Making a 2 Gallon Mini MLT

[onecolumbyte]

Just a little clarification. Are you guys are using the braid for filtering corrcet? It's not all just running in the end right?

 

[skifast1]

Yes - I proved this out in testing the watertightness of my cooler. Opened the valve and was surprised at how much flow I got coming through the braid (I'm using the same FloodSafe braid as Ninkasi and have the other end plugged). It's a tight weave but there's enough surface area to provide a healthy flow.

 

[Schlenkerla]

From the original list; (My Suggestions for easier shopping & assembly are in blue!!!)

1. Watts A-294: Barb to MIP Adapter (the piece that screws into the valve) = $2.10
2. 3/8" Brass Valve (with 2 female ends to screw the fittings into) The most "expensive" part at just over $6.
3. Watts A-785: Brass Pipe Nipple. You can't see it from the pictures. It's what connects the valve to the other adapter on the inside of the cooler. = $1.52
4. A washer that will go over the nipple on the outside of the cooler...whatever size will fit for your setup. = $0.25 (Use 2 16mm ID washers stacked together)
5. Another washer on the inside. = $0.25 (Use soft plastic garden hose gaskets)
6. Watts A-298: Barb to FIP Adapter. It screws into the nipple. You can't see the actual barb from my picture. It is covered by the SS braid. = $2.33
7. Watts FloodSafe Auto Shutoff Connector: you can use ANY SS braid that will fit inside your cooler. I picked this one beause the braids were so tight I thought it would give me a clean vorlauf/sparge...it did! = $4.69 (Have the store clerk cut the ends off with a PVC Cutter!)
8. A little clamp (2 Hose Clamps Size 1/4-5/8) to tighten the SS braid to the barb. = $0.79
9. Use a 1/2" push-in brass barb plug to plug the end of the braid along with a hose clamp (1/4-5/8")​

I had to shop around to find this stuff... Now this is everything you specifically need so it should make it easier. At Lowes, I had to go to the bulk parts bins w/ nuts bolts and washers to find the 16mm washers. Gardening for hose gaskets.

I did a water leak test... w/o teflon tape, forgot it... No leaks though.

 

[clindt]

I just wanted to thank everyone on this post for helping me get the courage and knowledge to do a PM. I finished making an Imperial IPA.

I bought a 5 gal. Igloo at Walmart for $16 and completed the MLT with parts from the local hardware store for about another $20. I didn't know that this could be so easy to build and do.

I ended up getting 70% efficiency out of the PM. Man, I can't wait to do an AG batch next. Thanks again!!!

 

[TRNDRVR]

Awesome TRNDRVR! Please let everyone know how your first PM goes.

Well believe it or not, (being sick and work) I just did my first PM.

Did an AHS Devil's Brew Belgian Ale.

I added a little part to my manifold though. Hard to explain, but I added a small piece of copper tubing in the braided water line. The end result is that the opening is now on the bottom of the cooler and I get more liquid off the bottom.

Can take a pic if need be.

Thanks again!

 

[Ninkasi]

I just wanted to thank everyone on this post for helping me get the courage and knowledge to do a PM. I finished making an Imperial IPA.

I bought a 5 gal. Igloo at Walmart for $16 and completed the MLT with parts from the local hardware store for about another $20. I didn't know that this could be so easy to build and do.

I ended up getting 70% efficiency out of the PM. Man, I can't wait to do an AG batch next. Thanks again!!!

PMing definitely helps to make the bridge between extract and AG. I was in the same position as you...just needed some courage and a push.

Your efficiency % is similar to mine. I have been getting 70-75% through batch sparging. What % is everyone else getting with their mini MLTs? I hear people getting in the high 80s with their AG batches using fly sparging. I am not getting that high of an efficiency...not that it matters too much when we are talking about 3-5 lbs. of grain but I was curious if everyone else was getting that ~70-75% efficiency with their mashes...?

 

[FlyGuy]

I have been getting 70-75% through batch sparging. What % is everyone else getting with their mini MLTs? I hear people getting in the high 80s with their AG batches using fly sparging. I am not getting that high of an efficiency...not that it matters too much when we are talking about 3-5 lbs. of grain but I was curious if everyone else was getting that ~70-75% efficiency with their mashes...?

I just did a 3 gallon mash in my mini-MLT, which is a 3 gallon cooler lined with a big grain bag. I have been pushing the limits of my crush, making the grind finer and finer. I hit the limit on Sunday, and kept getting repeated stuck sparges (not an issue with a grain-bag-lined cooler -- you just stop the flow, yank on the bag a bit to get things unstuck, and recirculate). Anyways, to make a long story short, I calculated my efficiency to be 84%.

