Mineral Creek Brewery - Start to Finish e-HERMS basement electric brewery build

[jcav]

Wow, what a build thread! Beautiful brewery you got there!

John

 

[Paul_Aris]

Thanks everyone for the comments.



I have a simple video up showing the initial cleaning run and water/element test and a short pan around the brewery: https://youtu.be/YyQCI7_8WT8
I'll try and do a brew video in the future.



Not exact figures but about 4K on the room, plumbing, electrical, sink/worktables, vent hood and fixtures and about 6K on the kettles, pumps, chiller, hardware, control panel and tools/equipment/supplies.

Working on posting a brew day review from 6/25/15. Stay tuned...

Thanks for the video.

What size pots are those? Why a PID for the Chiller and mash tun? Do these just provide feed back and are not really controlling anything?

I am a manufacturing engineer. One of my coworkers runs the electrical controls engineering department. He is into brewing and helped a friend open a commercial micro brewery. I sent him the info on the electric brewery panel. He said I will be able to provide most of what I need if I don't mind used. Thinking budget I guess I don't care if its used If I can build this panel pretty cheap. I am going to start collecting parts for my E-Herms. I have 1600 square foot open unfinished basement with 9 foot ceilings to choose a spot to build my brewery. I think this is going to get expensive. It may be a few years down the road. For now my 10 gallon manual all grain set-up makes pretty good beer but desire to go more automated so I don't have to climb step ladders and transfer heavy liquids. Also the consistency really would be a nice benefit.

Yours looks great.

 

[KennyM]

Thanks for the video.

What size pots are those? Why a PID for the Chiller and mash tun? Do these just provide feed back and are not really controlling anything?

I am a manufacturing engineer. One of my coworkers runs the electrical controls engineering department. He is into brewing and helped a friend open a commercial micro brewery. I sent him the info on the electric brewery panel. He said I will be able to provide most of what I need if I don't mind used. Thinking budget I guess I don't care if its used If I can build this panel pretty cheap. I am going to start collecting parts for my E-Herms. I have 1600 square foot open unfinished basement with 9 foot ceilings to choose a spot to build my brewery. I think this is going to get expensive. It may be a few years down the road. For now my 10 gallon manual all grain set-up makes pretty good beer but desire to go more automated so I don't have to climb step ladders and transfer heavy liquids. Also the consistency really would be a nice benefit.

Yours looks great.

Thanks Paul for the comments.

The kettles are 20 gallons each: http://www.brewershardware.com/Premium-Sanitary-Fitting-Ferrule-Outfitted-Kettles

I have a switch that allows the HLT heating element to be controlled from either the HLT or Mash PID controller. Not really necessary but it gives me the option to control the HLT temperature from either the HLT temperature probe or the Mash re-circulation probe. Each controller has it's own tuning parameters and I find that during re-circulation, using the Mash PID allows for more precise control over the temperature.

I used the same PID controller for the chiller (temperature monitoring only) mainly to be consistent with the rest of the controllers on the panel and it can be used as a replacement if one of the more important controllers were to fail. A mechanical thermometer would have worked just fine on the output of the chiller as well.

<Cheers>

 

[NathPowe]

One of the most amazingly implemented and presented builds I've seen on here. Really nice work dude - you should be proud. You've inspired me to re-assess the organization of my own rig. Perhaps a project for this weekend.

Cheers and enjoy the brews.

 

[KennyM]

Thanks again to everyone for the nice comments. Have 4 batches finished so far and getting the system dialed in. Been getting about 88% mash efficiency with a .045" grain crush.

Brews so far...
Batch #1 - MoreBeer Hop Blonde (4.1%)
Batch #2 - MoreBeer Renegade Rye (5.2%)
Batch #3 - Left Hand Brewery Fade to Black Vol 1 (8.5%)
Batch #4 - Deschutes Brewery Inversion IPA (7.1%)

So far I've been very happy with the system and don't think I'd change much if I had to do it over again although I am looking at a few stainless steel conical fermenters. Bottling is a pain so I built a 4 tap keezer. See photos below...


