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Having tried adding fruit both ways (during primary, or after) I can say that adding it later preserves more of the fruit flavor.

You can ferment for a week, then rack it to the other LBK that has the fruit already added. Puree it in a sanitized blender, sanitize the LBK, then gently rack the beer (via a sanitized tube or wand) on top of the fruit. No need to stir. Cover and ferment for another 2 weeks.
 
Ok i will try it that way, the MBK I ordered now comes with a new valve that stays open. This should make it better to rack into second MBK. However this valve looks like its not going to last to long.
 
Ok i will try it that way, the MBK I ordered now comes with a new valve that stays open. This should make it better to rack into second MBK. However this valve looks like its not going to last to long.

I love the new spigots. The key is that you need to be careful not to over tighten. Put it on barely snug with the spigot to the side, then turn it down to finish tightening.
 
yep mine leaked had to file some of the keg where it was molded. but you are right that is the only way to tighten it without breaking it.
 
I've heard it said that the carbonation carbon dioxide can remove some of the fruit flavor aromatics, the same way dry-cleaning works.

That's what I've heard; I'm not an organic chemist so I'm not sure. ;)
 
Small problem, I have raspberry wheat in one MBK that I just racked over fruit last night so it has two more weeks in. Next without thinking I brewed cherry wheat and put in another MBK and want to ferment it the same way one week ferment rack over fruit cover for two weeks. Problem is I only have two MBKs is it better to leave cherry wheat in extra week in primary so two weeks in primary and two weeks over fruit in secondary ?Oh Im such a rookie. Just wanted to get another batch going without thinking.
 
Usually the best choice is to primary a beer longer. A month should be fine, so long as the yeast you used were healthy. :)
 
I just ran into the same problem with a fruit addition, without an available empty keg. I added raspberry puree into the primary after a week of fermentation. The floating puree doesn't look pretty, but I'm sure it will still make a good beer. I'll need to plan out any fruit beers beforehand to avoid the same situation. :)
 
Hello,

New member here.

I am totally new to brewing. But not to drinking beer. I am not sure that something went wrong with the beer kit that came in my new Mr Beer box. After two weeks in the tub and one week in a bottle it tastes somewhat weak. Followed the directions to a T, and the temp around here has been in the low 70's. Carb is decent and I can feel heat in my belly from alcohol and sugar but there is not much taste to the beer. I would not cry from dumping all this beer just so that I can reuse the bottles for something better. I already dumped the one beer I opened after a few sips. However there is a rumor the beer might have a better taste later on? Trust me, no one will be knocking down the walls to drink this stuff until it develops some character and some body.

I will be reusing the tub as a primary fermentation vessel (with undoubtedly better 5 gallon recipes cut in half). I don't really understand what is wrong with the tub itself. Though I can see why it would be best used as a good bottling tank.
 
Hello,

New member here.

I am totally new to brewing. But not to drinking beer. I am not sure that something went wrong with the beer kit that came in my new Mr Beer box. After two weeks in the tub and one week in a bottle it tastes somewhat weak. Followed the directions to a T, and the temp around here has been in the low 70's. Carb is decent and I can feel heat in my belly from alcohol and sugar but there is not much taste to the beer. I would not cry from dumping all this beer just so that I can reuse the bottles for something better. I already dumped the one beer I opened after a few sips. However there is a rumor the beer might have a better taste later on? Trust me, no one will be knocking down the walls to drink this stuff until it develops some character and some body.

I will be reusing the tub as a primary fermentation vessel (with undoubtedly better 5 gallon recipes cut in half). I don't really understand what is wrong with the tub itself. Though I can see why it would be best used as a good bottling tank.

Was this kit comprised of a can of HME and a pack of booster? If that is the case no amount of time is going to heal your problems. As for body developing overtime, it doesn't work that way - if the beer is thin it's going to remain thin, or in the extreme, simply become drier/thinner. You can add more body to standard MrB kits simply by adding a can of UME or two, or buying some extract from your LHBS and adding that to the wort - either way more body comes from more malt.
Happy future brews!:mug:
 
Thanks for confirming that gtlaw. The beer was disappointing and so was the process, but it was still a starting point.
 
