Blonde Ale Miller Lite (Really Triple Hopped)

[BeerPower]

Do the dryhop, it wont be over the top at all.

Yeah? I wasn't sure if it would be too much in such a light beer, but I'll go for it. Thanks for the advice!

 

[fun4stuff]

If you are entirely concerned about pH you can use "5" pH Buffer...

Except that it is pretty much universally accepted that this ph stabilizer doesn't really work and adds too much sodium/off flavor to your brews.

 

[Schlenkerla]

If your pH is close to 5.2 you don't need it. I was just throwing out the idea not knowing his water problem.

Couple acidic water with a bunch higher kilned malts you might want it to raise your pH.

 

[fun4stuff]

If your pH is close to 5.2 you don't need it. I was just throwing out the idea not knowing his water problem.

Couple acidic water with a bunch higher kilned malts you might want it to raise your pH.

https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/water-knowledge

"That evidence shows this product does produce some pH moderation in waters with high Residual Alkalinity. However, the mash pH tends to center around 5.8. While 5.8 pH is acceptable, it is at the upper end of the desirable mashing range. The evidence also shows that in waters with low Residual Alkalinity, this product shows little effect on mash pH. Since Five Star 5.2 Stabilizer is a compound with high sodium content, its use will elevate the sodium concentration in the brewing water. High sodium content can be undesirable from a taste standpoint in beer. "


"But his [the chemist] comments on it [5.2 ph stabilizer] were basically that most brewers shouldn't use it/need it and that it was put together for a particular brewery that had variable source water and no desire to make any effort to track that variability."

 

[attyindaburgh]

Still trying to get through all of the posts, so I apologize if this has been asked and answered already. Can I add the ae to the primary once the fermentation starts slowing down vs using a secondary?

 

[Schlenkerla]

Still trying to get through all of the posts, so I apologize if this has been asked and answered already. Can I add the ae to the primary once the fermentation starts slowing down vs using a secondary?

Yes, but you need to mix it in somehow. Try a teaspoon of AE dissolved in a cup of distilled water. Pitch that into your fermentor.

 

[attyindaburgh]

Awsome, will do. Thanks.

 

[Schlenkerla]

Np.

 

[BeerPower]

One week since I brewed this so I took a gravity sample today and it's down to 1.006. Tomorrow I'll rack onto the AE in secondary. I think I'm on track to get this down to a flat 1.0 😊

 

[jstaas]

Finally tapped the keg of this. Delicious and quaffable beer, exactly what I wanted/expected. Thanks for the recipe!

 

[Schlenkerla]

Finally tapped the keg of this. Delicious and quaffable beer, exactly what I wanted/expected. Thanks for the recipe!

Awesome!!!!

Pictures please.

 

[attyindaburgh]

I brewed my first batch of this and my efficiency was on the high side and I got a og of 1.039. Should I still add the amalaze enzyme?

 

[Schlenkerla]

I brewed my first batch of this and my efficiency was on the high side and I got a og of 1.039. Should I still add the amalaze enzyme?

Yes - The AE cleans up the beer and makes it dry to the bone. It's exactly what you want in this beer; very light, crystal clear, no corn aftertaste, but has a little hop flavor.

 

[attyindaburgh]

Thanks, will do.

 

[Schlenkerla]

Thanks, will do.

Just note, AE will leave a temporary acrid bitter taste for a few weeks. It clears itself up really good. Roughly two weeks.

 

[Schlenkerla]

Deleted double post.

 

[attyindaburgh]

I added the enzyme to the primary as the fermentation was slowing down, should I leave it in the primary to clean up or keg it and let it clear up (the bitterness ) in the keg?

 

[Schlenkerla]

I added the enzyme to the primary as the fermentation was slowing down, should I leave it in the primary to clean up or keg it and let it clear up (the bitterness ) in the keg?

Let it go 2 weeks at your fermentation temp.

