ianhoopes said:I have one and I already took a reading before sealing it all up. OG was 1.057.
You can dry hop as soon as primary fermentation is done and the beer stops or slows gassing off. Even though the airlock is bubbling the gravity may be stable but there is still CO2 being gassed off, bubbling your airlock. If you dry-hop too soon, the escaping CO2 will drive off the aroma you are trying to add with the hops. I generally wait for 2-3 weeks to make sure primary fermentation is over, then dry-hop for one more week. To make sure all the hops settle out, on day 5 of dry hop I "cold crash" in my spare fridge until bottling day.
Bierliebhaber said:It may be a little late coming and someone may have already covered this, but DON'T use your pee as a sanitizer.![]()
@JohnnyO
So you mean, boil the .5oz Centennial for 60 and do the other .5oz of Simcoe for 15 instead? May I ask why?
@Margos
My reasoning for steeping the Crystal 40L is to give a bit of freshness to the beer - from what I understand pure extract beers are never really great, just good. I thought it would be nice to have some actual grain used in the mix to make the beer fuller, although I understand it should be adding little to no gravity to the wort. Also I love the smell of fresh cracked malt.
My batch is bottled! I tasted it during bottling and the flavor profile is more like an IPA than an APA, so we'll see what it's like after 2 weeks of carbing. Everything went very well! I was afraid the kraeusen would stay on the top of the beer, but when I went to rack into my bottling bucket all was well. I'll hopefully be posting with a picture of the finished goods in a couple weeks!
@getzinator: I put the homey in during the last 15 minutes. It's raw honey, so long enough to sterilize without ruining flavor.