6.5 for a 5-ish gallon batch.

Well, the reason I want to skip the dry hop is b/c I only have access to pellets and they would just dissolve and leave a green tint in the beer right?

 

[alexacuna]

A lot of people create a slurry with the dry hops with a cup or two of boiled water. They'll throw it in the secondary and rack their beer right on top of it. I've heard of people using grain (or muslin) bags to hold the hops. It'll sink to the bottom and be left behind when you transfer to a bottling bucket, similar to how you'll leave the trub from the primary behind. I'd say pellets are more manageable than whole leave hops, but I'm sure that's just in my experience.

 

[Dirt_McGirt]

Well, the reason I want to skip the dry hop is b/c I only have access to pellets and they would just dissolve and leave a green tint in the beer right?

No, I don't think that's a thing. A recent IPA of mine was dryhopped over 12 days, 2 stages with a total of something like 2.5 oz of pellet hops. They break up, float initially, then eventually settle to the bottom with any other debris. No discoloration, at all. And if you're still worried about it, you can always place them in a muslin bag that's been soaked in starsan, and suspend it in your fermenter via a sanitized length of dental floss.

Dry hopping is not that big of a deal. It's probably one of the simpler conditioning operations you can do.

 

[TexasDroughtBrewery]

Good advice, thanks guys. I honestly just didn't know but figured there would have to be more too it b/c iv seen dry hopping equipment before.

 

[RM-MN]

Good advice, thanks guys. I honestly just didn't know but figured there would have to be more too it b/c iv seen dry hopping equipment before.

I don't really think that there is any dry hopping equipment. When the ferment is done, open the fermenter and dump the hops in. Wait a week and you're ready to bottle or keg. That simple.

Sometimes my hops don't settle out like I want, expecially with leaf hops. To solve that I sanitize a gallon size paint strainer bag and wrap that over the siphon and hold it on with a rubber band.

 

[ViciousFishes]

I've been dry hopping in the keg with my last couple of batches and it's really brought my beers to life.

I have a paint strainer-type bag I got from my LHBS, a few stainless washers to add weight and some unflavored, waxed dental floss. These get boiled and sprayed with starsan.

After racking from primary to keg, I drop some hops in the bag with the washers, tie it off with enough floss to hold the bag in suspension 3/4 down to the bottom of the keg and leave the end of the floss wedged through the keg's lid. After pressurizing, I turn the keg upside/rightside a few times to saturate the hops and start diffusion of hop oils through the beer. Then, it's just a matter of waiting (which is the hardest part).

It's really easy, takes no time and makes a marked improvement in my beers.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Lots have success also whirlpooling the hops at lesser temps, say 160-180 fwiw.

Some wouldn't do a 15 min at all, but would add at 5 or flame out.

 

[TexasDroughtBrewery]

I did end up adding some hops at flameout thanks for all the advice. The beer so far turned out great I tasted the wert and I really like what I've got so far. Also I hit the projected gravity!! View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1454255916.369948.jpg

 

[TexasDroughtBrewery]

I also ended up double pitching S-05 and putting the beer on a blow off.

 

[JimRausch]

Sounds like you done good Tex!

 

[TexasDroughtBrewery]

Well, its been fermenting for a week now and I've decided I am going for it. I got some more hops to add a dry hop addition to the beer. Because I really want this one to be good and every thing I read says the dry hop addition really brings the beer to life. I will keep you guys posted.

 

[RM-MN]

Well, its been fermenting for a week now and I've decided I am going for it. I got some more hops to add a dry hop addition to the beer. Because I really want this one to be good and every thing I read says the dry hop addition really brings the beer to life. I will keep you guys posted.

Use your hydrometer to make sure the beer is done fermenting. You don't want to waste hops if fermentation is still going on. My beers usually sit for 2 weeks or more before I dry hop.:rockin:

 

[alexacuna]

I've been waiting about 10 days before DH and it's been good. We'll all have different results, though. Brew on!

 

[TexasDroughtBrewery]

I am actually surprised I didn't need the blow off at all. The karusen didn't even go that high up in carboy. I will check the gravity tonight I have a feeling it should be done and ill add the hops. I can't wait to try this one. I will keep everyone informed on the results.

 

[Rhetorik]

I am actually surprised I didn't need the blow off at all. The karusen didn't even go that high up in carboy. I will check the gravity tonight I have a feeling it should be done and ill add the hops. I can't wait to try this one. I will keep everyone informed on the results.

Best way to make sure the fermentation is complete is to take two gravity samples 2-3 days apart. If there's no variation in the readings, you're good to go and add the dry hops. 5-7 days of dryhopping is normally all you need (my experience, others prefer shorter dryhop period and others will suggest longer!)

You don't want to do the dryhop addition while fermentation is ongoing as that beautiful hop aroma will be going straight out the blowoff.

 

[TexasDroughtBrewery]

If I am reading this right its 1.002 which puts me at 8.5% ABV ...I added the ounce of citra for dry hop and so far the wert taste so good. very excited.

 

[val214]

If I am reading this right its 1.002 which puts me at 8.5% ABV ...I added the ounce of citra for dry hop and so far the wert taste so good. very excited.

That looks more like 1.010

 

[RM-MN]

That looks more like 1.010

Maybe even 1.012 since there is a ring of bubbles and you can't exactly see where the beer intersects the hydrometer.

If I am reading this right its 1.002 which puts me at 8.5% ABV ...I added the ounce of citra for dry hop and so far the wert taste so good. very excited.

