My Keezer Build

[jschnyderite]

After some research, it turns out I need the exact opposite of what I thought. I'm making a keezer instead of a kegerator, and will built a bar around it.

I'm going with a 7 cu. ft. GE freezer from PC Richards.
Hoping to purchase my tap hardware later on today because it's going to be a pretty quick build.

Some questions before I get started:

Is it ok to have some empty space in the freezer? I read some things about air flow and wasn't sure if people were talking about inside or outside the freezer. I'm starting off with 2 faucets and will eventually put a third, but for the time being, unless I put a lot of bottles on the hump, there will be some dead space.

Is there any issues or considerations to factor when running lines outside the freezer? I see many who just make a collar, but I intended to build a bar, so I thought I'd drill into the top of the freezer and run line up the wooden tower I'll create. Those lines could run a foot or so outside the freezer.

I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go along so please subscribe..and enjoy, of course.

 

[jschnyderite]

small change of plans..some more research into what commercial kegs I can fit and I'm now aiming at a larger freezer.

Frigidaire makes two affordable ones that are wide enough (just barely) for a quarter keg. I couldn't find this being covered before - can the compressor hump support the weight of a quarter keg? that would allow me to fit a quarter and a slim quarter in the smaller of the two freezers OR a quarter, slim quarter, AND a sixth in the larger.

If I can't get one on the hump, I'd have to get the larger freezer (which will force me to adjust my plan dimensions) and will still only be able to run 2 taps max. I would obviously brace the bottom since about 40% of the keg would hang over the edge of the hump. even with this configuration, I'll only have 3.5" - 4" of clearance at the top unless there is a way to strip out some insulation.

comments appreciated

 

[jaytizzle]

How much is in a quarter keg? 7.75 gallons? I'm pretty sure the compressor hump will support that. Should be 85-90 lbs when full.

 

[jschnyderite]

yes..7.75 Gal

i was thinking, if there isn't enough clearance, I can still build a collar and not use it for the taps (since I'm building the bar).

I can mount my gauges to it, run my lines out through it, and that'll give me the extra 3" or so of clearance I need so i don't kink my lines. and as a bonus, I don't have to drill through my freezer..just need to find a decent way to insulate it without adding much depth. like i said, the quarter kegs only fit in by like 1/4" so i don't have much room to play with in building a collar

How much is in a quarter keg? 7.75 gallons? I'm pretty sure the compressor hump will support that. Should be 85-90 lbs when full.

 

[jaytizzle]

Well you can't typically drill through the freezer (except for the lid, that's almost always fair game). A false collar for installation space seems like a smart idea for your case!

 

[mattyb85]

The airspace is referring to outside of the freezer and usually applies to people building a coffin style keezer. This could apply to you also if you wanted the freezer built snugly within the bar. You could make the lid fit close and leave some room on the side and back which would give ample air space

Maybe a design like this? Let me know if u need me to draw it clearer

 

[mattyb85]

Oh also you could extend the compressor hump with some 1/2" wood

 

[jschnyderite]

thanks matt,
my thoughts now are to make a 3" collar (I'd really prefer 2" to keep the height down but i think I'll have trouble drilling through it) and insulate the inside of it to keep the cool air in the freezer (maybe some 1" thick foam). I wanted to drill the holes for lines to my faucets in the back of my collar.

from your drawing, it looks like I should also keep an insulated area where the lines run to the faucets?

This is my first venture into keezers, so i really have no clue how airflow is supposed to work. Do I need to leave a gap between my freezer and frame for air to flow freely around the freezer or is the space in between beam supports sufficient? I've seen many who leave no gap.

I've also seen people run fans both inside the freezer, and in the framing...what is the main concern for me with airflow? are fans really necessary? (keep in mind, the back of my unit will be open

The airspace is referring to outside of the freezer and usually applies to people building a coffin style keezer. This could apply to you also if you wanted the freezer built snugly within the bar. You could make the lid fit close and leave some room on the side and back which would give ample air space

Maybe a design like this? Let me know if u need me to draw it clearer


View attachment 63263

 

[mattyb85]

The fans inside the freezer keep the air moving around, specifically the cool air from the bottom up to the top. The fans you will see in this second drawing will draw that cool air up from the freezer into the insulated box attached to the back of the collar which will keep your beer hoses cool outside of the freezer.




It wouldnt be terribly difficult to make just needs to be deep enough for the PVC & hoses and should have maybe 1/2" rigid foam insulation on all sides. That way you can drill through the collar into the insulated box and up to your tower.

 

[jschnyderite]

would the fans pull air from inside the coffin or inside the freezer into that insulated box? if i dont create the box, would it leave me with foamy beer? warmer beer?...what are the drawbacks?

to save space, I was also thinking of just running pvc out without the box. maybe i could insulate the inside of the pipe with that spray foam or something if its really necessary

The fans inside the freezer keep the air moving around, specifically the cool air from the bottom up to the top. The fans you will see in this second drawing will draw that cool air up from the freezer into the insulated box attached to the back of the collar which will keep your beer hoses cool outside of the freezer.


View attachment 63270

It wouldnt be terribly difficult to make just needs to be deep enough for the PVC & hoses and should have maybe 1/2" rigid foam insulation on all sides. That way you can drill through the collar into the insulated box and up to your tower.

 

[mattyb85]

Foamy & warm. No bueno. To save space I would recommend combining the ideas.

Build your 3" collar but leave a space in the back and build out a 3" x 3" box that would get insulated with rigid foam. Run a 2.5" PVC pipe with a 1.5" PVC pipe inside of than from the box up to the tower. Use foam insulation to fill the space between the two pipes.