The process should be rapid if the directions are followed, but it's more like heating up a pizza than making one. The beer is also closer to a lager, i.e., not very malt-a-licious.

Using twice as many cans (unhopped would be a good choice) will make better beer, but it's still a frozen pizza. When you do kits, and hops boils, and choose your own recipes and ingredients then you will have a much better understanding.

If you weren't satisfied with your first venture, then I say, do it again. Read some more, learn some more, and experiment some more.

There is no need to dump those beers, though: give them to someone who doesn't really care what they drink. It's still alcohol! ;)
 
For sure.. especially if we're talking about the usually included West Coast Pale Ale. When I made mine it cleared and smoothed out with time but it seemed to lose flavor over time. I had a total of 3 weeks in primary, 2 weeks warm conditioning and 1 week cold conditioning. It's amazing how quick the process becomes after you get "better" at it.

My freshman brew was the WCPA and it took me about 2 hours from opening the box to putting away the washed kitchen gear I used. (thanks to SWMBO for not putting up any fuss!) My second batch was hard cider that I just brewed last Thursday. That one seemed a lot easier and it took me less than 45 minutes from start to finish. Tomorrow will be 1 week in primary and I'll bottle it most likely on Memorial Day weekend.

I have since located a LBHS that stocks Brewer's Best gear less than 5 minutes from my office. I'm looking forward to augmenting some MB recipes with some light DME on my next brew day!
 
Experienced MrB brewers can go from can to brew keg in ~20 minutes!

It takes me a little longer. :)


I suspect that's because you don't do any refills as-is. I could probably do a refill as-is in 20 minutes, but I always doctor them up (and rehydrate yeast, etc), so it takes longer.
 
If you weren't satisfied with your first venture, then I say, do it again. Read some more, learn some more, and experiment some more.

There is no need to dump those beers, though: give them to someone who doesn't really care what they drink. It's still alcohol! ;)

I guess I was imagining something a tiny bit more like what I saw on youtube videos. The beer guy hovering over steaming mash, the deep color draining into a big old stainless steel pot, throwing hops into it like a mad hatter for an hour, painstakingly sterilizing everything in his path.. even staring at a bubbling air lock seems like fun at least for the first few minutes. But the Mr Beer keg releases CO2 invisibly without bubbles... :( Mr Beer brewing is more like making jello and calling it a day...er month.

But all things considered, Mr Beer is a gateway and an enabler. I wouldn't be where I am today without it--sitting among beautiful flip top bottles (not included in the Mr Beer kit) filled with watery beer.... and ready for more. As the saying goes, what makes beer weak only makes you stronger (okay I just made that up). I will pursue this hobby. I was hooked at the word 'beer'.

I was thinking about buying small ounces of various grains to make and make mash tea out of them each to get an understanding of what they really taste like without having to imagine based on descriptions. Like a comprehensive grain sampler.

Smelling fresh aromatic hops for the first time was also eye opening (not included in Mr Beer kit). Maybe I should get a few varieties of that and 'sniff' them out.
 
I guess I was imagining something a tiny bit more like what I saw on youtube videos. The beer guy hovering over steaming mash, the deep color draining into a big old stainless steel pot, throwing hops into it like a mad hatter for an hour, painstakingly sterilizing everything in his path.. even staring at a bubbling air lock seems like fun at least for the first few minutes. But the Mr Beer keg releases CO2 invisibly without bubbles... :( Mr Beer brewing is more like making jello and calling it a day...er month.

But all things considered, Mr Beer is a gateway and an enabler. I wouldn't be where I am today without it--sitting among beautiful flip top bottles (not included in the Mr Beer kit) filled with watery beer.... and ready for more. As the saying goes, what makes beer weak only makes you stronger (okay I just made that up). I will pursue this hobby. I was hooked at the word 'beer'.

I was thinking about buying small ounces of various grains to make and make mash tea out of them each to get an understanding of what they really taste like without having to imagine based on descriptions. Like a comprehensive grain sampler.

