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My first try at an Imperial IPA... My own recipe...

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J311gonzo

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Jan 26, 2011
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Location
Akron
IMP IPA
Brew Type: All Grain Date: 4/3/2011
Style: Imperial IPA Brewer: Graham
Batch Size: 5.00 gal Assistant Brewer:
Boil Volume: 5.72 gal Boil Time: 60 min
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 %

Brewing Steps Check Time Step
4/3/2011 Clean and prepare equipment.
-- Measure ingredients, crush grains.
-- Prepare 7.40 gal water for brewing
-- Prepare Ingredients for Mash
Amount Item Type
11.50 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain
1.00 lb Rye Malt (4.7 SRM) Grain
0.75 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain
0.75 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 30L (30.0 SRM) Grain

2 min Mash Ingredients
Mash In: Add 17.50 qt of water at 161.4 F
75 min - Hold mash at 150.0 F for 75 min
2 min Mash Out: Add 11.20 qt of water at 200.2 F
10 min - Hold mash at 168.0 F for 10 min
-- Sparge with 0.23 gal of 168.0 F water.
-- Add water to achieve boil volume of 5.72 gal
-- Estimated Pre-boil Gravity is: 1.072 SG with all grains/extracts added
Boil for 60 min Boil Ingredients
Boil Amount Item Type
60 min 2.00 oz Chinook [13.00 %] (60 min) Hops
60 min 1.00 lb Candi Sugar, Clear (0.5 SRM) Sugar
15 min 2.00 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] (15 min) Hops
15 min 1.00 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 min) Misc
2 min 1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (2 min) Hops

-- Cool wort to fermentation temperature
-- Add water (as needed) to achieve volume of 5.00 gal
-- Siphon wort to primary fermenter and aerate wort.
4/3/2011 Measure Original Gravity: ________ (Estimate: 1.082 SG)
4/3/2011 Measure Batch Volume: ________ (Estimate: 5.00 gal)
4 days Ferment in primary for 4 days at 68.0 F
4/7/2011 Transfer to Secondary Fermenter
7 days Ferment in secondary for 7 days at 68.0 F
-- Add Ingredients to Fermenter
Amount Item Type
1.00 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops
 
it seems like a lot of chinook at the 60 minute mark. I tend to prefer more late hopping in my IIPA's, and not so much on the long boil.
 
i just got my scorecard back on a pale ale from the HBT competition. One of the judges recommended I get 50% of my IBUs from late addition hops. Ive since re-made my recipe and hope to brew it this week! I assume this will also apply to IPAs
 
To describe one extreme, I do not add any hops to my IIPA until after flameout (I get about 80-100 theoretical IBUs from hop extract [Northern Brewer HopShot] during the boil) and then I dryhop with 5 ounces, for 5 gallons. At flameout I have I think 7 ounces in the last variant steeping hot for about 30 minutes. This makes a beer with extreme hop aroma and flavor. You don't need to go this far, but I think you are too far on the other extreme with no "whirlpool" hops and 1 ounce of dry hops.
 
Sorry i havent posted back I've been out of town for a few... thanks for the input...

IBUs are at 113 according to beersmith.

I've decided to move 1 once of chinock to the end of the boil and dry hop with an additional once. think that'll help.

I'm confused by the adding of hops at flame out... so your saying to add hops when i'm done boiling and start chilling?
 
To describe one extreme, I do not add any hops to my IIPA until after flameout (I get about 80-100 theoretical IBUs from hop extract [Northern Brewer HopShot] during the boil) and then I dryhop with 5 ounces, for 5 gallons. At flameout I have I think 7 ounces in the last variant steeping hot for about 30 minutes. This makes a beer with extreme hop aroma and flavor. You don't need to go this far, but I think you are too far on the other extreme with no "whirlpool" hops and 1 ounce of dry hops.

I'm curious about this too. When you say: At flameout I have I think 7 ounces in the last variant steeping hot for about 30 minutes what exactly do you mean? I'm looking for this type of aroma/flavor!

Do you mean...add the hops at flame out and then shut the flame off, and let it sit for 30 minutes? OR, add hops at flame out, then cool it fast, then whirlpool it? Sorry for the questions!
 
I'm fairly certain he means that he does a hot steep. On any beer I make with a flameout addition I always do a 15min whirlpool before turning the chiller on. I feel like it adds more depth to the hop character.
 
Sorry for another question -

So you add your flameout hops, kill the flame, THEN whirlpool for 15 minutes? THEN use the chiller?

Thanks for your answers!
 
Yep, that's exactly it. I always give the hops one last good stir to get them incorporated. If I entirely rely on the whirlpool to break them up, I'll get a little float of hops on the surface.

The first time I did this method I was making a Northern English Brown. It had a bittering addition, and then one flameout addition of 21g of Fuggle. It had really awesome hoppiness throughout the beer - not just in the aroma. It tasted like I had done several 14g additions in the last 15 minutes.

I don't think the whirlpool is essential if you don't have a pump - a hot steep with a few stirs will be nearly as effective.
 
Consider adding the raw sugar at the end of the boil, like the last 5-10 minutes. You will get better hop utilization for any hops added prior to the sugar.
 
I like it... I'd keep the two oz of bittering hops in there. In my experience, you can't over bitter a II IPA. Maybe with extract or something, but I don't have any experience with it. I've used over 4 oz of high alpha hops that would put my beer at several hundred IBUs calculated, but that never translates to perceived bitterness. All my big IBU beers (200+ ibus) turned out great.

Changes I'd make.

Use the candi sugar at the end of the boil. You'll get better hop utilization from your bittering addition.

You need a few more ounces of hops. Another ounce or two for dry hopping and two ounces sometime after the 20 minute mark.
 
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