My Weldless Build Using Strut

[MrMikeWhite]

It's getting there

Before
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After
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[MrMikeWhite]

Just need to mount everything.clean up the temp probe wires, and mount and cut this top

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[Lyle1017]

Having trouble with this part....using Strutchannelfittings.com for the stand and purchased some L brackets to mount the Blichmann to the stand. I am using two of the THK-133: ANGLE BKT - 1 HOLE + 1 SLOT (2.5") and two of the THK-146: ANGLE BKT - 3 HOLES, HOT DIP GALVANIZED per burner. Since I am able to adjust the crossbeams, I am using the 3 hole bracket for the sides of the burner and the longer bracket with the slot for the front and back....running into the problem of the bracket protruding from the front and back...not very clean. I had originally taken the legs off of the burner but am now rethinking putting them back on and rotating the legs to the four corners of the strut. Does anyone have any ideas???? Thanks!

 

[boganll]

Having trouble with this part....using Strutchannelfittings.com for the stand and purchased some L brackets to mount the Blichmann to the stand. I am using two of the THK-133: ANGLE BKT - 1 HOLE + 1 SLOT (2.5") and two of the THK-146: ANGLE BKT - 3 HOLES, HOT DIP GALVANIZED per burner. Since I am able to adjust the crossbeams, I am using the 3 hole bracket for the sides of the burner and the longer bracket with the slot for the front and back....running into the problem of the bracket protruding from the front and back...not very clean. I had originally taken the legs off of the burner but am now rethinking putting them back on and rotating the legs to the four corners of the strut. Does anyone have any ideas???? Thanks!

I just fabricated some burner mounts out of the cheap galvanized straps you can buy at HD. I can post a picture or you can check out OP's pics. He did the same thing. A lot cheaper than buying more fasteners then you're already going to need to get the rest of the stand built.

 

[lpdjshaw]

Having trouble with this part....using Strutchannelfittings.com for the stand and purchased some L brackets to mount the Blichmann to the stand. I am using two of the THK-133: ANGLE BKT - 1 HOLE + 1 SLOT (2.5") and two of the THK-146: ANGLE BKT - 3 HOLES, HOT DIP GALVANIZED per burner. Since I am able to adjust the crossbeams, I am using the 3 hole bracket for the sides of the burner and the longer bracket with the slot for the front and back....running into the problem of the bracket protruding from the front and back...not very clean. I had originally taken the legs off of the burner but am now rethinking putting them back on and rotating the legs to the four corners of the strut. Does anyone have any ideas???? Thanks!

Without seeing a photo I'm not sure if this helps, but this is how I did mine. Only used two mounts for the sides. The L bracket is from SCF and the stainless screws and stuff are HD. The top view photo only shows how the burner sits, I didn't have them screwed in yet.

 

[podz]

I'm trying to get ahold of some STRUT to do a similar stand but they don't sell it or import it to Finland. Even though Flamco has a business presence here... Let's see if they manage to get some for me.

 

[Rynolee]

I fabricated my own as well. Purchased 2-6ft straps that had holes every 1/2 inch or so. Cut to perfect lengths and the holes lines up spot on to the Blichmann burners. Bent to 90 degree angles and mounted flush. I was quite impressed that it worked so well. I might be able to upload some pics when I brew in a week or two.

 

[btbnl]

Having trouble with this part....using Strutchannelfittings.com for the stand and purchased some L brackets to mount the Blichmann to the stand. I am using two of the THK-133: ANGLE BKT - 1 HOLE + 1 SLOT (2.5") and two of the THK-146: ANGLE BKT - 3 HOLES, HOT DIP GALVANIZED per burner. Since I am able to adjust the crossbeams, I am using the 3 hole bracket for the sides of the burner and the longer bracket with the slot for the front and back....running into the problem of the bracket protruding from the front and back...not very clean. I had originally taken the legs off of the burner but am now rethinking putting them back on and rotating the legs to the four corners of the strut. Does anyone have any ideas???? Thanks!

Here's how I ended up mounting mine, using THK-185s:

 

[podz]

Damn, I ended up getting quoted 300 EUR to bring enough here to do a brewstand. I can buy angle iron AND a MIG welder for less than that.

 

[Rynolee]

Here are the pieces we cut to mount the burners to the stand We had to drill one of the holes a bit off kilter due to alignment but it ended up working very well. We started with two 6-foot pieces and cut them each down to 6 - 11" pieces to mount all three burners. The spacing from the burner to kettle ended up at 3", which allowed perfect heat distribution to our pots.

 

[lschiavo]

Damn, I ended up getting quoted 300 EUR to bring enough here to do a brewstand. I can buy angle iron AND a MIG welder for less than that.

Strut is great. Too bad you can't reasonably get your hands on some. For our brewing purposes, "power angle" is great stuff too. Just nuts and bolts, no fittings (erector set). I have built many sturdy things with this stuff.

 

[podz]

Strut is great. Too bad you can't reasonably get your hands on some. For our brewing purposes, "power angle" is great stuff too. Just nuts and bolts, no fittings (erector set). I have built many sturdy things with this stuff.