But it wasn't worth it -- I backed off on my grinder and will crush coarser and accept a bit lower efficiency. The hassle is not worth it.

 

[paddy21]

Two ?'s -
1> What's the difference between a partial mash and extract with grain? It seems like and EG could be implemented just the same as PM.

2> I'm one of the many who plan to go AG so I bought a 5 gal liquid cooler.
Should I use the braided stainless on the inside for filtering the grain or is there a better method for these larger coolers?

Thanks,
Paddy

 

[cpbergie]

How is everyone seperating the SS braid from the connections on the end, and the tubing on the inside? I started cutting the ends off with a saw, and i dont see how im going to get the inner part out. Did i mess something up here?

 

[FlyGuy]

How is everyone seperating the SS braid from the connections on the end, and the tubing on the inside? I started cutting the ends off with a saw, and i dont see how im going to get the inner part out. Did i mess something up here?

Cut the ends off first, then grab the inner flexible hose with some needle nose pliers. Then PUSH the braid off, don't try to pull it. It should just slip off. Just don't poke yourself too badly on the frayed ends of the SS hose.

 

[skifast1]

I cut the ends off with some angled wire cutters (aka diagonal cutters) - just took some extra-hard squeezing. When I did the 1" braided line for my 10-gal, I used straight tin-snips. I really had to work at it, but I could hear the individual strands breaking so I knew I was making progress. Other folks have had good success with a dremel and a cut-off attachment, and still others have used an X-acto knive to poke through the braid and perforate the inner tube all around the perimeter to make the final cutting easier. Once you get the braid pushed off the liner tube, be careful not to kink it - it's just about impossible to smooth it out (if you're picky about that sort of thing)

 

[Tophe]

Picked up a 3 gallon cooler today at wally world for $16. Going to pick up the rest of the parts this weekend.

Still trying to understand the concept of this......This will be used as a combo, a mash tun, and a lauter tun correct?

 

[skifast1]

You got it - a 3-gallon will let you do partial mashes, but I think you'd want a 5-gal for AG batches. See this excellent BYO article on how to put it to use:

http://byo.com/feature/1536.html

 

[Tophe]

Thanks! Yeah im just going to do partials for now....It will probably get me into the AG though.

 

[Reidman]

Sweet! This is exactly what I need to make. Thanks for posting..

One quick question...what's the max amount of grains I can mash with a 2 gallon setup like this..?

how about a 3 gallon setup..?

Thanks!

Edit- Never mind, long thread never got off the first page..duh..

 

[Orfy]

Check out the wiki. I've put in this content.

Any edits required or further information to add, please feel free.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Making_a_Partial_Mash_mash_tun

 

[skifast1]

Thanks! Yeah im just going to do partials for now....It will probably get me into the AG though.

If you're anything like me you'll do exactly 1 partial batch before catching the AG bug

 

[casebrew]

I don't see the need for a specific MLT. I mash in a rectangular cooler without any spigot, then use a sauce pan to ladle it into my bottling bucket.

I did make a braid gismo to go inside the bucket. I used a rubber stopper from the HBS, that fits the inside of the spigot. I used a piece of 3/8 erso copper tube, bent on the far end and cut to fit across the bucket. Then the braid over the end of the copper. I did put a stainless steel spring inside the tubing end of my braid, to prevent kinking. In use, I slide the stopper up the tube, insert the tube into the spigot, then push the stopper down the tube into the spigot. The length of the copper keeps the tube in place, across the bottom of the bucket. Then I use a grain bag in the bucket. Ladle the hot wort in, fly sparge with no sprinkler, just the end of the hose to play fireman with . After the sparge is done, I can lift the full bag of hulls out, and dump the rest of the wort from the bucket into the kettle. No wort wasted, no extra fittings to buy. No MLT to store.

 

[Uncle Argyle]

I was at Home Depot looking for the SS braided line and all I could find was the Watts FloodSafe Auto Shutoff Connector but they all said SS connectors and then something about polymer engineered braid...is this the right hose?

I saw others that were ss braid, but they were sold in 10' lengths.

Was there a part no. that i could look for?

 

[Tophe]

I have a question, just want to make sure I do this right when I brew my first PM.

