Hoppopotomus
Cedar Hollow Brewing
I have been having recent issues with "creeping" pressure issues with my system. Here's my setup: 4 kegs, 4 taps, dual body regulator, 3 way manifold off of one of the regulators, 5 lb. CO2 tank, with everything housed inside of the keezer. Recently I have been having terrible issues with my PSI creeping higher and higher with my system. On two occassions over the past week, I have swapped out kegs and rearranged gas lines.
Here is my process: My new kegs go on the single line regulator for force carbing and the 3 already carbed kegs are fed by the 3 way manifold off of the other other body. I typically set the new keg at 30 psi for 24-48 hrs., then purge, set at 11 psi and forget about it for a couple of weeks. The pressue on the regulator with the 3 way manifold stays at 11 psi. Once one of the kegs off of the 3 way manifolds kicks, I remove it, swap my new keg onto the 3 way manifold, pop a new keg in waiting into the keezer and put it on the single line....an so forth. Everytime, I purge all of the kegs and then re-set both regulators.
I have been noticing lately a couple of lbs. of creeping with my regulators, so I typically set them to 9 psi for example, and they end up at 11 psi when everything settles. Over the past week, the creeping psi issue has been far worse....almost double, creeping up to 16-19 psi. I called kegconnection and they said that the diaphram isn't sealing properly. He said that when regulators are housed inside of a kegerator or keezer, they are prone to moisture build up in the regulators, which can cause the diaphram to not seal and lead to creeping pressures. They are sending me a regulator rebuilding kit.
I had a patient (and new HBT member!) offer me a 20 lb. CO2 cylinder that he got from a buddy. It's a 20 lb. Pepsi CO2 tank in nice condition. I'm trying to find someone to have the thing tested and re-certified. The 20 lb. tank is waaaay too big to fit inside of the keezer and with the regulator issues that I have been having, I'm considering moving everything outside. I have a pantry adjacent to where my fridge and keezer are going to sit where I am considering putting the tank and regulators. I would have to pop a hole in the wall to run my 2 gas lines out of the pantry, behind the fridge, up the back of the keezer, into the coffin, and down through the lid into the keezer. I'm estimating that I will need about 20 ft. long runs to allow plenty of slack to pull the keezer out to open the lid when needed.
Does the length of run on the low pressure output side matter as long as the system is tight?
I realize that temp. affects the high pressure regulator reading, but does it affect the low pressure output readings going from a cold environment to room temp?
Any insight would be great from some of the seasoned kegging veterans out there. Thanks in advance!
Here is my process: My new kegs go on the single line regulator for force carbing and the 3 already carbed kegs are fed by the 3 way manifold off of the other other body. I typically set the new keg at 30 psi for 24-48 hrs., then purge, set at 11 psi and forget about it for a couple of weeks. The pressue on the regulator with the 3 way manifold stays at 11 psi. Once one of the kegs off of the 3 way manifolds kicks, I remove it, swap my new keg onto the 3 way manifold, pop a new keg in waiting into the keezer and put it on the single line....an so forth. Everytime, I purge all of the kegs and then re-set both regulators.
I have been noticing lately a couple of lbs. of creeping with my regulators, so I typically set them to 9 psi for example, and they end up at 11 psi when everything settles. Over the past week, the creeping psi issue has been far worse....almost double, creeping up to 16-19 psi. I called kegconnection and they said that the diaphram isn't sealing properly. He said that when regulators are housed inside of a kegerator or keezer, they are prone to moisture build up in the regulators, which can cause the diaphram to not seal and lead to creeping pressures. They are sending me a regulator rebuilding kit.
I had a patient (and new HBT member!) offer me a 20 lb. CO2 cylinder that he got from a buddy. It's a 20 lb. Pepsi CO2 tank in nice condition. I'm trying to find someone to have the thing tested and re-certified. The 20 lb. tank is waaaay too big to fit inside of the keezer and with the regulator issues that I have been having, I'm considering moving everything outside. I have a pantry adjacent to where my fridge and keezer are going to sit where I am considering putting the tank and regulators. I would have to pop a hole in the wall to run my 2 gas lines out of the pantry, behind the fridge, up the back of the keezer, into the coffin, and down through the lid into the keezer. I'm estimating that I will need about 20 ft. long runs to allow plenty of slack to pull the keezer out to open the lid when needed.
Does the length of run on the low pressure output side matter as long as the system is tight?
I realize that temp. affects the high pressure regulator reading, but does it affect the low pressure output readings going from a cold environment to room temp?
Any insight would be great from some of the seasoned kegging veterans out there. Thanks in advance!