Added an Inkbird controller to an Igloo FRF710 7.1 Cu Ft freezer...

Added a 10" collar made from 2x8, 1x10 and 1x3 pine and 1" poly foam insulation...

Perlick 650SS flow control stainless steel faucets with 4" stainless steel shanks...

Completed interior. The John Guest fittings and Bev-Seal Ultra are the only way to go...

SEA flow meters...

4 oz vials with Glycerin for Inkbird and Raspberry Pi temperature probes.

Raspberry PI 2 with Alamode board and custom made interface board for temperature and flow sensors...

Finished keezer with test run of Raspberry Pints taplist software...

 

[orangehero]

John Guest fittings and 1/4" OD polyurethane tubing for gas lines is the only way to go

 

[jcav]

Again, absolutely amazing Kenny! Top notch all the way! I have to look into those John Guest fittings for my keg system. How did you like that Renegade Rye recipe? I really like rye beers and need to find a good one to brew.

John

 

[KennyM]

Again, absolutely amazing Kenny! Top notch all the way! I have to look into those John Guest fittings for my keg system. How did you like that Renegade Rye recipe? I really like rye beers and need to find a good one to brew.

John

Thanks John. The Renegade Rye was quite good. Unusual with 5 hop types including a dry hop but smooth drinking.

 

[jcav]

Thanks John. The Renegade Rye was quite good. Unusual with 5 hop types including a dry hop but smooth drinking.

Excellent, I think I will make that one!

John

 

[IowaHomeBrewer]

Damn dude.. very impressive.

I wish I had the skill set with the electrical pieces. I'm really jealous.

You have a crazy build. Very nice job. Thank you for sharing.

 

[augiesd]

your build is awesome. i am looking to do something similar with a bcs, and would like to use something like the amp, watt, volt meter that you have on your control panel. i can't quite make out where it is from. would you please share?

thank you!

 

[KennyM]

your build is awesome. i am looking to do something similar with a bcs, and would like to use something like the amp, watt, volt meter that you have on your control panel. i can't quite make out where it is from. would you please share?

thank you!

Thanks augiesd,
I ordered the 416PVA from the following link: http://www.lightobject.com/Programm...tal-AC-Single-Phase-Power-Watt-Meter-P54.aspx

You'll also need an appropriate current transformer. I used a 20:1 which ranges the 0 - 5 amp input to 0 - 100 amp. Here's a link: http://www.lightobject.com/AC-Transformer-Shunt-100A5A-201-P100.aspx

I've been happy with the meter and the accuracy is spot on.

 

[augiesd]

Just like you referenced the other members at the beginning of your thread, I will be putting your thread at the beginning of mine.
Thanks again KennyM

 

[kshuler]

What a beautiful build. Thanks for sharing!

 

[Carlton]

Wow, nice build.

However, if you are wanting this to be up to the National Electrical Code there are a couple points you should realize.

1) The two 20amp breakers in the subpanel with the 60amp GFCI breaker that runs your brewing system are NOT themselves GFCI protected. I think these feed some receptacles in the immediate area which is wet with sinks and such. By code these branch circuits need to have either GFCI breakers or the receptacles must provide the GFCI function. I don't see that in the photos.

2) The wall with the main and subpanels seem to be blocked with shelving. By code the area immediately in front of panelboards must be free of obstruction, I don't recall the minimum distances but right now you have none.

Since the shelf unit could be moved and you can still reach the breakers you might personally decide to ignore this but not having GFCI protected receptacles in the wet area is a real safety hazard.

Carl

 

[KennyM]

Wow, nice build.

However, if you are wanting this to be up to the National Electrical Code there are a couple points you should realize.

1) The two 20amp breakers in the subpanel with the 60amp GFCI breaker that runs your brewing system are NOT themselves GFCI protected. I think these feed some receptacles in the immediate area which is wet with sinks and such. By code these branch circuits need to have either GFCI breakers or the receptacles must provide the GFCI function. I don't see that in the photos.

2) The wall with the main and subpanels seem to be blocked with shelving. By code the area immediately in front of panelboards must be free of obstruction, I don't recall the minimum distances but right now you have none.

