My first Big Beer

[Tazzster]

Hey Everyone!

I was looking to do my first big beer. Shooting for about 8%.

Do you guys have any tips for me?

This is a recipe I threw together real quick... (edited per advice below)

2 Row - 14 lbs
Vienna - 1 lb
Crystal 40 - 0.5lb
Crystal 60 - 0.5lb

1oz Cascade - 60 min
1oz Cascade - 30 min
1oz Citra - 15 min
1oz Galaxy - 15 min
1oz Citra - Flame out
1oz Galaxy - Flame out
1oz Citra - Secondary
1oz Galaxy - Secondary

2 packets of WLP001

Any thoughts or advice?

Thanks!

 

[fsr_racer]

Make sure you aerate well. I had a barleywine that stalled out on me, did my research (after the fact), and discovered that not having enough oxygen early on can cause the yeast to stall out in high gravity beers. Some even recommend aerating a second time shortly after primary fermentation begins.

 

[m00ps]

I'd cut out a lot of those crytsal malts. I'm assuming this is a DIPA? Its got 13-14% crystal malts which is way too much for a DIPA. I'd cut it to less than 1lb for sure. I prefer not to use any crystal in mine, some like a touch but that amount is going to seriously muddle the hop character. Sub like 1lb of cane sugar back in to compensate. This will also dry the beer out more and get you a nice lean body typical of the style.

Also, what are you mashing at? I'd suggest 150 at most

 

[j1n]

thats a lot of crystal malt. i would reduce it down to .5 lb. maybe just do c40.

Also why 2 packets of WLP001? just make a starter and pitch the right amount.

i would also suggest a cleaner yeast like wlp090 which attenuates & flocs better and is cleaner than wlp001.

 

[Tazzster]

Make sure you aerate well. I had a barleywine that stalled out on me, did my research (after the fact), and discovered that not having enough oxygen early on can cause the yeast to stall out in high gravity beers. Some even recommend aerating a second time shortly after primary fermentation begins.

Thanks for the tip but this has spurned more questions...

How would suggest doing this?

Right now my aeration consists of pouring back and forth between my brew pot and fermentation buckets. Should I pour it back and forth between some buckets or some other method? And when you say shortly after fermentation begins, is that when it starts bubbling? Or sooner?

 

[Tazzster]

I'd cut out a lot of those crytsal malts. I'm assuming this is a DIPA? Its got 13-14% crystal malts which is way too much for a DIPA. I'd cut it to less than 1lb for sure. I prefer not to use any crystal in mine, some like a touch but that amount is going to seriously muddle the hop character. Sub like 1lb of cane sugar back in to compensate. This will also dry the beer out more and get you a nice lean body typical of the style.

Also, what are you mashing at? I'd suggest 150 at most

I was not really thinking of any style. I actually just modified one on my amber ale recipes that I like a lot. I increased the hops over what I normally do, because I read somewhere that with larger beers your hops will be less effective. I may have a few too many in there still.

 

[Tazzster]

thats a lot of crystal malt. i would reduce it down to .5 lb. maybe just do c40.

Also why 2 packets of WLP001? just make a starter and pitch the right amount.

i would also suggest a cleaner yeast like wlp090 which attenuates & flocs better and is cleaner than wlp001.

I like crystal malts.

I have not got into making starters yet. I have only been brewing for about a year and have not made the jump.

Thanks for the tip on the WLP090, I will check it out.

 

[fsr_racer]

Thanks for the tip but this has spurned more questions...

How would suggest doing this?

Right now my aeration consists of pouring back and forth between my brew pot and fermentation buckets. Should I pour it back and forth between some buckets or some other method? And when you say shortly after fermentation begins, is that when it starts bubbling? Or sooner?

Here's a link to the thread that I read:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=247850

Good info there, but mainly depends on OG and type of yeast.

 

[misterkidd]

I'd still reduce on the crystal, personally, even if you are a fan. Got to be careful with the final gravity of these big beers - they can get a little cloying if you are not careful. +1 on mashing low, too.

 

[d3track]

So, I would suggest some sort of temp control. Bigger beers can get hot, and then you end up with lighter fluid (I may or may not have had an RIS get into the mid 70s when I first started brewing).

Even a swamp cooler will make a big difference.

 

[GrogNerd]

Thanks for the tip but this has spurned more questions...

How would suggest doing this?

Right now my aeration consists of pouring back and forth between my brew pot and fermentation buckets. Should I pour it back and forth between some buckets or some other method? And when you say shortly after fermentation begins, is that when it starts bubbling? Or sooner?

pour it back and forth one or two times more and do it again NO MORE THAN 24 hours after pitching

the yeast should still be in growth phase where they need oxygen to propagate & build up the numbers before the real fun of asphyxiating the little effers begins

agree with the others saying cut down on the amount of crystal malts

& 1 vial of WLP001 with a starter should be good, 8% isn't too big a beer for it. but I could see problems if you were trying to get above 9 or 10.

 

[Tazzster]

pour it back and forth one or two times more and do it again NO MORE THAN 24 hours after pitching

the yeast should still be in growth phase where they need oxygen to propagate & build up the numbers before the real fun of asphyxiating the little effers begins

agree with the others saying cut down on the amount of crystal malts

& 1 vial of WLP001 with a starter should be good, 8% isn't too big a beer for it. but I could see problems if you were trying to get above 9 or 10.

Thanks for the tip on the aeration!

I modified the recipe in the OP and cut down on the crystal.

I don't have a starter, is using 2 vials going to be ok?

 

[Tazzster]

So, I would suggest some sort of temp control. Bigger beers can get hot, and then you end up with lighter fluid (I may or may not have had an RIS get into the mid 70s when I first started brewing).

Even a swamp cooler will make a big difference.

This may be a problem... summer is upon us and I don't have any AC. I don't think the cloudiness of the PNW will last through June :/

 

[ktblunden]

Get one of those rope handle plastic tubs and fill it with water. Put your fermenter in there and toss in some frozen plastic bottles from time to time to keep the temp reasonable. Fermentation temperature is one of the biggest factors in the finished product. Most ale yeasts operate at their best in the mid to upper 60's. Get into the 70's and you get a lot of off flavors.

During peak fermentation wort temperature can be up to 10 degrees higher than your ambient room temperature, particularly with high gravity beers.