Mash Tun Manifold Material....
- Thread starter ben2904
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LandoLincoln
Well-Known Member
Where the heck do you live? Nearly any home hardware store would sell the stuff.
Copper would be my second choice.
Avoid zinc and brass fittings. Stainless steel is best.
Copper would be my second choice.
Avoid zinc and brass fittings. Stainless steel is best.
I use copper and think it's great. It's almost all slip fit, and other than the drilling and deburring was pretty simple to cut and put together.
Maybe you lost what I sent you a few days ago:
Home Depot/Lowe's/your local plumbing supply should have these. Very common.
11 Ts 1/2" - (1 bag of 10) + 1 loose.
4 end caps 1/2"
10' 1/2" CPVC - there will be some left over.
I think it was under $7 in total.
You can cut the slits with a Dremel, hack saw, radial arm saw, circular saw, etc. you don't want the kerf too wide. 1/16-3/32" works fine.
There's no advantage to go larger diameter than 1/2", it may not even fit as the Ts get larger with size.
The bulkhead part can be trickier, unless, as I posted before, you can fit a vinyl or silicone hose through the existing drain hole. I think it was 7/16" OD for vinyl, but 1/2" OD silicone may work if you have it, haven't tried that. It should just fit, like very tight. Then a drop of glue or silicone will seal it off if you feel the need. It may not be needed if it fits very tight; it creates its own seal. That would take a lot of work out of the conversion job, and you don't have to buy a bulkhead, saving $12+. Which means you can mash sooner.
Home Depot/Lowe's/your local plumbing supply should have these. Very common.
11 Ts 1/2" - (1 bag of 10) + 1 loose.
4 end caps 1/2"
10' 1/2" CPVC - there will be some left over.
I think it was under $7 in total.
You can cut the slits with a Dremel, hack saw, radial arm saw, circular saw, etc. you don't want the kerf too wide. 1/16-3/32" works fine.
There's no advantage to go larger diameter than 1/2", it may not even fit as the Ts get larger with size.
The bulkhead part can be trickier, unless, as I posted before, you can fit a vinyl or silicone hose through the existing drain hole. I think it was 7/16" OD for vinyl, but 1/2" OD silicone may work if you have it, haven't tried that. It should just fit, like very tight. Then a drop of glue or silicone will seal it off if you feel the need. It may not be needed if it fits very tight; it creates its own seal. That would take a lot of work out of the conversion job, and you don't have to buy a bulkhead, saving $12+. Which means you can mash sooner.
Wouldn't it be nice if users must have their location filled in before they can post new threads?
Stealthcruiser
Well-Known Member
Indeed it would!
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Well, I live in Israel....
And I didnt miss what you sent me few days ago, I just cant find any CPVC store so i asked which material can be an alternative for it. besides copper. Manifold and Bulkhead and all valva installation
And I didnt miss what you sent me few days ago, I just cant find any CPVC store so i asked which material can be an alternative for it. besides copper. Manifold and Bulkhead and all valva installation
LandoLincoln
Well-Known Member
Do they have any plastic plumbing parts in Israel? Any kind of plastic plumbing that's rated for hot water? Pex plumbing, maybe?
lpdjshaw
Well-Known Member
Copper exposure is supposed to be good for your beer, something about trace elements that benefit the yeast I think. I had a copper manifold in my cooler MLT for years with no problems.
By the way, I went to Israel almost three years ago - beautiful country, one of my favorite places I've ever been.
Happy brewing
By the way, I went to Israel almost three years ago - beautiful country, one of my favorite places I've ever been.
Happy brewing
horseinmay
Well-Known Member
I'll second the copper. It's easy to use, good for your beer, long lasting, not plastic, etc.
Is there any good reason you would not like to use copper? Aside from stainless, it's the best material for this, and much less expensive.
Is there any good reason you would not like to use copper? Aside from stainless, it's the best material for this, and much less expensive.
Bithead
Well-Known Member
Something like this is used quite often. Toilet Supply Line, Material of Construction Braided Stainless Steel
Most copper fittings go together tightly enough that you won't need to solder them, just push them together.
If they are a bit loose, a very, very small distortion of the tubes, by making them just ever so slightly oval, or just a tiny burr on the ends from needle nose pliers, provides the needed tightness.
They are much easier to clean when you can take it apart. Some people solder the very small bits and pieces together, but leave the big sections loose. Use lead free solder if you decide to go that route.
I just used slip fit pieces. If they were a bit too loose, I just jammed it onto a tapered piece of steel (had laying around work) to enlarge the one side. There must be stuff laying around that could do that. The only part that was soldered was the threaded adapter that lets me attach a hose barb to the outlet. The rest stays put until I'm done brewing and then I pull the end off to rinse it out.
