magnetic collar removal on keezer?

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PDX_Jedi

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Building my second keezer, going bigger, and correcting several mistakes made in my first. Looking at the new freezer I had a thought: could I remove the top plate/collar around the top edge of the freezer; the one that the lid sits on and seals to; build my wood collar up on whatever lives underneath that; and then cap the wood & foamboard with the original seal that I'd pulled off? It would provide a nice clean look when the keezer is opened, it would be contoured exactly as I need for maximum temperature retention at the top, and it would provide the magnet something to hold on to. My biggest concern is that I take the time & effort to cleanly pry it off, only to discover some setup under it that is completely unusable for building a collar on top of. Worse yet if that happens and I couldn't manage to re-adhere what I'd removed well enough, I'd be left kicking myself for trying to be too clever.

What I'm asking is, has anyone pulled this off, what's generally underneath, and is my idea a viable one or have I not seen this done for a reason? Thanks in advance.
 
If the top plate you're talking about is what I think it is, it's probably not a good idea. But a picture of what you're calling the top plate might help.
 
No doubt the OP is referring to the plastic cap atop the chest freezer cabinet that covers up the cavity between liner and skin.
Even if that could be removed without damaging the cabinet, one would be left with a cavity all the way around the top of the cabinet.
Then what?

Cheers!
 
Ah, so there is a cavity. I had some suspicion that might be the case, but no knowledge one way or the other besides a gut instinct of "sounds great don't do it." Thanks for the quick response!
 
I saw an episode of "How It's Made" about 20 years ago that showed a chest freezer being build (including all the metal folding and assembly and stuff). You can probably find a similar video on Youtube, but basically you start with the exterior cabinet, drop in the combination evaporator/condenser assembly, then drop in the liner assembly, tweak everything to get it lined up, then foam the cavity, then apply the cap rails and gap fillers.

Then the compressor and receiver/drier assembly is loaded, tubing soldered together, system purged then filled. Last step is bolting on the lid. All that happens amazingly quickly in the video...

Cheers!
 
i thought about going this route as well - because that top plastic piece is contoured, I thought I would get a better seal for my collar as it would lay more flat. But I think I would end up destroying the plastic piece during removal.
 
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