Kettle Hop Spider / Carboy Dry Hopper

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mwebster22

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Trying to up my game by using hop screens to keep hop residue out of my fermentor and secondary to allow less wasted beer during racking. I fly sparge for 5 gallon batches, and typically brew IPAs, ambers and milk stouts, use pellet hops, using an 8 gallon kettle, and keg, for what it's worth. Looking for some advice!

Looking at filters/screens here: https://utahbiodieselsupply.com/brewingfilters.php

1) I assume hop extraction when screening works fine for bittering and flavoring additions, but for aroma (flame out) addition, should the screen be used? Is the aroma extraction good enough in the screen during wort cooling or is there a worthwhile benefit in leaving the aroma hops in the wort during fermentation? If I leave those in I would still have the separation issue during racking to the secondary but it would be less to separate from.

2) Does a carboy dry hop screen allow enough extraction as there isn't any agitation in secondary?
 
I just got my utah biodeisel hop spider in the mail Saturday. I haven't used it yet but it looks great and plenty sturdy. I bought a 10 1/2 x14 inch model. I don't forsee any issues with getting >90% of my hop utilization from my boil. For the dry hop, I'll stick with the hop bag/marble method because you want those hop oils coming up from the bottom.
 
I built my own hop spider. Got tired of clogging and whatever else. I make a lot of IPAs and have noticed no difference in aroma and ect. I put everything in the spider including flameout additions. I think you will be happy with one.
 
I got a mangrove jack hopspider off ritebrew for like 35 shipped. Havnt had a chance to brew yet though.
 
I built my own hop spider. Got tired of clogging and whatever else. I make a lot of IPAs and have noticed no difference in aroma and ect. I put everything in the spider including flameout additions. I think you will be happy with one.

With a little tig welding and some stainless supplies, you could make your own for a considerable savings
 
With a little tig welding and some stainless supplies, you could make your own for a considerable savings

You don't even need to weld.

I made mine using 3 long bolts wit nuts. Drilled 3 holes in a wide pipe for the bolts. Then I just put the paint strainer on it. All set for $10.
 
With a little tig welding and some stainless supplies, you could make your own for a considerable savings

Well, sure.

But, surprisingly enough, most "Intro To Home Brewing" guides actually don't list "TIG Welding Rig" near the top of their lists of "things one needs to brew beer"...

Cheers! ;)
 
I just got my utah biodeisel hop spider in the mail Saturday. I haven't used it yet but it looks great and plenty sturdy. I bought a 10 1/2 x14 inch model. I don't forsee any issues with getting >90% of my hop utilization from my boil. For the dry hop, I'll stick with the hop bag/marble method because you want those hop oils coming up from the bottom.

Which micron/size you go with. Been debating on getting a new 10.25 from biodiesel. I have a homemade 8" diameter that works, but want to go larger for better flow. Using that and my hop taco, I get no debris in my fermentor.
 
Not sure if this will work for yoy. But I use a pin lock keg, Utah biodeisel screen, drilled stopper, straight diptube combo to dry hop in secondary. But I use the hops outside so they are free floating, then transfer to serving keg, leaving hops behind.

View attachment 1485263664339.jpg
 
You don't even need to weld.

I made mine using 3 long bolts wit nuts. Drilled 3 holes in a wide pipe for the bolts. Then I just put the paint strainer on it. All set for $10.

This is what I did too, only I used a sink strainer for mine. Works great.
 
Which micron/size you go with. Been debating on getting a new 10.25 from biodiesel. I have a homemade 8" diameter that works, but want to go larger for better flow. Using that and my hop taco, I get no debris in my fermentor.


300 micron. I thought the 400 would be better for mashing and would let hop pellet residue through.
 
Thanks everybody. Ordered a 6x11 300 micron screen today from utahbiodiesel. I have a 13x13" kettle. Pricey, but I'm tired of the hop trub in my fermentor...
 
Thanks everybody. Ordered a 6x11 300 micron screen today from utahbiodiesel. I have a 13x13" kettle. Pricey, but I'm tired of the hop trub in my fermentor...

Same here man. Cost more than my brew kettle but tired of the po-dunk process to transfer my boil. I'll list that sucker on my insurance.
 
I wonder if it would be possible, after using the screen in the kettle to contain the hops and cooling, to dump the screen, hang it in my ferment bucket, then poor the kettle wort through it to strain some cold break. Would need to stay sanitary, and the hops might not dump out thoroughly but maybe a possibility. I don't have much luck with whirlpooling and autosiphoning...
 
I wonder if it would be possible, after using the screen in the kettle to contain the hops and cooling, to dump the screen, hang it in my ferment bucket, then poor the kettle wort through it to strain some cold break. Would need to stay sanitary, and the hops might not dump out thoroughly but maybe a possibility. I don't have much luck with whirlpooling and autosiphoning...

could be a good way to aerate too. ill give it a try my next batch I do.
 
I wonder if it would be possible, after using the screen in the kettle to contain the hops and cooling, to dump the screen, hang it in my ferment bucket, then poor the kettle wort through it to strain some cold break. Would need to stay sanitary, and the hops might not dump out thoroughly but maybe a possibility. I don't have much luck with whirlpooling and autosiphoning...

based on my experiments with running my cooled wort through a strainer, i suspect this would just result in clogged mess. Take a look at: http://brulosophy.com/2015/03/22/the-impact-of-kettle-trub-part-2-exbeeriment-results/
 
Aerate yes, but I think 300 micron is too big to cach the protiens in cold break.
 
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