I assume you are using a primary bucket. Typically in a carboy you can see 1000's of bubbles forming with a flashlight. It will pass bubbles every 5-6 minutes then tapers off to nothing.

Consider kegging after 2 weeks after adding the AE or if you see the final gravity bottoming out at 1.000 ~ 1.003. Remember temp compensation for the your hydrometer reading.

When you rack to your keg don't sweat any of the perceived bitterness. It disappears shortly.

It will be really crisp and clean tasting when that temporary bitter fades. The cold crash will help too.

 

[Michigan_Wolfman]

I'm thinking of trying the extract version of this recipe, and I have a quick question. Does the dry hop addition go in when primary fermenting or during the secondary fermentation with the amylase enzyme?

 

[Schlenkerla]

I'm thinking of trying the extract version of this recipe, and I have a quick question. Does the dry hop addition go in when primary fermenting or during the secondary fermentation with the amylase enzyme?

One always dry hops in the secondary. The recommendation is AE in the secondary as well.

 

[Schlenkerla]

One problem you might run into with the extract is weighing out the liquids. I have an another extract version that you might want to try. Its not exactly the same, but you might find the ingredients easier to obtain and work with in brewing. This makes a very good light beer.

Weighing out thick liquids is difficult and very messy. With this recipe you add the entire contents of both containers. 3.3lbs and 1lb.

Here it is... Millerbrau

 

[Michigan_Wolfman]

Cool! I think I'll be giving the Millerbrau recipe a try!

 

[Schlenkerla]

Cool! I think I'll be giving the Millerbrau recipe a try!

If you can't find hops with same alpha acids, its OK. I would use a noble variety like Hallertauer, Tettnanger Mt Hood, Liberty or Williamette.

This shows you good info about noble hops. http://www.eckraus.com/blog/what-are-noble-hops-v2

or you can set this to light ale and browse.
https://byo.com/resources/hops

Whatever you choose, note the alpha acids on the package. Then open the recipe in malt.io, To edit, I think you need to click on clone.

Set the AA% per the package and adjust the "OZ" at 60 minutes to hit close to 16-18 IBU.

You should be golden!

 

[Michigan_Wolfman]

The current lot of Czech Saaz pellets at my LHBS is averaging 2.3% on AA. 1.75 OZs will put the IBUs at 17.1 on the cloned recipe. That's right in the ballpark.

 

[Schlenkerla]

One week since I brewed this so I took a gravity sample today and it's down to 1.006. Tomorrow I'll rack onto the AE in secondary. I think I'm on track to get this down to a flat 1.0 😊

How's it doing now?

 

[attyindaburgh]

Kegged mine today. Got the gravity down to 1.002. Tasted the sample and it did not taste bitter! Looks like I aged it long enough! It was actually tasty even though it was flat. Let's see what some co2 does to it.

 

[Schlenkerla]

Kegged mine today. Got the gravity down to 1.002. Tasted the sample and it did not taste bitter! Looks like I aged it long enough! It was actually tasty even though it was flat. Let's see what some co2 does to it.

Co2 and cold.... It'll make you want to go mow some grass so you have an excuse to drink.

 

[attyindaburgh]

Tasty but the head is a little lacking. Maybe next brew of this, I will add a little Carapils.

 

[Schlenkerla]

Tasty but the head is a little lacking. Maybe next brew of this, I will add a little Carapils.

Did you keg? How long on gas? If you have it on gas, crank it to 14 psi at 38F. ~2.8 vol of C02. It will lace good.

http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator/carbonation.html?18304708#tag

If you have enough hops, be it bittering, late or dry. If you add enough it does the lacing job for sure. At 18 IBU bittering with the late and dry hopping, I have good lacing.

Frankly, very few beers I make get the dry hopping and I have sheets of lacing on all of my beers.

If not it, could be water chem related.

 

[attyindaburgh]

I increased the gas a bit last night so I will give it a try tonight.