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My Frigidaire Kegerator Build

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I put the knob back on after I removed the thermostat.

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I put the knob back on after I removed the thermostat.

Looks great. I ended up doing the same thing but also taped it to the wall with aluminum tape. I'm wondering now if it will negatively effect the temperature reading.....

My tower and all the trimmings should be coming at the end of the week. I can't wait!







EDIT: So far the tape doesn't seem to have effected the temp settings. The fridge still cycles like it has been and I feel a little more comfortable seeing the control and light are stable and out of the way, especially when I move the kegs around.
 
Did you run bolts all the way through to the inside of the fridge to mount your tower?

It sounds like folks in the other thread have...but the way my tower bolt holes would line up put them uncomfortably close to freon lines.

I was wondering if it would be feasible to just screw the tower in to the wood that you have under the cover.
 
Did you run bolts all the way through to the inside of the fridge to mount your tower?

It sounds like folks in the other thread have...but the way my tower bolt holes would line up put them uncomfortably close to freon lines.

I was wondering if it would be feasible to just screw the tower in to the wood that you have under the cover.

Yup. I just screwed mine into the wood and let it be!
 
is it possible to just use regular drill bits to drill the holes? Or does it have to be with a hole saw?
 
Same here. Cut a square out of the foam and placed some plywood in it's place and drilled screws into the plywood.

I personally didn't use a hole saw. I used a wood drill bit and drilled in a few spots until the hole in the top of the fridge was large enough to fit the beer lines, but no larger than the circumference of the draft tower. Make sense?
 
Is there a trick to getting the fittings off of the lines that run in to the tower? I need to get the ends off so I can run the tubing through the copper...but am having a hard time.

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Is there a trick to getting the fittings off of the lines that run in to the tower? I need to get the ends off so I can run the tubing through the copper...but am having a hard time.

IMG_1719.JPG

I've never figured those out. I always pry them off while cussing and replace them with the ones that can be tightened with a screwdriver.
 
Did you run bolts all the way through to the inside of the fridge to mount your tower?

It sounds like folks in the other thread have...but the way my tower bolt holes would line up put them uncomfortably close to freon lines.

I was wondering if it would be feasible to just screw the tower in to the wood that you have under the cover.



I just screwed mine into the wood.
 
I made a kegerator very similar to this one this weekend. The two differences I see are that I used a smaller piece of wood (scrap I had on hand), and I located the tower closer to the center of the top. Very easy project!

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I am looking to build mine as well, did you already have the "guts" or did you buy everything new? Any recommendations on where to get a quality product for a good price. I don't have anything yet and really want to get a two-tap tower.
 
I bought all of my gear from More Beer. I've been kegging for a while, but for this project I went with all new stuff (except the kegs). The tower and taps were technically used, but only barely so; the whole assembly looked like it was straight from the factory.
 
I am looking to build mine as well, did you already have the "guts" or did you buy everything new? Any recommendations on where to get a quality product for a good price. I don't have anything yet and really want to get a two-tap tower.

I purchased all of my kegging equipment from www.kegconnection.com. They have awesome customer service, unfortunately my regulator guages were damaged during shipping, however, this dilemma was solved by a quick phone call they shipped out 2 new taprite guages free of charge, and didn't even want me to return the damaged pair.

The dual faucet tower is beautiful, also Taprite brand, and I went with perlick faucets, not inexpensive, but IMO it is a one time cost.
 
BTW, I am diving into this project this weekend, and if anyone has any helpful hints or tips for me I'd really appreciate it.

I'm gonna use Great Stuff window/door foam to fill the hole that will be dug out for the copper pipe, but I'm uncertain about what type of adhesive or glue to stick the top to the wood, and the wood to the foam.

What have you used, or what would be best in your opinion?

FWIW, I already got the top off, it was kind of a PIA. Once you get it started it goes easy, but getting that first corner up is a challenge (at least it was for me).

TIP:
(If I'm not mistaken someone else here mentioned starting at the back, and I agree, start at one of the back corners.) Be aware there are two small plastic tabs that clip the top to the front of the fridge, I didn't know they were there until after I got the top off, but I snapped them off, if you are careful in the way you remove the top you can probably save those two little clips in the front (not that it matters much because everything will be glued back down). However, it seems like they would add a little rigidity to the top in not allowing it to pull away from the fridge in the front where the plastic ledge hangs over the door.

I'll be sure to post a finished pic when I'm done, and let everyone know how it goes!
 
Alright, I finished my my kegerator a couple weeks ago, just now found time to post it here (I have a 2 month old).

I have an entire build write up here, and here, otherwise, I'm trying to make the time to install my blue LED Love digital temp controller and she will be complete.

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Cheers!:mug:
 
Thanks for this useful thread. I am really nervous about doing this to a new fridge, but fount the exact same model # so I'm going to follow your instructions. Any advice on putting the CO2 OUTSIDE the box? Hope mine comes out as sharp as yours, nice job.
 
Thanks for this useful thread. I am really nervous about doing this to a new fridge, but fount the exact same model # so I'm going to follow your instructions. Any advice on putting the CO2 OUTSIDE the box? Hope mine comes out as sharp as yours, nice job.

There are a few threads on this model build, and one of them has the ideal place to drill a hole in the compressor hump to run your co2 hose to the outside, do a search and you should find it relatively easy.
 
Hi,

I just got this same fridge from Lowes (it is a discontinued model, they only had a couple left in stock!!).

Anyway, I didn't even need to remove the top, and I used a couple of filtered water dispensers on top ($50 each, lowes) and they work great.

However, this fridge will NOT, i repeat NOT fit 2 coke style corny kegs. The coke style I bought were ball-lock conversions, not actual pepsi ones which are about an inch in diameter smaller!!

Just beware, I had to go out and buy new corny kegs, and the pepsi ones are a little harder to find!! But yes you can fit 2 pepsi kegs in there.

But all in all this fridge works great, and the freezer portion comes right out with 2 screws. NICE.
 
I picked one of these up today and the threads are tremendously lengthy with a wealth of information. I would like to put a double tower toward the rear but I am still concerned about drilling through cooling lines. How have you all determined exactly where the lines run?
 
i have just finished mine today. i put a two tap tower on it but my pipe line is dry so i have a 1/4 keg of yuengling on tap right now
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Special thanks to Chris for posting this thread. I mounted a draft tower on this fridge last weekend with the advice found here. I am going to try using just copper tubing, wrapped in insulation tape, wrapped in foam to keep the lines cool with the hopes that I will not need a fan.

With this setup, what length liquid lines are people using? I probably should have switched out the lines that came with the tower before mounting, but alas, I was too excited to get the build under way.
 
This is very similar to what i plan to do this weekend! I plan to have on commercial 1/6 barrel and one corny keg. A 1/6th barrel is slightly wider (by about an inch). Do you think it is going to fit? If i can avoid carving out the compressor hump i would really like to. How did removing the light/thermostat go? Any issues?
 
What type of conversion kit should I purchase for this project? And if I plan on purchasing kegs should I buy a commercial kit verse a home brew kit? Should I get sanke couplers and will they fit? Thanks!
 
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