Looking for heatstick(s)

[Buford]

I picked up one of those, tried it on one batch, and returned it. It's impact was negligible... with two you might be on to something. I just think 1000w is too low (unless you are doing small batches).

Our homebrewer from Alaska also tired these I believe with the same response to them as myself.

Just my .02.

I just built a ~950W 110V low-density heatstick from a 4.5kW 240V element, and by itself it really doesn't do much. What I really wanted it for, though, was to just give a minor boost to the boil to keep it rolling (my stove seems to max out around 212 F on 7 1/2 gallons, it'll boil but not vigorously), and maybe as a way to gently heat the mash. With my stove on max, the 2kW sticks I had were way too much power and also had high-density elements so they would sometimes scorch the wort.

I've tested it in water, and it does heat, albeit slowly. Granted, that's what I was aiming for. By itself it likely couldn't get water over 170 or 180 or so, but I made it to use with a stove that's providing the bulk of the heat.

My new stick:

It's a weird shape, but it fits in my Boilermaker with the bottom of the "foot" resting on the bottom of the pot and the handle against the rim.

 

[The Pol]

I just built a ~950W 110V low-density heatstick from a 4.5kW 240V element, and by itself it really doesn't do much. What I really wanted it for, though, was to just give a minor boost to the boil to keep it rolling (my stove seems to max out around 212 F on 7 1/2 gallons, it'll boil but not vigorously), and maybe as a way to gently heat the mash. With my stove on max, the 2kW sticks I had were way too much power and also had high-density elements so they would sometimes scorch the wort.
I've tested it in water, and it does heat, albeit slowly. Granted, that's what I was aiming for. By itself it likely couldn't get water over 170 or 180 or so, but I made it to use with a stove that's providing the bulk of the heat.

My new stick:

It's a weird shape, but it fits in my Boilermaker with the bottom of the "foot" resting on the bottom of the pot and the handle against the rim.

So it is true? Scorched wort? Some ppl swear it never happens. Was it noticeablu schorched, or was it more or less a darkening of the beer?

 

[ScubaSteve]

I'd unplug the heatstick, let it cool, then taste the element before you clean it after a brew. Sounds stupid, but I bet it'll give you a good idea if you're scorching wort.

FWIW, I've direct fired my mashtun a few times on low heat and never noticed a thing; nor could I see any evidence of scorched wort on the bottom of the keg.

 

[Buford]

So it is true? Scorched wort? Some ppl swear it never happens. Was it noticeablu schorched, or was it more or less a darkening of the beer?

If I had too much protein in the wort, like when I used rye and had a badly stuck mash, I got scorching from hell. I mean there was sizzling black crud on the element.

Other batches, I had no problem other than it boiling a little too vigorously if the stove was also on max - it would splatter wort out of the pot. It was just too much heat for the size batches I do.

Using it in the mash was a BAD idea, it would cook grain to itself. It wasn't the total wattage that was the issue as much as the element was just too high-density. The whole loop was only 14 inches long, so it was putting out over 100 watts per inch - and if you've ever tried touching a 100 W lightbulb when it's on you know that's pretty damn hot. My newest stick only does 20 W or so per inch over 48 inches so it should avoid this issue.

 

[The Pol]

Cool cool, I use a 5500W element in my BK that is an ultra low watt density element. Seems to do just fine.

 

[Rudeboy]

I just bought two of these from a supplier in Canada. I think they are a pretty good deal -- the pair were $90, including shipping. So about the same cost as making them yourself (yes, those parts are getting expensive).

Here's a picture.

I plan to use them in my HLT to bring strike water and sparge water up to temp. I will also throw them in the boil kettle to get things moving a little quicker, too.

I only have 15 amp circuits to work with, so I thought 1000 watts each was about all I can manage. I have two circuits in the garage and two on my kitchen countertop, so these should work well for brewing in either location. I really like the stainless guard around the heating element to help prevent me from burning a hole in my cooler.

I believe they have an auto-shutoff, which is a nice safety feature as well. I am not sure if you can boil water with these or not, but I don't need them for anything hotter than about 180 F. Seemed like a good deal.

Hey FlyGuy have you used this yet. I just got one from the local Coop.

It doesn't really have much of a handle. Is that an issue?

One of the reasons I got it was to heat up my Mash if I'm a little low. Any one ever done this. I take it you need to move it around so as not to scortch the grist. But how much? Constantly? Or just make sure not to leave it stationary for five minutes type thing?

Thanks

Rudeboy

 

[FlyGuy]

Nope, haven't tried them yet. Brewing gear is still in storage.

Sorry man.

I had a good look at them, though -- they appear to be a low density element, meaning that they shouldn't scorch too easily. A bit of stirring will be advisable, but I don't think you have to entirely babysit them.

 

[JVD_X]

If I had too much protein in the wort, like when I used rye and had a badly stuck mash, I got scorching from hell. I mean there was sizzling black crud on the element.

Curious - are you doing full boils?

 

[Buford]

Curious - are you doing full boils?

Yes, usually around 7 1/2 gallons.

 

[wilserbrewer]

In my experience, an element used to heat the mash should be in constant motion to avoid scorching. I have done it when undershooting strike temp.

 

[ScubaSteve]

Hey FlyGuy have you used this yet. I just got one from the local Coop.

It doesn't really have much of a handle. Is that an issue?

One of the reasons I got it was to heat up my Mash if I'm a little low. Any one ever done this. I take it you need to move it around so as not to scortch the grist. But how much? Constantly? Or just make sure not to leave it stationary for five minutes type thing?

Thanks

Rudeboy

I have this very model of bucket heater. It doesn't really have a handle, what you see is what you get. It won't be hot, so it doesn't matter, just keep it a few inches out of the water. I use it in combination with a timer, so I can start it heating in the early morning hours. Then, I finish the HLT off with a burner. I suppose I could get to 180+ with 2 heaters on separate circuits. I used mine in a 40F garage, heating a 10 gallons of 40F water in a keg. That's a lot of water to raise in temp.....I managed to get it to 140F before it plateaued. In a warmer environment and with keg insulation, I bet I could get it to strike temps in a few hours.

 

[Rudeboy]

I have this very model of bucket heater.

Ever use it in the mash?

Thanks

Rudeboy

 

[lustreking]

Ever use it in the mash?

Thanks

Rudeboy

I tried it once, and too much grain stuck between the shield and the element to make me feel comfortable about doing it more.

 

[ScubaSteve]

Ever use it in the mash?

Thanks

Rudeboy

Nope. I just used mine to heat water.

Why do you want to raise the temp of the mash? Step mashing is frequently talked about but most malts are so well modified that you don't really need to do it. If you have an efficient MLT, you can hold temp within a degree for well past an hour.

 

[HomebrewJeff]

... you don't really need to do it.

Pfft... yea, like that's going to stop us from doing it.