My new 10 gallon insulated stainless MLT (contemplating manifold designs)

[weaselchew]

I was lucky enough to score this 10 gallon Aervoid model 784 insulated stainless container on the local craigslist. $15! It's supposed to keep liquids hot/cold for hours... there was no way I could pass it up, even if I just modified the lid (not shown in this pic) and used it as a HLT.

The only "downside" of sorts is the opening is 6" and the inside is around 10" or so. You can still reach in to the bottom easily but it rules out a false bottom, unless I can figure out how to come up with some sort of folding or expanding false bottom. (Ideas, anyone? ) I did think of maybe making a stainless mesh 6" wide "container" that could sit in the bottom with an outlet tube feeding the container outlet.

I've been reading up on manifolds and am thinking that will probably be my best bet. I've seen a number of manifolds here that have the outlet rise up over the manifold and over to the outlet of the tun. Since the outlet on this container is completely on the bottom, I'd like to bring the output of the manifold directly over without bringing it up and potentially losing 1-3" of liquid at the end.

Are there any good rules to follow when designing a manifold? I did read on here somewhere about keeping the manifold in from the edges a bit to keep water from channeling down the sides. I started drawing up a design and then went a little overboard playing with some other possibilities. Some are a bit "nuts" even if just for the amount of fittings used. The one would probably appeal somewhat to Boston Bruins fans though
I'd probably stick to something more simple like the top row, but I did start to wonder if/how much more efficient and/or less likely to get stuck mashes different designs could be.

Is 1/2" (5/8" OD) generally what's used when using copper? (I'm sure CPVC works fine, but I'd rather stick with copper or stainless) Has anyone tried 3/8" copper (1/2" OD) for a manifold?

 

[dezman]

Yea i'd go with something like the top left one. I use 1/2" copper tubing for my mash tun. Make sure you get it as close to the bottom as possible and cut some slots every half inch or so. Make sure to get a pipe bender for this or it will kink easily. I would think that 3/8" would also work too and cost a little less

 

[weaselchew]

Here is what I was thinking as far as making a mesh "hockey puck" that's 6" wide that would have a tube to feed the outlet of the container. I'd guess it should be somewhere in the 1/2" to 1" tall range and have a frame or supports to keep it from crushing.

I wonder if it would be as effective as a manifold since there would be a 2-2.5" gap between it and the edges of the container.

 

[CidahMastah]

Why not cut the top and hinge it in so you can add a false bottom?

 

[weaselchew]

Why not cut the top and hinge it in so you can add a false bottom?

It's insulated, I'm pretty sure it's a vacuum, actually. The outside is around 15" wide whereas the inside is about 10-11" wide.

When I was cleaning it, I did think "man, flipping this upside down with a few modifications and converting the vacuum to a glycol jacket, this could be a pretty sweet glycol-chilled conical fermenter" The "few modifications" would be quite a bit of cutting/fabricating though.

 

[suds_zville]

Two thoughts that cross my mind:
1- hinged false bottom from Jaybird
http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/False_Bottoms.html
2- a long stainless mesh arranged in a coiled manner

 

[Apoxbrew]

i have an aervoid i use as an mlt. i'll take pics and post for you to see. i use a simple square copper manifold. get 70-80% efficiency depending on how well i hit my temps.

mine was for soup rather than beverage, so i ported it myself and it has a larger opening at the top. otherwise it's the same design.

 

[weaselchew]

Two thoughts that cross my mind:
1- hinged false bottom from Jaybird
http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/False_Bottoms.html
2- a long stainless mesh arranged in a coiled manner

Thanks for the link, after looking at some of their designs I got the idea of just making a 2 piece false bottom that would have a bit of overlap in the middle. I think this should work.

i have an aervoid i use as an mlt. i'll take pics and post for you to see. i use a simple square copper manifold. get 70-80% efficiency depending on how well i hit my temps.

mine was for soup rather than beverage, so i ported it myself and it has a larger opening at the top. otherwise it's the same design.

I'd love to see what you ended up with, and I'm also curious what it looked like when you ported the container... I assume the vacuum layer was hollow? Did you weld the fitting/tube on? How did you do the inner side?

 

[djfriesen]

Any way you can use one of those vegetable strainers? They fold out almost like a camera lens. Bet you come up with some kind of clamps or tongs that you could fish it out with if needed, too.

 

[mikeal]

Why not a stainless steel braid?

 

[Apoxbrew]

here's my, manifold.

when i ported, i found the center of mine to be hollow... it was a vacuum (it's obviously not anymore).

i went weldless. had to use some silicone caulk to make a good seal... the inside curve was just too sharp to get a good seal. though i didn't try stacking silicone gaskets because i didn't have any... you might get away with that if you had them.

 

[weaselchew]

Looks good, thanks for the pic.

Although I'm now starting to think I might pick up some perforated stainless sheet and cut out a false bottom in two halves.

I found out the threaded fitting on the bottom of the Aervoid is 7/8"-14 (5/8" BSP) which is actually the same size as shanks and Sanke tap fittings. I've been looking for some adapters from beer nut to something other than barbed fittings, but I haven't had much luck. I might end up having to go to a 1/2" barb to a short bit of silicone hose to an inline ball valve rather than attaching a valve directly to the container.

 

[mobilecabinworks]

How about a SS folding vegetable steamer like you see at the store?

 

[subliminalurge]

Just a thought, but if that thing is double walled with a vacuum in between, I'd think really, really hard before drilling any holes in it. That vacuum should give you AWESOME temperature retention, so it would be a shame to drill holes if you can figure out a way around it.

 

[weaselchew]

Why not a stainless steel braid?

Sorry, missed this one... a simple braid is my fallback if I end up having issues with other designs, but I'd prefer a false bottom or manifold. I'd like to try fly and batch sparging and I've read the braid might not be quite as optimum for fly sparging.

Any way you can use one of those vegetable strainers? They fold out almost like a camera lens. Bet you come up with some kind of clamps or tongs that you could fish it out with if needed, too.

How about a SS folding vegetable steamer like you see at the store?

This is a pretty good idea but unfortunately from all the ones I've looked up, the ones that'd fit in won't open wide enough and the ones that will open wide enough won't fit in the top.

Just a thought, but if that thing is double walled with a vacuum in between, I'd think really, really hard before drilling any holes in it. That vacuum should give you AWESOME temperature retention, so it would be a shame to drill holes if you can figure out a way around it.

I'm not going to drill any holes in it. It came from the factory with a 1/2" ID outlet on the bottom already. Apoxbrew had to drill their AerVoid since their container was a soup/food container vs mine being for coffee/beverages. I am having a bit of an issue finding fittings/adapters/valves that fit the 7/8"-14 on the factory output.
I did find this MicroMatic S/S shutoff valve that would be perfect, except I contacted MicroMatic and they said I shouldn't run liquids hotter than 140°F through it. It does say its safe to put in an autoclave though. Bummer, I'd really like an attached valve vs an inline valve.

 

[subliminalurge]

.