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Maybe a good deal on an second regulator?

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kvh said:
I think you'd need one ball-lock valve per regulator, and then all into a header/distributor, with a pressure gage. The gages were ~$9 each, Ball valves (for that size) are the same price, and then you need the piping to run them all together and a gage still... that's probably ~$50 total. This was just under $30.

Let me try to clarify. You'll run a valve and hose barb off each secondary and those all go to their own gas in disconnect to the kegs. You can either put a single gauge on each of the secondary regs in the bank (a total of 4) or try what I suggested. If you take a gauge and adapt it to look just like gas in post that you have on your kegs, you can plug it in to any of the 4 regulator outputs via the connectors. This is like using the gauge as a temporary test set. You'd pop it on, set your pressure, pop it off.
 
Got mine a couple of days ago. I bought two. Now I'll have my main reg set at 30psi for sodee-pop and the other two at different pressures for whatever. I may go crazy and build a separate manifold for each regulator.
 
kvh said:
You didn't miss anything. I have a very very old primary regulator that came with my tank. It's funky, big, dirty, and old, but it seems to work. I can replace it down the road perhaps. I took it to my LHBS and they were a little confused by it, but I'll figure it out...

I'm mostly hoping the quick-release gas connect works without leaking. A tall order, I realize. If I end up sending them back, and maybe replacing that head dial (0-100 PSI) with... a plug, it'll knock the total cost down to about $100.

Thanks for the concern though... here's hoping!

kvh
OK - I am a complete nube at this, and looked at the photo of this setup and have some stupid questions, sorry, but here goes...
1.) why can't i see where the hoses connect to the individual secondary regs? I don't see another port, only the adjustment screw.
2.) what is the function of the one 0-100 psi gauge at the end of the line? If you have a primary gauge, don't you know what psi is being delivered to this manifold?
Sorry I am probably way off with these stupid questions. Trying to figure this. :confused:
 
WormBoy said:
OK - I am a complete nube at this, and looked at the photo of this setup and have some stupid questions, sorry, but here goes...
1.) why can't i see where the hoses connect to the individual secondary regs? I don't see another port, only the adjustment screw.
2.) what is the function of the one 0-100 psi gauge at the end of the line? If you have a primary gauge, don't you know what psi is being delivered to this manifold?
Sorry I am probably way off with these stupid questions. Trying to figure this. :confused:

You are mostly correct in your questioning of me... I *thought* the 1-100 psi gage would come in handy... it's not. I'm going to just cap that end instead. I also decided to send back the quick-release connection as I've been told it will just leak.

Also, along the bottom side of the image, there are a series of holes which parallel the ones along the top (holding the gages). If you could see the regulator now, you'd find a series of ball/check valves with barb connections for the gas lines. They weren't in yet from Northern Brewer when I took that first photo.

I'm expecting my tower, some more kegs, and other bits and pieces in this week. Hopefully by next weekend I'll have it all fully assembled and some more photos up. I'll tell you when that is...

Thanks for the cross-check.

kvh
 
Here are my plans for nearly the same setup. I am going to order most of my parts from Beverage Factory but I am going to try and price match them with another cheaper website... The prices I list in the table below would be the cheaper of the two sites. I am choosing to go with 1/4 MPT on my gas connects as dealing with barbs gets quite annoying. Let me know if you have any questions, and yes I know I obsess quite a bit about my equipment before buying it (I just like the best prices possible). And the shipping and tax will be low because I am going in on this with a friend so all the shipping is halved :rockin:.

secondary_reg1.jpg



secondary_table1.jpg
 
My secondary regulators are in, and I have been assembling the list for the parts I need to get a 4-way regulator set up. The trouble that I am having is that the primary regulator that I am using does not have the part that connects to the carbon dioxide tank. I can't seem to find one without buying another whole primary regulator setup. Does anyone know where to find one?
 
Mine just got shipped out so I should have them soon. Thanks for the picks kvh and TheFlyingBeer, they'll come in handy.
 
My secondary regulators are in, and I have been assembling the list for the parts I need to get a 4-way regulator set up. The trouble that I am having is that the primary regulator that I am using does not have the part that connects to the carbon dioxide tank. I can't seem to find one without buying another whole primary regulator setup. Does anyone know where to find one?
Go to praxair and ask for a co2 nipple for your regulator.
 
Alemental said:
TheFlyingBeer,
The gauges and check/flow valves can be had cheaper here:

http://www.kegkits.com/index.htm

for the most part, their prices on most everything are quite good.

KegKits has some good prices, and if you need a large amount of items it is run by Tom Hargrove, who is one of the guys that has quite a few auctions on ebay. Just call him and tell him what you want and see if you can get a package deal.

I should have a 23cft freezer this weekend to replace my 16cft so I changed my mind from a 6 reg's to 10. I'm sure that if you and your buddy need a total of 6 gauges, 6 check valves that he might hook you up.
 
Thanks for the link and comments Alemental and Harv, I will have to keep him in mind... it will still be a little bit before I need to purchase the parts (no kegerator while school isn't in session).
 
