• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Mash PH

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Yankeehillbrewer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2008
Messages
1,560
Reaction score
39
Location
Meridian, ID
Do any of you check your Mash Ph when you brew? I never have, but am thinking that I should start paying attention to it. I've heard that an improper Ph can take away from the Hoppiness of a beer.

Thoughts??

Thanks, Mike
 
It can also affect your extract efficiency. It depends on your water source and recipe, but some people have noted that a change in mash pH has increased their efficiency by more than 10%.

I used to mess with pH strips and try to adjust with salts or acid. But now I just toss in some Five Star 5.2 pH buffer and forget about it. That's great stuff, and it will automatically dial in your mash pH to an optimum range for most recipes and water sources.

Regardless, it is good to understand the theory and mechanics of pH in the mash so that you know how to properly wield a product like the 5.2 buffer. It is rare, but occasionally you hear of someone misusing it to the detriment of their beer.
 
+1 to FlyGuy. I've never heard of it affecting "hoppiness", just mash efficiency. It's more a lack of certain minerals that can affect perceived hop bitterness in certain styles of beer. But that can be corrected by adding minerals to the boil. If your water is low in minerals, for example, and you're brewing a stout, you'd want to add gypsum, etc. to the boil. Low mineral water can be good though because that usually means the pH is relatively low too, which can be good for the mash.

The main thing to do is to find out what your water pH is (typically). If it is "normal" (upper 6's - low 7's), you'd want to either do an acid rest or use 5.2 pH buffer. Personally, I lucked out. My well water pH is ~5.7, so the mash can lower its pH pretty easily to the low 5's. So, I never correct mash pH and get high 80s to low 90s brewhouse efficiency.
 
Great info. What is the best method of testing mash PH? When during mashing do you test it? I have heard that papers do not give good results. Is there another cost effective product that works well?

Alan
 
Great info. What is the best method of testing mash PH? When during mashing do you test it? I have heard that papers do not give good results. Is there another cost effective product that works well?

Alan

Best: pH meter. One good enough for brewing should be well under $100.

other than that or strips or something substantially identical to strips I don't think there are other options.

I don't see why strips wouldn't be reliable. You just need strips that hit a lot of points between 4 and 6. Half point increments are way too wide.
 
Awesome replies, thanks for the great feedback. I made a Pale Ale a while back and couldn't seem to get the bitterness to come through, with 2oz of Centennial. I asked my LHBS about it, and they suggested checking my mash Ph.

Time to get some strips to check my well water, and my mashes for the next few brews. I'm doing another Pale Ale soon and a Stout not too long after. It will be interesting to see how the different grains effect the Ph.

Thanks Again, and keep'em coming
 
Ph shouldnt affect hoppiness but it does impact overall flavor if its really high or low. I have read that sulfates add to the perception of bitterness and if you use water salts like gypsum or epsom to control Ph they will impact the hoppiness.
 
Hop bitterness can be harsh if your water is high in bicarbonates. A side effect of high bicarbonates is a high pH (over 6) in your last runnings. Using softer water (diluting with RO water helps) corrects both problems.
 
Hop bitterness can be harsh if your water is high in bicarbonates. A side effect of high bicarbonates is a high pH (over 6) in your last runnings. Using softer water (diluting with RO water helps) corrects both problems.

Amen, brother. My first light colored all-grain beer was near undrinkable due to my well water. Lesson learned - now I dilute with distilled water for lighter beers.

ColorpHast pH strips work well for me - around $10 to $20 for a box of 100. Try eBay or do a web search.

pH indicator strips

Here's a link to some pH papers. I have not used these but they should do the job.

pH Papers by Fil-Chem
 
Amen, brother. My first light colored all-grain beer was near undrinkable due to my well water. Lesson learned - now I dilute with distilled water for lighter beers.

ColorpHast pH strips work well for me - around $10 to $20 for a box of 100. Try eBay or do a web search.

pH indicator strips

Here's a link to some pH papers. I have not used these but they should do the job.

pH Papers by Fil-Chem


Thanks!! That helps a lot:mug:
 
Yes, mash pH can effect hoppiness. This happens through its effect on the boil pH. The lower the boil pH, the lower the bitterness extraction from the hops as the a-acid solubility decreases with the pH. But I wouldn't mash with a high mash pH just to get a high boil pH and better hop utilization. A mash pH of 5.4 - 5.6 (cooled sample) and the same for the boil pH are about perfect. If the bitterness is to low, I'd rather add more hops as I heard that a higher boil pH may create more bitter beers but with a rather harsh bitterness.

Kai
 
Back
Top