Since the shelf unit could be moved and you can still reach the breakers you might personally decide to ignore this but not having GFCI protected receptacles in the wet area is a real safety hazard.

Carl

Duly noted Carlton and thanks for the comments...

The convinience outlets were installed with what I had on hand and should be replaced with GFCI outlets. I realize the panels do not have the 3' clearance rule in check but I worked with what space I had.

Thanks for your attention to detail....

 

[wyowolf]

fantastic build...

I have a question, I was also looking into power meters, it looks like in your pics that only one leg, black goes through the CT, wouldnt you need to measure on both hot legs?? sorry, if that sounds stupid, but all the ones I have seen only measure on one leg...

Thanks augiesd,
I ordered the 416PVA from the following link: http://www.lightobject.com/Programm...tal-AC-Single-Phase-Power-Watt-Meter-P54.aspx

You'll also need an appropriate current transformer. I used a 20:1 which ranges the 0 - 5 amp input to 0 - 100 amp. Here's a link: http://www.lightobject.com/AC-Transformer-Shunt-100A5A-201-P100.aspx

I've been happy with the meter and the accuracy is spot on.

 

[KennyM]

fantastic build...

I have a question, I was also looking into power meters, it looks like in your pics that only one leg, black goes through the CT, wouldnt you need to measure on both hot legs?? sorry, if that sounds stupid, but all the ones I have seen only measure on one leg...

Thanks wyowolf. No question is stupid...

The panel is powered by a 240 volt single phase circuit like most residential systems are. Current flows in a circuit like water flows in a pipe. What goes in must also come back out. During operation with a 240 volt load, current flows between the black and red wires alternately 60 times a second (in the USA). The current in the black wire will match the current in the red.

Because I also have 120 volt circuits in the panel (wired between the black hot and white neutral wires), that current flows between the black and white wires and not in the red. Monitoring the black wire by itself insures that you account for all the current regardless if it is flowing black to red (240 volt) and/or black to white (120 volt).

 

[wyowolf]

hmmm OK so if I also use a CT transformer in my panel, with the Volt/Am meter it will read the correct current usage? via the black wire. The only 120 I have in my panel is the 120V for the BCS. I am running a BIAB setup, to try it out mostly , if not I will go back to 3V.

Thank you very much for that info!!

Frank

Thanks wyowolf. No question is stupid...

The panel is powered by a 240 volt single phase circuit like most residential systems are. Current flows in a circuit like water flows in a pipe. What goes in must also come back out. During operation with a 240 volt load, current flows between the black and red wires alternately 60 times a second (in the USA). The current in the black wire will match the current in the red.

Because I also have 120 volt circuits in the panel (wired between the black hot and white neutral wires), that current flows between the black and white wires and not in the red. Monitoring the black wire by itself insures that you account for all the current regardless if it is flowing black to red (240 volt) and/or black to white (120 volt).

 

[KennyM]

hmmm OK so if I also use a CT transformer in my panel, with the Volt/Am meter it will read the correct current usage? via the black wire. The only 120 I have in my panel is the 120V for the BCS. I am running a BIAB setup, to try it out mostly , if not I will go back to 3V.

Thank you very much for that info!!

Frank

Yes, if your panel has the 120 volt circuit fed from the black wire then that is the wire you want to install the CT on. It will then measure all of the current drawn by both the 240 and 120 volt loads.

 

[Komocabo]

Splooey

 

[vinylicious]

Do you have a make and model number on the vent hood you used? I'm looking for something similar to fit in a small space.

Do you notice any condensation using this during a brew day?

 

[KennyM]

Do you have a make and model number on the vent hood you used? I'm looking for something similar to fit in a small space.

Do you notice any condensation using this during a brew day?

Hi vinylicious,
The hood I'm using is an XtremeAIR PX10-U48 and I've been very happy with it. I duct-ed it outside with 6" round pipe and although it's rated at 900 CFM, I never need to use it on high.

Manufacture link: http://www.xtremeairusa.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=4&products_id=557

I have had zero problems with condensation. Any that accumulates stays in the small channels of the filters and evaporates by the time the brew day is over.