This will save u space and should keep the lines cool. How constricted on space are u that you need to conserve this much?

 

[mattyb85]

Basically you need a way to keep the beer lines cool @ insulated no matter how you want to do it my recommendations also allow you to open the top freely which you are going to need to do.
Also you want to make sure there is enough clearance for the freezer to open completely unless you plan on pulling it out to switch out kegs in which case I recommend just building a regular keezer and fitting it into your bar since it will be a pain to try to make a solid way of insulating and cooling them if you plan on pulling out the keezer

 

[jschnyderite]

If I drill through the top of the freezer, would it save me having to do this? the design i've been working on - based on jester and many others wouldn't convert well to this.

Basically you need a way to keep the beer lines cool @ insulated no matter how you want to do it my recommendations also allow you to open the top freely which you are going to need to do.
Also you want to make sure there is enough clearance for the freezer to open completely unless you plan on pulling it out to switch out kegs in which case I recommend just building a regular keezer and fitting it into your bar since it will be a pain to try to make a solid way of insulating and cooling them if you plan on pulling out the keezer

 

[mattyb85]

What is your design? Do you have a picture?

 

[carlisle_bob]

Hi

If you put a commercial keg on the hump, remember that you will need up to 6" above the keg for the coupler and lines. That can make for a *very* tall collar. You can indeed get low profile couplers (more $$$) or put right angles on conventional ones (saves an inch or two).

Two 1/2 barrel kegs need about a 14 to 15 cubic foot freezer if you want to stay off the hump.

Also consider that a half barrel weighs a *LOT*. Even a 1/4 isn't all that light. Hoisting it up a bit more doesn't sound like much, but it can be an issue.

Next gotcha - how far does the lid open up? Some lids don't swing as far as you might think. You need some room as you hoist the keg in and out.

Last one - Some kegs are bigger in diameter than others. 16 1/2" should clear most of them. There are a few that need another inch.

Bob

 

[jschnyderite]

thanks for the comments. I decided to add a 2.5" collar..that should be high enough to get my lines through, right? should have at least 5 inches of clearance now if not more.

My configuration would allow 1 30L (I'm getting one german connector) and one sixtel or slim quarter. the 30L will fit by 1/4" to 1/2" in width.

yea, the quarters will be 90 pounds..I might have to build a step in order to put these bad boys in..not sure how well i can lift 90# up 50 inches or so in the air.

the angle is near 90 degrees. don't think I'll have trouble from that perspective. I can put a little less insulation around the front of the collar if i need to be able to angle the keg.

---***Some updates on progress***---

Bought a freezer yesterday from a PC richards clearance outlet. a little dinged up on the lid, but never used frigidaire 7.2 cu ft for $93 after tax =)

also went to lowes and got casters, plywood, 2x3, 2x4, 1x3(collar) and loctite so i can build out my frame and hopefully the top of my lid and collar over the next day or two.

ONE MORE QUESTION: can I get an elbow for the A connector (german)? I see them for USA (D) connector

Hi

If you put a commercial keg on the hump, remember that you will need up to 6" above the keg for the coupler and lines. That can make for a *very* tall collar. You can indeed get low profile couplers (more $$$) or put right angles on conventional ones (saves an inch or two).

Two 1/2 barrel kegs need about a 14 to 15 cubic foot freezer if you want to stay off the hump.

Also consider that a half barrel weighs a *LOT*. Even a 1/4 isn't all that light. Hoisting it up a bit more doesn't sound like much, but it can be an issue.

Next gotcha - how far does the lid open up? Some lids don't swing as far as you might think. You need some room as you hoist the keg in and out.

Last one - Some kegs are bigger in diameter than others. 16 1/2" should clear most of them. There are a few that need another inch.


Bob

 

[mattyb85]

Are you using a tower to serve the beer? Did u decide how you are going to run the lines?

 

[carlisle_bob]

Hi

A short keg on the hump is a lot more reasonable than a full height one. I would check the length of the freezer to be sure things will all fit. People have been known to "discover" a fit issue when the first full set of kegs arrive ... (yes it is a bit of a panic ...). Since things are pretty heavy, a friction fit probably isn't a good idea. A half inch to spare is probably the rational minimum.

Bob

 

[jschnyderite]

I am going to run the lines through a foam insulated box inside my tower.

Next problem..I want a flush mount drip tray. How do people with designs similar to jesters handle that? drill a second hole through your lid and run a line into the freezer that'll catch any spills?

 

[jschnyderite]

**Quick Update**
I have my frame done and on its wheels. Hopefully drilling into the lid today and doing some tile shopping along with getting some nice oak for the exterior.

Those who did a jester-like build...what did you drill into the lid with? a hole saw, or a normal drill bit? I don't have my hardware yet, so any recommendations on size for a 2 tap setup?

also one issue I need to overcome - I put a 3" collar around my freezer to give enough height to fit the kegs I want..unfortunately, my hinges now don't align too well. one of the hinge holes lines up with my collar, but the other with the freezer (though not with the predrilled manufacturer holes). I'm weary of drilling into the side.. should i worry? if so, any ideas? I was thinking i could plane the collar down 1/4" or so to match the manufacturers top hole with my bottom hinge hole

 

[carlisle_bob]

Hi

New holes in the side of the freezer = bad idea. I'd boost the collar up a few inches and have the hinge all on the collar. Lining stuff up is a bit harder with two surfaces involved.

Hole saws are available at the big box stores for the big holes. I used a drill press and some wood working bits for the shank holes since they were available.

Bob