List of PJ Electrical Diagrams

[P-J]

Thanks, Im in no rush but if its going to take up a lot of your time and Im sure you have better things to do. I appreciate the offer though. As basic as my drawing was did it look like Im on the right track? Everything is gravity fed so no pumps or widgets. Theres a few electrical engineers at my work that have a bunch of free time...lol. I'll have them figure it out. Thanks again... Good work on the diagrams I see posted!

Clankenbrew,

It took me a little time to make the drawing for you but got it done. I also took the liberty of including pump control and outlets in case you change your mind or if someone else wants to use the plan.

As always click on the image to see and save a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" X 17")




I hope this helps you.

P-J

 

[Clankenbrew]

Clankenbrew,

It took me a little time to make the drawing for you but got it done. I also took the liberty of including pump control and outlets in case you change your mind or if someone else wants to use the plan.

As always click on the image to see and save a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" X 17")




I hope this helps you.

P-J

Thanks a bunch.... Your the man!


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[P-J]

Thanks a bunch.... Your the man!

Clankenbrew,

I just caught an error that I made in the drawing. I fixed it now (It was the switch wiring for the PID power). If you saved a copy of the diagram, just refresh it and save it again.

Sorry.

P-J

 

[Clankenbrew]

Got it... Thanks again


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[Spellman]

I'm guessing that latest design is going to be a popular one! I know there are a lot of people who had been discussing using a rheostat for the boil kettle. On another note, looks like Auber has some super affordable din mount circuit breakers they carry now. I know when I built my 50a system I was kind of shocked at the prices I found some of those at. These are drastically cheaper than what I had found at the time!

 

[Frymn1969]

Love this design PJ!!
This is very similar to the High Gravity controller. Would it take much to add 1 PID with mash temp input that controls pump #1 and the recirculation during mash?
PID #1 would control the HLT element based on water temp in the HLT.
PID #2 would control pump #1, recirculating wort only when the mash temp falls out of range

 

[P-J]

Love this design PJ!!
This is very similar to the High Gravity controller. Would it take much to add 1 PID with mash temp input that controls pump #1 and the recirculation during mash?
PID #1 would control the HLT element based on water temp in the HLT.
PID #2 would control pump #1, recirculating wort only when the mash temp falls out of range

I believe the set up will function as you describe without an added PID. The PID shown controls the HLT temperature and maintains it to the set temperature. There is no need to control a pump based on temperature as you would maintain constant circulation during the entire mash process and thus the preset mash temp.

Just saying.

 

[Frymn1969]

PJ I see your point about not needing to control the pump, starting and stopping the circulation of mash. However, having the second PID to monitor the mash temp independent of the HLT would indicate temp variance from HLT as well as a stuck mash if it occurred. Your thoughts


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[P-J]

PJ I see your point about not needing to control the pump, starting and stopping the circulation of mash. However, having the second PID to monitor the mash temp independent of the HLT would indicate temp variance from HLT as well as a stuck mash if it occurred. Your thoughts

I see your desired point - but - you are talking about another 50 to 90 dollars just to keep check on the mash temp. AND with that you would also need to visually monitor your brew situation full time.

Just another thought. If you periodically visually check the flow of fluid in your mash tun you have good knowledge of the process at that point.

I guess you need to visit somone that brews so that you can watch the process first hand.

Just saying. Very sorry. I'm not trying to be critical of you in any way.

Sorry.

P-J

 

[bigirishape]

P-J: I can't even begin to tell you how helpful your diagrams have been in trying to develop my own e-brew plans. I was trying to sketch something out like your diagrams, but it's not going so well. Like many others here, I probably know just enough to get myself in trouble. I was hoping I could tell you what I had in mind, and you might have already sketched out something like this for someone else, and I just overlooked it in the thread....

I've got a HLT and BK to control/heat. My MT is a cooler, so that's going to be non-electric for now.

HLT: 5500w element controlled by PID/probe
BK: 5500w element controlled by rheostat (eventually PID/probe, but $$...)

E-stop kill switch, 3 position selector for elements (HLT/None/BK) and then an On-Off for each element.