Smelling fresh aromatic hops for the first time was also eye opening (not included in Mr Beer kit). Maybe I should get a few varieties of that and 'sniff' them out.

If you want to make an all grain beer in the Mr Beer fermenter, you can certainly do so (I've done it and so have many others). You can't get the ingredients to do that from Mr Beer, but you can do a mash, and a full volume boil if you want. You can do anything in a Mr Beer fermenter that you can do in a 5 gallon fermenter. Except to make 5 gallons at a time. For that you need two fermenters (and you need to overfill a little).
 
I've made two (relatively) successful batches of brew with my Mr. Beer, and I thank this kit for helping me better understand the very basic aspects of brewing. However, I want to start taking baby steps towards getting away from the all-in-one package and being customizing, and after reading these forums I trust you guys more than my instruction pamphlet.

I know this is a vague question, but is there any basic advice to start customizing my wort? Should I start at a different stage first? Examples of what I'm thinking (might not make any sense) but something like 2 cans of UME and hopping it myself. Should I just get away from the Mr. Beer cans totally and buy everything for a recipe I find on here?

I'd just like to better understand step 1 and make my own wort with the equipment I have, until I'm comfortable investing more cash/time into this.

Any advice or a link to a thread would be great.

Thanks!
 
I've made two (relatively) successful batches of brew with my Mr. Beer, and I thank this kit for helping me better understand the very basic aspects of brewing. However, I want to start taking baby steps towards getting away from the all-in-one package and being customizing, and after reading these forums I trust you guys more than my instruction pamphlet.

I know this is a vague question, but is there any basic advice to start customizing my wort? Should I start at a different stage first? Examples of what I'm thinking (might not make any sense) but something like 2 cans of UME and hopping it myself. Should I just get away from the Mr. Beer cans totally and buy everything for a recipe I find on here?

I'd just like to better understand step 1 and make my own wort with the equipment I have, until I'm comfortable investing more cash/time into this.

Any advice or a link to a thread would be great.

Thanks!

People take all kinds of different approaches. I started by adding some DME, then later doing short hop boils in DME that I added.

I later started using LME (like Mr Beer UME, but I get it in bulk). At some point, I made some batches with no HME, just LME and hop boils.

Then I did partial mash and a few all grain batches.

A lot of people add steeping grains as a step before adding DME/LME/UME.
 
People take all kinds of different approaches. I started by adding some DME, then later doing short hop boils in DME that I added.

I later started using LME (like Mr Beer UME, but I get it in bulk). At some point, I made some batches with no HME, just LME and hop boils.

Then I did partial mash and a few all grain batches.

A lot of people add steeping grains as a step before adding DME/LME/UME.

Thanks that sounds like what I'm looking for. I'll start with some LME and hops then move to the partial mash. I just got a great deal on a non- Mr. Beer kit on craigslist so I'll be able to have 2 batches going so I won't be as paranoid about messing one up.

Thanks again!
 
As an FYI, there are new refills available at Mr Beer. There are also a bunch of new recipes using the new refills.
 
Ho ho ho. Very excited. I learned to relax and drink all the beer from my very first batch of beer I made with the default Mr Beer kit. It gets you drunk! My second beer is a 2.5 gallon partial mash recipe I placed in the very same Mr Beer plastic thing. Nice! After a week it already tastes pretty decent!

But... I'm worried about the plastic tap. It just looks like some nasty living microorganisms are just waiting to ruin my day, hiding up in that greasy tap. Can I reasonably clean and disinfect the tap while there's still liquid inside the tub?
 
iambeer said:
Ho ho ho. Very excited. I learned to relax and drink all the beer from my very first batch of beer I made with the default Mr Beer kit. It gets you drunk! My second beer is a 2.5 gallon partial mash recipe I placed in the very same Mr Beer plastic thing. Nice! After a week it already tastes pretty decent!

But... I'm worried about the plastic tap. It just looks like some nasty living microorganisms are just waiting to ruin my day, hiding up in that greasy tap. Can I reasonably clean and disinfect the tap while there's still liquid inside the tub?

