My Mash Tun Picture... Need Advice

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vindee

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I have been reading posts about people not getting good efficiency. That has also been my case. I'm wondering if my manifold can cause efficiency deficiency. :)
This is a picture of the manifold before I cut the slits in the bottom. It's in a 52 qt. Coleman Extreme cooler. I have coupled the manifold to the ball valve with stainless steel braid. Not sure if I'm getting some channeling at that area or not. I have never had a stuck sparge so I'm guessing the manifold is working like it is supposed to.
The cuts were made with a hack saw every 1/2" on all the tubing.
The blue tape was just to mark my cuts.
I'm also thinking it could be the way the grains are milled at my brew shop. But if course they say there mill is set up correctly, and they do supply some small breweries in the area so I'm taking there word for it.
Any opinions here?
Steve

DSC08817.jpg
 
vindee said:
Sounds like maybe my 52qt cooler might be to big for 5 gallon batches.
Now I'm thinking I should go with a 5 gallon cylindrical Igloo type cooler.

http://www.homebrewing.org/product.asp?itemid=1005&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ProductAds&gclid=CNrSwMzdo7kCFShxQgodDBsAPQ

It wasn't the actual building of the cooler that is the good stuff in that article. He has a bunch of info on manifolds and how to maximize their effectiveness. Lots of good stuff on how the wort will drain based on how the manifold is constructed and where it is placed.
 
Do you batch sparge of fly sparge?
If you fly sparge, I would agree that you MLT is too big. There would be too little grain bed depth to prevent channeling.
If you batch sparge, the grain bed depth doesn't matter, providing you stir really thoroughly before vorlauf for the initial runnings, and for each sparge addition.
With a setup like that, I would definitely use a batch sparge.

-a.
 
Do you batch sparge of fly sparge?
If you fly sparge, I would agree that you MLT is too big. There would be too little grain bed depth to prevent channeling.
If you batch sparge, the grain bed depth doesn't matter, providing you stir really thoroughly before vorlauf for the initial runnings, and for each sparge addition.
With a setup like that, I would definitely use a batch sparge.

-a.

I do batch sparge. I also stir like you suggest.
I'm going to add one more cross piece in the area that doesn't have one. Originally my outlet piece was going to come from the center but I couldn't make the transition through the cooler without going under the manifold and raising it at that end. Adding that piece back in might gain me another half a point! :)
Steve
 
I batch and fly in a 60 qt ice cube for 5 gallon batches. I was having lousy efficiency, turns out I wasn't stirring enough during the mash. Went from 62% average to 85% on the past two batches. I don't usually stir per se but pick up the cooler and shake it a bit but try to avoid splashing. I pick it up every 10 minutes or so.
 
I batch and fly in a 60 qt ice cube for 5 gallon batches. I was having lousy efficiency, turns out I wasn't stirring enough during the mash. Went from 62% average to 85% on the past two batches. I don't usually stir per se but pick up the cooler and shake it a bit but try to avoid splashing. I pick it up every 10 minutes or so.

Great idea. I'll try that.
 
I batch and fly in a 60 qt ice cube for 5 gallon batches. I was having lousy efficiency, turns out I wasn't stirring enough during the mash. Went from 62% average to 85% on the past two batches. I don't usually stir per se but pick up the cooler and shake it a bit but try to avoid splashing. I pick it up every 10 minutes or so.
I think you will increase your efficiency considerably if you increase the duration (or intensity) of your stirs before draining.

-a.
 
You stir it til the battery dies,,, Kidding kidding.... But I'm not kidding about using the mixer on a drill, it makes life easier and quicker. IMHO I use my mixer on a very slow setting with a light finger on the trigger.
 
The paint mixer is my next small-buy. Five bucks is worth it. I want to cut a hole through my cooler lid to run it, this way I am not losing heat. Just afraid if the HSA.
 
Manifold shape for batch sparge won't matter that much. I use a 70qt cooler with a straight piece of pex with slots and get 80% on 5g batches. Like others have said stirring after adding sparge water is key. I'm lazy, so I just use a pump to recirculate the sparge water out the manifold and back into the cooler at full blast. I do this for five or ten minutes before turning it down and pulling off the runnings.
 
How is your crush?
Stir every 15-20 minutes during mash?
Squeeze that last bit of juice out? I force a plastic pitcher down on the grains.

My manifold sucks more than yours. I can usually squeeze ~80%

manifold.jpg
 
You stir it til the battery dies,,, Kidding kidding.... But I'm not kidding about using the mixer on a drill, it makes life easier and quicker. IMHO I use my mixer on a very slow setting with a light finger on the trigger.

That would work quite well for helping to chill and aerate the wort. Right now I have a plastic spoon attached to my drill :)
 
How is your crush?
Stir every 15-20 minutes during mash?
Squeeze that last bit of juice out? I force a plastic pitcher down on the grains.

My manifold sucks more than yours. I can usually squeeze ~80%

As a matter of fact, I just had my grains crushed today for an amber ale I'm doing this weekend and the crush looked so much better.
I'm anxious to see if efficiency improves.
I'll keep you posted.
Thanks
 
vindee said:
I do batch sparge. I also stir like you suggest.
I'm going to add one more cross piece in the area that doesn't have one. Originally my outlet piece was going to come from the center but I couldn't make the transition through the cooler without going under the manifold and raising it at that end. Adding that piece back in might gain me another half a point! :)
Steve

Changing the manifold will make no difference batch sparging. All it needs to do is drain and not stick.
 
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