Look closely at the picture you posted. The 1.000 line is right above the word "beer" so the next line with a label is 1.010. Your beer is a little below this and can't be read accurately because of the ring of bubbles but it must be a little below the bubbles so I estimated it to be 1.012.

 

[Rhetorik]

And IMO 1.012 is a very good FG for an IPA as it will have a slightly sweet finish; 1.002 would be very dry.

 

[TexasDroughtBrewery]

Maybe even 1.012 since there is a ring of bubbles and you can't exactly see where the beer intersects the hydrometer.

If I am reading this right its 1.002 which puts me at 8.5% ABV ...I added the ounce of citra for dry hop and so far the wert taste so good. very excited.

Look closely at the picture you posted. The 1.000 line is right above the word "beer" so the next line with a label is 1.010. Your beer is a little below this and can't be read accurately because of the ring of bubbles but it must be a little below the bubbles so I estimated it to be 1.012.

I often have a hard time reading the hydrometer. Thank you for the clarification I am still very happy with 1.012 with 1.014 being my target.

 

[TexasDroughtBrewery]

Yes, I read the hydrometer wrong, I am not used to reading the meter when its that high, as this is my first "big" beer. This was also my very first IPA and so far I have hit every mark with all yall's advise. I really appreciate the feedback this has been a very fun and rewarding brew.

 

[Auger]

If I am reading this right its 1.002 which puts me at 8.5% ABV ...I added the ounce of citra for dry hop and so far the wert taste so good. very excited.

Looks good! In addition to the previous comments - its not wort or "wert" at this point, it's beer. Wort is before you add yeast. Once you've pitched your yeast, it becomes "beer".

Cheers!

 

[RM-MN]

Yes, I read the hydrometer wrong, I am not used to reading the meter when its that high, as this is my first "big" beer. This was also my very first IPA and so far I have hit every mark with all yall's advise. I really appreciate the feedback this has been a very fun and rewarding brew.

I'll drink to that.

Oh wait, you're the one with the beer and it isn't even bottled yet. Maybe I'll just say congratulations and may you make many more.

 

[TexasDroughtBrewery]

Ok, today is the day..its been a week the dry hop should be done. I am going to transfer to a keg and cold crash then its time almost time to enjoy. I will keep everyone posted.

 

[TexasDroughtBrewery]

Update: its been packaged and it should be ready to drink in just a few days I force carb woohoo.

 

[TexasDroughtBrewery]

Its been in the keg now for about 4 days, it should be ready to drink I poured a sample and the aroma was amazing, it was a tad more bitter than I thought it would turn out to be, very grapefruit heavy in flavor over all a pretty good beer. I am waiting a little longer hoping it will clear up as it sits in there its a bit cloudy right now. I will prob start drinking it by this weekend either way. Cheers!

 

[TexasDroughtBrewery]

Drum roll please...

 

[RM-MN]

Drum roll please...

Looks good! I'd drink that....except you have the beer and are 1500 miles away. I'll just have to choke down the beer I brewed instead.

 

[Gibberoni]

Looks good. Maybe a touch light on the head, but that can be fixed with a bit more carbing. Enjoy!!

 

[TexasDroughtBrewery]

I have the PSI around 11ish right now. Should I bump that for this style?

 

[Gibberoni]

Well, I should say the head looks light, BUT is it carbed to what you want? I only say that because I did not notice any head retention on the glass, so I assumed you took the picture pretty quickly after the pour. This is a great chart to use if you have any doubt about the PSI setting.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o_S9tOHVf5M/T7rK96heX6I/AAAAAAAAAJI/Womlr09p1GY/s1600/chart.jpg

I hope you didn't take my comment as critical of your beer. Its yours, it looks good! Carb it to what you want, not what I think it should be at

Cheers!

 

[poptarts]

Well, I should say the head looks light, BUT is it carbed to what you want? I only say that because I did not notice any head retention on the glass, so I assumed you took the picture pretty quickly after the pour. This is a great chart to use if you have any doubt about the PSI setting.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o_S9tOHVf5M/T7rK96heX6I/AAAAAAAAAJI/Womlr09p1GY/s1600/chart.jpg

I hope you didn't take my comment as critical of your beer. Its yours, it looks good! Carb it to what you want, not what I think it should be at

Cheers!

It should also be noted that chart is for sea level. you should add an additional .5 PSI for every 1k above sea level. being at close to 8k altitude, thats a +4 psi difference for me.
I enjoy this chart as a good example as well as the one linked above.
https://www.newbelgium.com/files/CO2 Selection Chart.pdf

 

[TexasDroughtBrewery]

Well, I should say the head looks light, BUT is it carbed to what you want? I only say that because I did not notice any head retention on the glass, so I assumed you took the picture pretty quickly after the pour. This is a great chart to use if you have any doubt about the PSI setting.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o_S9tOHVf5M/T7rK96heX6I/AAAAAAAAAJI/Womlr09p1GY/s1600/chart.jpg

I hope you didn't take my comment as critical of your beer. Its yours, it looks good! Carb it to what you want, not what I think it should be at

Cheers!

I talk all feedback positively and appreciate any ones advice. I bumped it up by 2psi. A little extra carbonation wouldn't hurt it. I am enjoying the flavor and do recommend the recipe

 

[TexasDroughtBrewery]

There we go, its holding the head now. Thats around 13 PSI.