I keep a spray bottle full of sanitizer that I use to spray up in the spigot after my initial hydrometer read. Spraying the spigot may not do anything more than put my mind at ease.

Removing and cleaning the spigot after fermenting is a must. The threads and washer get pretty nasty.
 
Right. I took a sample from the really really convenient spigot, but then I immediately felt guilty when thinking about future transfers of liquid through a dirty spigot before I am able to take it apart again. I will definitely never take a sample from the tap until I figure a way to keep it clean.
 
Right. I took a sample from the really really convenient spigot, but then I immediately felt guilty when thinking about future transfers of liquid through a dirty spigot before I am able to take it apart again. I will definitely never take a sample from the tap until I figure a way to keep it clean.
What sanitizer do you use? I keep a spray bottle with StarSan in it and use that to spot sanitize (it's a contact sanitizer, so the spray bottle is a good way to use it).
 
I get it: you are saying I have to sanitize the spigot immediate after using it? That makes sense. I didn't do that, so I figure things are growing in there as it caked up and dried slowly. Well, I'll clean/sanitize it the best I can and see what happens. Important safety tip. Oh, I use alcohol. I assume it works just as well. I haven't joined the Star San cult yet, but it's constantly knocking at the door, isn't it?
 
I get it: you are saying I have to sanitize the spigot immediate after using it? That makes sense. I didn't do that, so I figure things are growing in there as it caked up and dried slowly. Well, I'll clean/sanitize it the best I can and see what happens. Important safety tip. Oh, I use alcohol. I assume it works just as well. I haven't joined the Star San cult yet, but it's constantly knocking at the door, isn't it?

Alcohol works pretty well, but I'd trust Star-San more.
 
I get it: you are saying I have to sanitize the spigot immediate after using it? That makes sense. I didn't do that, so I figure things are growing in there as it caked up and dried slowly. Well, I'll clean/sanitize it the best I can and see what happens. Important safety tip. Oh, I use alcohol. I assume it works just as well. I haven't joined the Star San cult yet, but it's constantly knocking at the door, isn't it?

I'd suggest you join it quickly! You'll gain much peace of mind!
 
I got a partial mash recipe for MBK today a two hearted clone, i have seen in past post that it has been done. But does anybody see any trouble with it fitting in this 2 gallon MBK, and also if anybody has done this how do you know where to fill it to since there are no markings after the 2 gal point. Man my first field trip to the brew store was cool,could this mean I am kinda hooked ? :confused:
 
bdta said:
I got a partial mash recipe for MBK today a two hearted clone, i have seen in past post that it has been done. But does anybody see any trouble with it fitting in this 2 gallon MBK, and also if anybody has done this how do you know where to fill it to since there are no markings after the 2 gal point. Man my first field trip to the brew store was cool,could this mean I am kinda hooked ? :confused:

I've read that If you fill the keg up to just under the Q in quart you'll have about 2.4 gallons. I myself have never filled it that full. But I had a coconut porter overflow a bit on me with fermcap when I filled over the recommended lines. A little bit of overflow on the side of my keg is no big deal to me. I personally would split a 5 gallon kit between to kegs at 2.4 gallons each. Your brew will be a bit stronger.

Good luck, the brew store is like a candy shop, right?
 
I have a mix-matched set of equipment right now, half of which is Mr. Beer stuff. I am about to bottle about 2 gallons of brew and I have a question about the priming sugar. I'd like to boil the sugar in water this time, ever though the instructions say to put it straight in the bottle.

I've calculated the amount of sugar by extrapolating out the Mr. Beer sugar amounts per bottle.
1.) I have come up with 6 and 3/4 tablespoons or about 0.4 of a cup. Does this sound about right for 2 gallons of brew?
2.) If so, how much water should I add to the sugar when boiling?
3.) I am using 2 different sized bottles 1quart and 22oz, will this be a problem?

thanks
 
BrewByLos... yea I thought about it, I do have 2 MBKs but I want to test it out first to see if there will be any overflow problems then I will go with a 5 gal batch using both and who knows whats next. would like to get the full 2.5 in if I can I think I read a long time ago a man named revvy here did it ??
 