Plug and on-off for a single pump. Planning to buy a 2nd pump in future, but just one for now.

LEDs for the 3 position selector for the elements, and the on-off for the elements and pump.

I have a friend who gave me a Leviton 6895 GFCI (http://communities.leviton.com/servlet/JiveServlet/previewBody/2046-102-1-3097/Spec 6895.pdf) and a recommendation to start off with a 50A breaker in my house panel and this GFCI in my control panel, and eventually upgrading to a 50A GFCI in my house panel for double security. Do you have any thoughts on that?

Thanks man, I know your diagrams have helped a TON of people already, hoping to add my name to that list

 

[P-J]

P-J: I can't even begin to tell you how helpful your diagrams have been in trying to develop my own e-brew plans. I was trying to sketch something out like your diagrams, but it's not going so well. Like many others here, I probably know just enough to get myself in trouble. I was hoping I could tell you what I had in mind, and you might have already sketched out something like this for someone else, and I just overlooked it in the thread....

I've got a HLT and BK to control/heat. My MT is a cooler, so that's going to be non-electric for now.

HLT: 5500w element controlled by PID/probe
BK: 5500w element controlled by rheostat (eventually PID/probe, but $$...)

E-stop kill switch, 3 position selector for elements (HLT/None/BK) and then an On-Off for each element.

Plug and on-off for a single pump. Planning to buy a 2nd pump in future, but just one for now.

LEDs for the 3 position selector for the elements, and the on-off for the elements and pump.

I have a friend who gave me a Leviton 6895 GFCI (http://communities.leviton.com/servlet/JiveServlet/previewBody/2046-102-1-3097/Spec 6895.pdf) and a recommendation to start off with a 50A breaker in my house panel and this GFCI in my control panel, and eventually upgrading to a 50A GFCI in my house panel for double security. Do you have any thoughts on that?

Thanks man, I know your diagrams have helped a TON of people already, hoping to add my name to that list

You can start with the diagram posted in #391 of this thread. You just need to change the elements to 5500W units and then add the E-Stop circuit from any of my other diagrams. For illuminated switches you would need to change out the ones I've illustrate to the ones you want to use.

I've run into a serious problem with my computer system since Microsoft removed their support for Windows XP. I'm currently trying to update my system to Windows 8.1 which is an extremly difficult mission at this point.

Sorry..

 

[bigirishape]

Thanks P-J, that's exactly what I was hoping for, will check out post 391. What are you using to make the diagrams btw?

Best of luck with the OS update!

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[P-J]

Thanks P-J, that's exactly what I was hoping for, will check out post 391. What are you using to make the diagrams btw?

Best of luck with the OS update!

Thanks.

I use Microsoft Image Composer to make all of the drawings.

P-J

 

[BigFloppy]

I've run into a serious problem with my computer system since Microsoft removed their support for Windows XP. I'm currently trying to update my system to Windows 8.1 which is an extremly difficult mission at this point.

Sorry..

PJ - Just go thru every update for windows 8.0 and 8.1 will magically appear for free in the Microsoft store

 

[bigirishape]

P-J

P-J:

I'm just going to use the 2 PIDs I think, with one in Manual Mode. The SSVRs I saw are almost prohibitively expensive. If I'm using the 5500w elements and 40a SSRs, should I use the 30A DPDT relays, or should I go for the 40A DPDT relays?

 

[Mojzis]

P-J:



I'm just going to use the 2 PIDs I think, with one in Manual Mode. The SSVRs I saw are almost prohibitively expensive. If I'm using the 5500w elements and 40a SSRs, should I use the 30A DPDT relays, or should I go for the 40A DPDT relays?

There are some on eBay with the pot for 17$. Or consider still dragons kit. I've had that one for a year now.

 

[P-J]

P-J:

I'm just going to use the 2 PIDs I think, with one in Manual Mode. The SSVRs I saw are almost prohibitively expensive. If I'm using the 5500w elements and 40a SSRs, should I use the 30A DPDT relays, or should I go for the 40A DPDT relays?

