London ESB 1968

[smizak]

I'm surprised you know of The Mountain Goats, the band, at all. I have an unhealthy obsession with the man's music. He's been gaining a growing audience over the years, it seems, but he's not exactly what I'd call well

John Darnielle is the man. I went through a long Mountain Goats phase.

OP, beer will be fine.

 

[MountainGoatBrewing]

Ok, I'm sure this issue has been discussed ad nauseum, but I'm curious about racking or not racking now...especially as it applies to this yeast.

I originally planned on racking after 7 days, and dry hopping at that time and leaving it in the secondary for 2 weeks or so. I am now having second thoughts after reading so much about how it's not really necessary and how clarity can actually be better if you just leave it in the primary for 3-4 weeks and then keg or bottle.

I'm real curious if one way or the other is preferable based on the type of yeast used. This isn't a high gravity brew (est. 6.2%), and no fruit or anything besides a hop bag is going in it, but I do know that 1968 is a very high flocculating strain...is that relevant?

Is there a basic rule to follow when using specific yeast strains in regards to time in the fermenter?

 

[GuldTuborg]

but I do know that 1968 is a very high flocculating strain...is that relevant?

Absolutely. You're using the most flocculant strain I know of, and it's almost difficult to get a cloudy beer with this yeast. If I were you, I'd just dry hop it now for a week or so, and then bottle/keg, only because it's the easiest thing to do. Or, I think so, anyway. Do what's easiest for you.

There's no general rule, but some strains definitely seem to finish faster than others. I haven't paid enough attention to this yeast to remember where it stands. I also haven't used it in about 18 months. Most English strains are on the fast side of the spectrum, though. Other factors, like pitch rate, fermentation temps, and OG will alter how long to leave it be. The general answer is "until it's done," but that's not terribly helpful as a predictor. I suppose experience with a recipe is the best predictor.

 

[MountainGoatBrewing]

Thanks, man!

 

[SwampassJ]

I had WLP002 (same strain as 1968) cleared and ready to transfer in under a week, problem was I gave it an extra week at 50 to promote clearing because I wasn't able to get to it. In that week it cleaned up some of the esters I really wanted to keep.

Just keep an eye on the fg, if it seems to be finishing high gently swirl the bucket/carboy without splashing the beer around a few times and then recheck gravity in a day or two to see if it's still falling.

 

[MountainGoatBrewing]

Just keep an eye on the fg, if it seems to be finishing high gently swirl the bucket/carboy without splashing the beer around a few times and then recheck gravity in a day or two to see if it's still falling.

Ok, I may not be able to get to it for 3 days in a row (as suggested) to check to see if the FG stays the same. I was thinking that if if just hit the projected number I'd be good, but the OG didn't measure out as per the beer calculator I used. Basically, according to my ingredients, I was supposed to hit 1.068, but the actual reading was 1.060.

My question is, since the FG is supposed to be 1.021, should I still be looking for that number since my OG was off by -.008? Or should I expect the FG to be 1.021-.008?

 

[GuldTuborg]

My question is, since the FG is supposed to be 1.021, should I still be looking for that number since my OG was off by -.008? Or should I expect the FG to be 1.021-.008?

I forget how you got that FG number. If it was spit out by a software program, it's most likely garbage and I'd ignore it. If you had a recipe that you followed/bought, complete with FG number, and you followed the recipe exactly, it should be reasonably accurate. Just check the gravity again as you are able. If it's more or less the same, and very roughly the same % of the OG as the recipe (after adjusting for your lower OG), you're ready to bottle.

 

[MountainGoatBrewing]

I used an online beer calculator that someone on here suggested. I figure the beer will take 3 weeks total before bottling, but I was under the impression that the fermentation is done anywhere between 4-10 days.

I was wondering about the FG being reached after about week so that I could dry hop and let it sit around for another 2 weeks before bottling. Am I way off on my assumptions?

 

[GuldTuborg]

Am I way off on my assumptions?

Not at all. For the bulk of beers, your thinking is correct. There are always exceptions, but usually there's an explanation for each of them. If you're at or very close to finishing fermentation, dry hop away without worry. Bottle when you're ready. I've dry hopped up to 2 weeks before without any "vegetal flavors" that some people talk of, but that's hardly compelling evidence that you can and should also do it. I'd recommend starting with 1 week, which is pretty average, and go from there.

 

[MountainGoatBrewing]

thank you kindly, sir - all the info is of great help. I'll check again in a couple of days and wait a bit before throwing in the hops...