 

[KennyM]

Sorry it's been awhile since I've updated this thread but I've been working on an FAA certified flight instructor certificate and I haven't had much free time.

We're on batch #9 now at the Mineral Creek Brewery and the system has been working well and we're getting to know the ins and outs. After fighting with the 6 gallon carboys on big beers and wanting something better, we upgraded to two 15 gallon conical fermetors from Brewers Hardware. So far they've been great.

Here are a few photos of recent activity in the brewery...
2 Liter yeast starter on the stirplate...

Starter after 24 hours...

Grain for a Left Hand Brewery Fade-to-Black Vol I clone...

Fade-to-Black fermentation. Need more headspace!

The Fade-to-Black turned out great at 8.6% ABV...

Grain and hop bill for a Bell's Two Hearted clone from www.theelectricbrewery.com

Raging Red wort color during the mash. Recipe from forum member @Mysticmead https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=239188

Raging Red hydrometer sample at 1.061...

Raging Red finished beer...

Heat/Cool controller for fermentor temperature jacket under construction...

A nice simple hopped up Blonde Ale...

Thanks again to everyone for the nice comments. This has been a really fun project!

 

[sarsnavy05]

Beautiful project!

I didn't see you mention it anywhere else in the thread, but what is the game plan? Is this all for your personal brewing enjoyment, or are there bigger plans for the brewery, now that your are retired?

 

[wyowolf]

Simply Perfect!! Amazing use of the space in layout and design... love the fermentors...but they look pricey What do you plan for capacity?

 

[KennyM]

Beautiful project!

I didn't see you mention it anywhere else in the thread, but what is the game plan? Is this all for your personal brewing enjoyment, or are there bigger plans for the brewery, now that your are retired?

Thank you sars,
At this point, the brewery is just for fun. I enjoy having friends and family over for brew days and we share the beer with everyone. It's amazing how fast a 5 gallon keg goes once people find out you have fresh beer.

Since retirement I've also been a part time contract pilot and will be instructing on the side too. Between that, brewing and house duties, I keep pretty busy.

 

[KennyM]

Simply Perfect!! Amazing use of the space in layout and design... love the fermentors...but they look pricey What do you plan for capacity?

Hi wyowolf,
Yea, I wish I had a bit more room as it gets a bit cozy with more than two people in the brewing area, but it's workable.

I've been making 10 gallon batches so 2 kegs a batch. I have 20 gallon kettles but 10 gallons final volume seems to work well. I could probably swing a 15 gallon batch if the gravity isn't too high.

The fermentors are 15 gallon each which works well for this size batch (plenty of head space). I tend to run the primary fermentation for about 2 weeks and then dry hop in them for a week after dumping trub and recovering yeast.

The second fermentor is helpful if I need to brew a back-to-back batch or if I want to have a high gravity beer sit in there as a secondary for a longer period of time. I've also just transferred big beers to kegs and let them age in there.

 

[wyowolf]

Very nice, I also do 10 gal batches now that I went all electric. I just have the one Blichman that i can fit in the fridge... But it is nice to be able brew more batches inside very sharp.

Hi wyowolf,
Yea, I wish I had a bit more room as it gets a bit cozy with more than two people in the brewing area, but it's workable.

I've been making 10 gallon batches so 2 kegs a batch. I have 20 gallon kettles but 10 gallons final volume seems to work well. I could probably swing a 15 gallon batch if the gravity isn't too high.

The fermentors are 15 gallon each which works well for this size batch (plenty of head space). I tend to run the primary fermentation for about 2 weeks and then dry hop in them for a week after dumping trub and recovering yeast.

The second fermentor is helpful if I need to brew a back-to-back batch or if I want to have a high gravity beer sit in there as a secondary for a longer period of time. I've also just transferred big beers to kegs and let them age in there.

 

[M25]

I really like how you have your pumps mounted. very clever. I'm assuming quite flexible because you can slide your pumps. Would you mind telling me what those rail pieces are called and where you got them? Thanks!