The relay can be the 30A unit. No problem.

The SSVR and rheostat costs $34 at Auber Instruments. Their PID SYL-2352 costs $47. Your choice.

P-J

 

[Clankenbrew]

I bought the 40a/220v 60 Htz from auber to set up the diagram. If your in no rush China has some cheap versions on ebay but it takes 2 weeks or more for delivery. Dont forget heat sinks.


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[bigirishape]

Would you stick with the 30a circuit breaker in the wall panel with the 5500w elements, or should I look at a 40a breaker?

 

[Clankenbrew]

Watts divided by volts give you amps.... 5500/220= 25 amps. 30a is fine for 1 element... Which is why the center switch in the diagram is a selector switch. It only allows one element to run at a time.


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[bigirishape]

I accidentally bought the 240v coil DPDT relays... I'm going to have to return them and get the 120v coil DPDT relays, aren't I...?

 

[Clankenbrew]

this is what you need.


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[P-J]

You have 240V available going to your panel. You could just wire the contactor using 240V instead of 120V to the pick circuit.

 

[bigirishape]

PJ's diagram says "240v-30A / 120v coil", so does TheElectricBrewery.com instructions.

I bought 2 of these, and need a 3rd: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=403

Wondering if I'd be better off buying the 3rd, or if I'd be better off returning those 2 240v coil relays, and buying 3 of these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KGSJ74/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[jeffmeh]

If you have the 240v coil contactors and a 240v feed I would just use them.

 

[bigirishape]

Or I could keep the 240v and use it as the incoming power to the keyed on/off panel switch, and buy 2 of the 120v coils from Amazon and use those to control my elements?

 

[fc36]

Subbed, for e-BIAB. I'm currently wiring up my control panel and P-J's first drawing has given me some ideas.

 

[accusedslacker]

Hi PJ, I'm a complete electrical novice. I read all 42 pages but didn't see my set up so I thought I'd run it by you. I have a 1500W 120V ULWD element in the RIMS tube, RTD probes to the RIMS tube and HLT, a gas solenoid for the HLT and 2 pumps. The BK is all manual. I'm trying to set up a panel for that incorporating those elements with power on/off, e-stop, 2 PID's, 1 switch and light for both pumps. I'll be running this on a 20A 120V garage circuit. I'm sure I'm missing something but thanks in advance for any guidance you can provide.

 

[Clankenbrew]

Gettin'r done just got the wiring. Thanks a bunch PJ, your diagram was a huge help. You Rock!


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[gueykewl]

Hi PJ, I'm a complete electrical novice. I read all 42 pages but didn't see my set up so I thought I'd run it by you. I have a 1500W 120V ULWD element in the RIMS tube, RTD probes to the RIMS tube and HLT, a gas solenoid for the HLT and 2 pumps. The BK is all manual. I'm trying to set up a panel for that incorporating those elements with power on/off, e-stop, 2 PID's, 1 switch and light for both pumps. I'll be running this on a 20A 120V garage circuit. I'm sure I'm missing something but thanks in advance for any guidance you can provide.

I, too, am in the planning stages of building the same exact system. I keep researching and referencing all of PJ designs which have proved invaluable, but, I am no electrician so it has taken me much longer to finalize my plans for my control panel.

I have come to the conclusion that what we are both trying to do with our planned setup will be too much for a 120V/20A system. For sure we will not be able to run the RIMS tube, both PIDS and both pumps at the same time, which would be optimum. Alternatively, I can heat sparge water in the BK manually to terminal temp as the mash is finishing, turn off the RIMS element and then use BK pump to move sparge water to the HLT to use the PID to maintain sparge temp throughout the sparge process. Possible but not optimal.

It's either that or eliminate the RIMS tube altogether and convert the HLT to a HERMS system using a stainless steel coil. Doing this I should be able to run both PIDS and pumps at the same time. It has taken me longer than I heads planned for this build but I am really enjoying learning and understanding this stage of overall brewing process and really appreciate all the the information on the forum.

Feel free to critique my understanding. I have a thick skin and appreciate the constructive criticism.


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