Yeah it would be nice if they sold that stuff here, too.

 

[lschiavo]

Yeah it would be nice if they sold that stuff here, too.

Damn, what are you supposed to build stuff with in Finland? Maybe old bedframes?

 

[podz]

Damn, what are you supposed to build stuff with in Finland? Maybe old bedframes?

Most of this type of thing, if it is available here, is only available in trade stores. Shopping in a trade store (electrical or plumbing supply, painting supply, welding supply, etc) requires that you have a business that is registered for doing business in that particular field. They don't sell to private people, only business accounts and they check the business register when you open an account. In other words, you need to be a licensed plumber, electrician, etc to shop at those places.

Most of the stuff available to private people is in kits. Self fabrication of various items is strongly prevented by the trade unions. Even to import that strut for 300, it would need to go to a plumbing supply and I would have to convince some plumber to go there and buy it for me - who would probably want a markup.

Additionally, european beds are not made with angle iron frames like the US beds are. There is usually very little metal involved.

 

[lschiavo]

Most of this type of thing, if it is available here, is only available in trade stores. Shopping in a trade store (electrical or plumbing supply, painting supply, welding supply, etc) requires that you have a business that is registered for doing business in that particular field. They don't sell to private people, only business accounts and they check the business register when you open an account. In other words, you need to be a licensed plumber, electrician, etc to shop at those places.

Most of the stuff available to private people is in kits. Self fabrication of various items is strongly prevented by the trade unions. Even to import that strut for 300, it would need to go to a plumbing supply and I would have to convince some plumber to go there and buy it for me - who would probably want a markup.

I get it. It is similar here. I am a contractor so I get better prices wholesale but the product is generally still available to all consumers. I am surprised by your trade situation. It sounds great for the tradesman but otherwise completely unfair.

 

[podz]

I get it. It is similar here. I am a contractor so I get better prices wholesale but the product is generally still available to all consumers. I am surprised by your trade situation. It sounds great for the tradesman but otherwise completely unfair.

It's not just Finland, this situation exists in varying degrees all across Europe.

 

[kirbcheck]

It's not just Finland, this situation exists in varying degrees all across Europe.

You might go to an electrical contractor to see of they could get you some at cheaper rates. I sent straight to a supplier, they gave me the contractor rate. Made it super cheap.

 

[sweetcell]

Most of this type of thing, if it is available here, is only available in trade stores. (...) you need to be a licensed plumber, electrician, etc to shop at those places.

ugh, what a pain.

sounds like you need to befriend a contractor, plumber, etc and have them buy the stuff for you. perhaps bribe someone with offers of beer? (which you can't make until you have the stand built, so... )

 

[podz]

You might go to an electrical contractor to see of they could get you some at cheaper rates. I sent straight to a supplier, they gave me the contractor rate. Made it super cheap.

Flamco, the producer of struts (Dutch company), has a Finnish subsidiary. The Finnish subsidiary will only import them to a plumbing supply. Here, strut is stereotyped as plumbing equipment and there is nothing I can do to change that. Anyhow, as I said I can buy a 3-phase MIG welder and angle iron for less.

Since I now have a 3-phase outlet in my garage, taking up MIG welding is going to be my new hobby.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

As someone mentioned.........Coerce the plumbing supply firm with some homebrew.

 

[slurring_troobadour]

Well it's been a few months since I bought my strut from Gifty, got it home, de-galvanized it, painted it with 2000 degree Rust-Oleum paint. I've brewed on it 3 times so far and the paint looks to be in great shape. It is a bit duller where the pots come in contact with the strut - but it's still black - no rust. From right to left - 25 gal HLT, 25 gal Mash Tun, 40 gallon brew kettle, maxximus counterflow chiller, pumps. Thanks to Steve(Gifty) who started me down this path.

 

[Rynolee]

Very nice! I like the center mounted pumps. Do you find that the the vertical mounting helps with priming them? Any heat issues from the center burner?

 

[slurring_troobadour]

Mounting the pumps vertically is huge. Intake is on the bottom - discharge on the top. This way, when you open the valve on any pot, because it's up higher it automatically fills the entire pump housing - never cavitates. No issue from the heat of the center burner.

 

[FoCobrewguy]

What did you use to mount the pumps vertically on the strut? Did you have to make the holes that were already on the pump larger?

 

[slurring_troobadour]

I used 2 pieces of 1x6. Spray painted them black and used bolts and washers to bind them together thru the unistrut. Then I bolted the pumps to the wood using the holes in the base of the pumps.

 

[FoCobrewguy]

Thanks I will try that out.

 

[scubahoundnc]

I used Strut on my rig too. It's a beast to lift it into the back of the truck to take somewhere!

For my pump I mounded a small piece of strut to the center vertical bar and attached a U-bracket to my pump. So my pump hangs on the small piece of strut and just lifts off.

 

[marshallbeer]

How did you de-galvanize it?

