Need False Bottom and Burner Advice

[ImperialStout]

Want to set up a 10 gallon Polar Wear brew pot with SS spigot as a mash tun. The inside diameter measures 15.7", same as the Megapot 15 gallon pot so the 15 gal FB should fit the 10 gal pot I have.

The three false bottoms are:

Universal False Bottom $49.99
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/universal-false-bottom.html
that will also need:
Mash Tun False Bottom Adapter, Stainless $9.49
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/mash-tun-false-bottom-adapter-stainless.html

This FB is only 11.5" dia and would leave 2" all around the bottom of the pot.
Concerned the grain in that area will not get rinsed well.

False Bottom for 15 Gallon Megapot 1.2 $89.99
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/15-5-8-diameter-false-bottom-with-feet-stainless-steel.html

This may be the best choice. Should fit tight and leave about a 1/8" gap between the FB and pot walls.

Blichmann BoilerMaker - 10 Gallon False Bottom $76.99
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/blichmann-boilermaker-10-gallon-false-bottom.html

Like this technology. Although my pot does not have the ridge for the FB to rest on, I can make a ring out of copper tubing that will serve the same purpose.

Mostly interested in hearing from people who have used these false bottoms and what you liked or didn't like about them.

How much heat will I loose from a 10 gal SS brew pot in a 1 hour mash? Use a cooler now and have no heat loss. Should I get a small burner?

The burner I am thinking about is a The Dark Star Burner, $49.99
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/the-dark-star-burner.html

This is a small 54,000 BTU burner. I use a Blichmann 72,000 BTU burner to boil wort. Plan to heat water on the Blichmann, add grain and use the small burner to keep the mash at the right temp if needed.

Burner is rated to hold a 10 gal pot. I assume that means with 7 gal water for a 5 gal batch. I make high gravity beers with 22 pounds of grain and 7 gallons of water. Anyone think the burner will not support this weight?

 

[acidrain]

I would get a FB that fits the diameter exactly, or is sligfhtly bigger so that it can be trimmed to fit. The Blichman didn't say what diameter they are, but the punched bottom is desirable to me.
You are going to loose 10F easily unless you insulate well, and even then you'll probably loose enough that you will need to add heat.
I would not direct fire a mash tun (been there, done that).
After starting with direct fire, moving to RIMS, I have finally settled on HERMS and love it.
Herms can be built for around $100, which is cheaper than RIMS and better than direct fired IMHO.

 

[ImperialStout]

Thanks. Why should a MT not be direct fired and exactly what are RIMS and HERMS systems. How do they help keep the mask at the target temp?

 

[acidrain]

Direct firing for me has produced scorched wort. Others will chime in and say that's not true, but it has been my experience.
Same with RIMS (recirculated infusion mash system) where the recirculated wort is passed over an electric element (usually) to maintain the temp. If the circulation is stopped or slowed for any reason, the wort can be scorched.
HERMS (hot emersion recirculated mash system) is pumped through a coil of tubing inside of a hot liquid (usually in the HLT) and returned to the mash. This is a much more gentle heating method, and will not scorch the wort. HERMS is the best system I have found for a keeping steading temperature in a SS MT.
If you are not ready to move to pump and recirculation system to maintain temps, I would go with a cooler based MT where the temps are maintained through efficient insulation.
I have found no mash efficiency gain between recirculated systems, and static insulated systems. One is just way more expensive than the other, but SS kettles look really cool.

 

[splyn]

actually, HERMS stands for Heat Exchange Recirculating Mash System. But i really have no other input for this topic.

 

[ImperialStout]

Thanks Acidrain for your input on RIMS and HERMS systems.

For me, RIMS and HERMS has no attraction. Too much trouble and too expensive for marginal gain. Right now I fly sparge in a 10 gal round Igloo cooler, have no heat loss over a 1 hour mash and consistently hit 80% mash efficiency, fly sparge and hit SG, OG, FG, batch volume and expected ABV. Now need to concentrate on consistently getting the beer to have the aroma, initial and after taste, body, colour and head retention I am looking for. Have done that but have also made some dogs. Am selling the 10 gal Polar Wear brew pot and staying with the 10 gal Igloo cooler MT.

Brewing is science and art. Without being a chemist, I have got close to the science. Now need to improve the art for a consistent brew. By asking questions here I have learned that direct firing a SS MT is not advised and a RIMS or HERMS system will not improve the beer and will cost more.

Thanks again. I like the saying: "If it ain't broken, don't fix it".

Comment: The spell checker flags SPARGE and HREMS. I would think a brewing spell checker would know common brewing language.