BrewByLos... yea I thought about it, I do have 2 MBKs but I want to test it out first to see if there will be any overflow problems then I will go with a 5 gal batch using both and who knows whats next. would like to get the full 2.5 in if I can I think I read a long time ago a man named revvy here did it ??

I wouldn't try to push the keg at 2.5 gallons with no head space and no blow off tube. You can google up some pictures of blown Mr Beer kegs.

My next upgrade will be a 3 Gallon better bottle for fermenting. That way I can split 5 gallon kits or beersmith my own 2.5 gallon recipes.

Good luck on the PM 2.5 batch if it works out, I'll jump on board too. :rockin:
 
I have a mix-matched set of equipment right now, half of which is Mr. Beer stuff. I am about to bottle about 2 gallons of brew and I have a question about the priming sugar. I'd like to boil the sugar in water this time, ever though the instructions say to put it straight in the bottle.

I've calculated the amount of sugar by extrapolating out the Mr. Beer sugar amounts per bottle.
1.) I have come up with 6 and 3/4 tablespoons or about 0.4 of a cup. Does this sound about right for 2 gallons of brew?
2.) If so, how much water should I add to the sugar when boiling?
3.) I am using 2 different sized bottles 1quart and 22oz, will this be a problem?

thanks

Check out screwybrewers priming sugar calculator. Its the only one I found that would calculate by tablespoon or weight. http://www.thescrewybrewer.com/p/brewing-tools-formulas.html
At two gallons you should be closer to 4 tablespoons for cane sugar.

I use one cup of water for a two gallon batch.

If you batch prime the bottle sizes should not matter.

I would also recommend a food scale. Measurements by weight is is a lot more precise than cups and tablespoons.

Congratz on the batch prime!:mug:
 
Check out screwybrewers priming sugar calculator. Its the only one I found that would calculate by tablespoon or weight. http://www.thescrewybrewer.com/p/brewing-tools-formulas.html
At two gallons you should be closer to 4 tablespoons for cane sugar.

I use one cup of water for a two gallon batch.

If you batch prime the bottle sizes should not matter.

I would also recommend a food scale. Measurements by weight is is a lot more precise than cups and tablespoons.

Congratz on the batch prime!:mug:

Thanks a lot for the link, that is exactly what I was looking for! Unfortunately I already bottled it before reading the post and used 6TBS, so hopefully it'll still turn out as well as my other Mr. Beer sugar in the bottle batches. I'm going to line a cardboard box with the bottles in it for sure though, lol.

My digital food scale ran out of battery power tonight...figures. Next time I'm going to use that website for sure though, thanks again.

If the beer ends up having a sweet/cider taste after 2 weeks in bottle and 2 weeks in fridge would more time in the fridge solve the problem?
 
If the beer ends up having a sweet/cider taste after 2 weeks in bottle and 2 weeks in fridge would more time in the fridge solve the problem?

No. Once you put your brew in the fridge, the yeasties that eat the sugar go dormant. If it's still sweet after that long, you'll have to warm condition (wake up the yeast) again and then cold condition again. Though doing that may introduce off-flavors.
 
No. Once you put your brew in the fridge, the yeasties that eat the sugar go dormant. If it's still sweet after that long, you'll have to warm condition (wake up the yeast) again and then cold condition again. Though doing that may introduce off-flavors.

I'm going to partially agree. At colder temperatures, the yeast will slow way down, but they'll still be a little active. But it could take months in the fridge to do what takes weeks at room temperature.

I also don't think you'll get any off flavors if you bring them back to room temperature to finish the warm conditioning process.
 
I also don't think you'll get any off flavors if you bring them back to room temperature to finish the warm conditioning process.

+1, I have done this when I had prematurely placed beers in the fridge before they had fully carbed. I noticed no ill effects or off flavors.
 
My first brew day without using MB products.... think I may have scorched malt a little, left valve open a bit while pouring wort into MBK, pissed wife off with the smell of hops, But did get 2.5 gallons in the MBK so far so good. learned a little.
 
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