 

[marshallbeer]

Here are the pieces we cut to mount the burners to the stand We had to drill one of the holes a bit off kilter due to alignment but it ended up working very well. We started with two 6-foot pieces and cut them each down to 6 - 11" pieces to mount all three burners. The spacing from the burner to kettle ended up at 3", which allowed perfect heat distribution to our pots.

hat's how I mounted mine. Works well.

 

[scubahoundnc]

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I think I did this wrong but oh well. My pump hangs on the bracket made of a pieven of strut by the gas tank

 

[sweetcell]

I think I did this wrong but oh well.

meh. i wouldn't worry about it too much - if it works, that's all that counts. using strut for our builds is over-kill, these things could hold 50x the weight that we put on them (when built right) so a non-standard build should still hold everything just fine.

but tell me - is the top level, uh, not level? picture makes it look like the right side is lower than the left...

 

[scubahoundnc]

meh. i wouldn't worry about it too much - if it works, that's all that counts. using strut for our builds is over-kill, these things could hold 50x the weight that we put on them (when built right) so a non-standard build should still hold everything just fine.

but tell me - is the top level, uh, not level? picture makes it look like the right side is lower than the left...

Lol I meant the post the pic. No it's just the picture angle. It is level. Saw the above picture had wheels on its end. Not sure how one person could safely put one of these rigs upright without a wench.

 

[bcrawfo2]

There seem to be two methods on how the verticals tie into the lower horizontals.
Any benefit one way or the other?
I like the one where the verticals go all the way to the floor. I don't plan on a center support, so it gives me a higher place to mount my pumps
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1440982963.542520.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1440982981.936987.jpg

 

[boganll]

There's tons of different fasteners for these rail systems so there's not much disadvantage to orientating them one way or another. It depends on what you want and whether the varying cost of different fasteners will influence your decision.

 

[itsthehops]

Yeah guys good stuff here!

I'm looking to begin the build process and want to go SS on the top.

Would this be what I am after? http://www.cesco.com/b2c/product/Superstrut-A1400HS-10SS-14-Gauge-Slotted-Stainless/653444

In the description it says goldgalv as a finish, so will I need to worry about fumes from this when it is burnt?

Thanks in advance!

 

[b-boy]

Yeah guys good stuff here!

I'm looking to begin the build process and want to go SS on the top.

Would this be what I am after? http://www.cesco.com/b2c/product/Superstrut-A1400HS-10SS-14-Gauge-Slotted-Stainless/653444

In the description it says goldgalv as a finish, so will I need to worry about fumes from this when it is burnt?

Thanks in advance!

I think that description is wrong. If it's truly SS, and it looks like it is, it won't be galvanized. The goldgalv is the stuff you can pickup at HD/Lowes.

My stand is SS on top. I think it's worth the extra $$$. The only parts that are really expensive are the SS corner brackets. I went with galvanized on that and just made sure flames don't touch them,

 

[kitemanks]

My stand is made of the galvanized stuff you can get at Lowe's or any other home improvement store. I have it in a 2 tier system electric, where I pump upstairs to a direct fire for boil. If you fire on this in the garage I wouldn't worry about fumes. If your venting for CO and CO2 from direct fire that should be enough.

 

[Rynolee]

Yeah guys good stuff here!

I'm looking to begin the build process and want to go SS on the top.

Would this be what I am after? http://www.cesco.com/b2c/product/Superstrut-A1400HS-10SS-14-Gauge-Slotted-Stainless/653444

In the description it says goldgalv as a finish, so will I need to worry about fumes from this when it is burnt?

Thanks in advance!

I would look at www.strutchannelfittings.com. I purchased from this site on my custom build that has stainless steel on top and was very satisfied with the service and quality of receiving exactly what I ordered. Plus they were able to cut down pieces to the exact measurements I shared with them, which saved me time!

After speaking with the owner, they updated their brewstand configurations to provide the SS option and a kit, which may help if the measurements work for your build: http://www.strutchannelfittings.com...-AND-FITTINGS-BLACK-POWDER-COATED_p_1187.html

 

[kirbcheck]

I would look at www.strutchannelfittings.com. I purchased from this site on my custom build that has stainless steel on top and was very satisfied with the service and quality of receiving exactly what I ordered. Plus they were able to cut down pieces to the exact measurements I shared with them, which saved me time!

After speaking with the owner, they updated their brewstand configurations to provide the SS option and a kit, which may help if the measurements work for your build: http://www.strutchannelfittings.com...-AND-FITTINGS-BLACK-POWDER-COATED_p_1187.html

I ordered all my fittings from this site, they were great to work with. The actual strut I bought locally from an electrical supplier. When they heard what I was doing they gave me contractor pricing which saved me quite a bit.

 

[jeeppilot]

Has anyone looked into ceramic coating their strut? I talked to a guy who will sand or soda blast the strut, so I don't have to cook or acid bath the galvanization off, then spray and bake a 1500 degree ceramic coating for $3/ft. My table is going to have 55" long pieces 12" width pieces. So about 13' for my setup to do the top = $40. I was lucky and my strut was free but even at average $15/ 10' stick, that still less half the cost of SS strut. Has anyone done this? Any potential issues?