......Doing it this way, with this setup doesnt involve steeping the grains on the stove, instead I'll be adding my few pounds of grains right into my cooler(I'll preheat it) and adding my water (which should be about 170 or so so it drops to the proper temp after it mixes with the grain). Then if my temp is on, I just let it sit there for a half hour or whatever beersmith tells me to, drain it out and sparge with some 170* water.

On beersmith, it has the mashing options. This is a batch sparge correct? If i remember right, it had two step temps...I think a step in, and step out or something like that. I assumed the higher one is giving you the temp of the water to add to the grains.

Hope I can get some good answers here, otherwise I'll try a diff. forum.

Thanks!

 

[skifast1]

I was at Home Depot looking for the SS braided line and all I could find was the Watts FloodSafe Auto Shutoff Connector but they all said SS connectors and then something about polymer engineered braid...is this the right hose?

My local Home Depot had two types of FloodSafe hoses, and of course I didn't look closely and ended up buying the polymer one. It wasn't until after I cut it that I realized it was a little to 'soft' to be SST. (Doh!) Went back and found the SST version on the next shelf down. Sorry I don't have the part number, but it was definitely a FloodSafe hose (kinda pricey too). FWIW, if you're doing a 10-gal MLT as well (and why not), a 24-inch 1" diameter braid makes a great loop and gives you lots of surface area. See Palmer's How to Brew book - it has some great pictures

 

[Uncle Argyle]

I poured back over the 10gal MLT project by Fly-Guy, then followed his link to his website for some high res pics. I cropped the Watts tag for the SS hose...I thought someone else might need the info. I know I am goign to print this out and take it to the store.

 

[FlyGuy]

The FloodSafe hoses have an extra check valve that shuts off the water flow in case of a water line rupture. You will pay extra for this feature, and you don't need it since it is only the SS braid you want. Look for the plain old hoses, like the one I used. You might also consider getting one that is longer or thicker in diameter -- the one I bought works, but some prefer bigger braids.

 

[skifast1]

...You might also consider getting one that is longer or thicker in diameter...

Words to live by

 

[lgtg]

I bought everything to make the MLT! I found a three gallon though and figure that I will have a little room to "grow". I'm still going to upgrade in time to five or ten gallons, but many of you know that I'm constrained to brewing half batches until the end of the year. I figure I can handle most porters and wheat beers in this volume.

Thank you, thank you for the comprehensive and illustrated parts list and directions. I found every item (except the two washers) without a hitch! I will put it together tomorrow and brew my first PM on Saturday night (An oatmeal stout at 5.9% proposed ABV)

You guys are great, thanks again. I will follow up with the progress and results.

 

[Uncle Argyle]

I found stainless steel washers at Home Depot. If I remember, I can scan the package in and post it for reference...the packaging was orange if I recall.

I had to buy 5/8" stainless steel, "make your own bolt" kit, or something like that. Basically it was a couple of pieces of threaded rod, lock washers, flat washers and bolts...about 2 or 3 bucks. It was in the nuts and bolts section...but it was the only stainless steel washers I could find that were the right size.

Not sure if that made any sense, but I know a lot of people were looking for washers at the ol' Home Depot.

 

[HCNate]

Picked up the remaining parts to make one this afternoon, can't wait to use it tomorrow! I am extremely excited to see how it compares to the "Countertop Partial Mash" method on BYO, which I did last time. Hopefully it will be a bit easier.

I went ahead and went with the hose gasket on the inside + the internal gasket that came with the cooler and it seems to work fine. (at least it is holding water now). I am going to let it rest with water in it overnight to make sure that it all works.

Man, its cool. :rockin:

 

[Tophe]

It is very cool man....I cant wait to make my second PM tomorrow in mine. It went sweet last time. Only bad thing is it is going to be like 30 degrees out tomorrow.

I'll have to be sure and get a good buzz on before brewing so I dont feel the cold!

 

[HCNate]

Noticed you were from the 'Zoo. I usually spend about a week a year up in Plainwell and always make the pilgramage down to Bell's. My future plan is to make it a pilgramage up to Founder's because I love there stuff.

Last year was not such a good pilgramage, bought a couple bottles of the Batch 7000. My future brother-in-law and I about died.

 

[jpsloan]

I put together one of these suckers with a 2-gallon Rubbermaid cooler (I got that one for $10), and it holds water just fine. However, it's not holding temperature as well as I'd hoped. I did a test with 160 degree water, and in one hour, it lost 12 degrees. I think it's leeching heat through the lid, which is just a single thickness of hard plastic... not insulated. I'm going to try to cover the lid with a towel or something and try again.