Thanks! I sanded it all down, which left a soft 'brushed' steel look. I was hoping the satin finish clear spray I bought would be more consistent in its coating, but whatever. You can only see the stripes from the spray in direct sunlight. Inside it's almost unnoticable.
 
I noticed on your picture that I'm not the only one who got these with rust on the adjusting screw. One even has a little corosion on the threads. Any worry about putting these in the kegerator and it getting worst? That is my only concern.
 
JnJ said:
I noticed on your picture that I'm not the only one who got these with rust on the adjusting screw. One even has a little corosion on the threads. Any worry about putting these in the kegerator and it getting worst? That is my only concern.

Nah, refridgerators should naturally lose moisture (and I just fixed my leaky condensation tray, so that helps). I'll probably scrub them down and put a drop of WD40 (just a *little little* bit) on each head to keep them OK.... Not worried in the least.

A wire-brush attachment on a power drill does quick work with rust - try that.
 
Huh.. I have a freezer for a kegerator and it does not "lose moisture" it makes it. That is why I use damprid. Just about everyone I talk to who has a kegerator has to use a product like damprid, leaving me to believe they make moisture.
 
JnJ said:
Huh.. I have a freezer for a kegerator and it does not "lose moisture" it makes it. That is why I use damprid. Just about everyone I talk to who has a kegerator has to use a product like damprid, leaving me to believe they make moisture.

Yep, I agree with you JnJ. The basic air temperature, humidity relationships make all of our freezers/refrigerators either make frost or condense water. My kegerator is out in my shed and it condenses a lot of water out of the air so much so that I need two small buckets of DampRid. The warmer the air the more water vapor the air can hold and at certain cooler temperature points or the dew point the water vapor will begin to condense out of the air and liquid water will result; on our yard in the morning it's dew and in our kegerators it is liquid water unless there is Damprid around. About the only way I know to help other than Damprid is to have a good seal and open the door as seldom as possible. I bet in Ol' San Anton you have it rough like us in Austin with the high humidity but we're not as bad as Houston. I bet those guys need gallon size containers of Damprid or Dryerite.

Off Topic, did you ever convert those two kegs I gave you? The one I kept has been working pretty well as a fermenter but someday I'll get a conical I hope; maybe if I get a bonus this year at work.
 
JnJ said:
Huh.. I have a freezer for a kegerator and it does not "lose moisture" it makes it. That is why I use damprid. Just about everyone I talk to who has a kegerator has to use a product like damprid, leaving me to believe they make moisture.

Oh, well, I guess I thought most refridgerators, (and definitely my kegerator which has a drip tray under the cooling fins and drainage tube out the back to a bottom collection tray), naturally dehumidify. I guess chest freezers are a whole nother beast entirely.

kvh
 
runhard said:
Yep, I agree with you JnJ. The basic air temperature, humidity relationships make all of our freezers/refrigerators either make frost or condense water. My kegerator is out in my shed and it condenses a lot of water out of the air so much so that I need two small buckets of DampRid. The warmer the air the more water vapor the air can hold and at certain cooler temperature points or the dew point the water vapor will begin to condense out of the air and liquid water will result; on our yard in the morning it's dew and in our kegerators it is liquid water unless there is Damprid around. About the only way I know to help other than Damprid is to have a good seal and open the door as seldom as possible. I bet in Ol' San Anton you have it rough like us in Austin with the high humidity but we're not as bad as Houston. I bet those guys need gallon size containers of Damprid or Dryerite.

Off Topic, did you ever convert those two kegs I gave you? The one I kept has been working pretty well as a fermenter but someday I'll get a conical I hope; maybe if I get a bonus this year at work.
Lucky for me, I get to keep the kegerator inside, so it's not to bad. I haven't done anything with them yet. Been real busy with other stuff. I haven't brewed in over a month. I think I'll set 1 up as a kettle and do a couple 10 gal Mini mashes before I go all grain.
 
Kvh: you're half-right; refrigerators do by their very nature remove water from the air; freezers are very very dry. But that water has to go somewhere, and it ends up froming condensation. So the air is dry, but everything else is wet :D.
 
I got 3 of these in yesterday; only one has the fable rusty screw; score! Now I just need some nipples, fittings, gauges, and a plug, and I'm in business :D.
 
I did this with 4 regulators, and I love having 4 pressures available! Caution, though all those connections are prone to leak, and those parts, while inexpensive, really add up doing several regulators!, I got a deal on cheap gauges at Grainger, but still spent about a hundred bucks before all was said and done. Was it worth it? I think so.
 
Are the perlick regulators mentioned earlier in this thread the same as these?
The part numbers are different and there is no mention of Perlick but the price is the same and they "look" the same.

Anyone confirm?

Warren
 
No, most secondary regulators are designed for 100-150 psi in. You need a second primary regulator to daisy-chain them at the tank.

[Some companies use the term secondary for a full pressure regulator that is connected to the tank with a hose.]
 
Ahh I see. So if I attached these to my current regulator (I have the one in the top pic of my post) Dialed my primary down to say 40psi I could then regulate the pressure on the secondary regs...I think...
 
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