Kettle conversion to electric

[Jtvann]

I've got a 10g ssbrewtech BME kettle, the one with the domed bottom. It already has multiple 1.5 TC ports on it. The thermometer port is roughly at the 4 gallon mark.

Is there any reason that I can't stick a straight heating element, similar to one used in a rims tube in the port. I know it will be much higher than I typically see the heating element, but my smallest batch still has 6.5g post boil. I could easily install a thermowell somewhere convenient.

Any advise before I go drilling?

 

[CodeSection]

Do you throw your hops in or use a hop bag? If using a hop bag even with weighted marbles in it, at that height do you think the bag would hit or rest on the heating element with a vigorous boil?

 

[Jtvann]

My intent would be to throw them in loose

 

[CodeSection]

It sounds like the heating element will in the middle or slightly above the middle of the volume of wort. If that is the case, I wonder what the efficiency and time it will take to boil since the heating element is so high. People use a heat stick all the time, so maybe it is not an issue.

Hopefully, someone who has a similar BK setup will post.

 

[odie]

Since the port is already there...try it out...if it doesn’t work out well, THEN drill a new port... u can’t undrill

 

[ProblemChild]

I would be curious about the dead space at the bottom. That from from the bottom may leave a layer of cooler wort. Then again, if the convection from the boil is strong, it may stir that up. No idea.

 

[mcl]

It will work fine. I use keggles and am at about the 3 Gallon mark for complete submersion.

 

[bigdawg86]

I have the same kettle and was thinking the same thing, but to use it as a HLT. I would put the element in the thermometer port, and still would be able to recirculate with a pump, so the element being higher wouldn't be an issue.

 

[Jtvann]

Everything fits. I need to drill a small hole for the thermometer probe. I'll probably do a wet run or two this weekend. I'll report back with results.

 

[Jtvann]

I'm considering drilling in between the two TC ports, putting the thermometer probe below the heating element. Not sure it would matter much since it's the boil kettle.

 

[Jtvann]

Holy stratification batman....

It ultimately doesnt matter (I dont think) since this is solely a boil kettle. I turned her on 100% power and started heating my 49 degree geou d water. 5 minutes later is had only rose about 3 degrees.

Out of curiosity I put my hand in, and the top half was warm/hot and the bottom half cold. Turned on my whirlpool pump and the temp instantly shot up 40 degrees.

I've turned the pump off now just to make sure the upper half won't boil with a cold lower half (obviously it wont), but I was very surprised at the stratification layer.

 

[CodeSection]

I'm not surprised about the stratification. As you noted, with the whirlpool pump on, that is rectifies that issue and now the BK should be just as efficient as if the heating element was lower.

Glad it's working for you!

 

[Jtvann]

Eh, I'm not going to call it a success yet. The bottom half is literally only rising when the whirlpool is on. Theres a 70 degree temperature differential as of right now. I'd hoped to not have to run my pump for the entire boil session.

 

[Jtvann]

Well that was just cool. I was typing a message to say that I though it was a fail. The upper portion stopped at 190 degrees and the bottom half was stalled at 120.

Suddenly the bottom temp started to shoot up at a rate of a degree per second. Now the whole deal has settled in at 188 degrees.

It's looking like I'll need to use the whirlpool the whole time. That could be problematic as with boiling creating bubbles it can cause cavitation.

 

[CodeSection]

I'm nterested to see what happens when you reaching the boiling point. I'm guessing that once you reach your boiling point, you could eventually turn off your pump.

 

[Jtvann]

Yup, needed to cap it and run pump till I got a solid boil. The pump did start cavitating almost immediately. I turned it off, but the boil kept going without dropping for 10 mins until I turned it off to test chilling.

I call it a success, though a little different than I thought

 

[CodeSection]

Very nice! Good job!

 

[carrsgarage]

You could always use a Hot Rod from Brew Hardware.


No new holes....

 

[Jtvann]

I used quite a bit of brew hardware gear in my setup. The hot rod comes in way under powered for what I'm looking to do. Only one small hole needed anyway for my setup for the thermometer probe.

Alls well

 

[bigdawg86]

I was thinking why not put the element in the bottom port, but then run the dip tub from the thermometer port and use a silicone hose to extend the pickup to the bottom of the kettle?

 

[Jtvann]

I guess that's an option as well. I hadn't thought of doing that. Might give it a try and see how it works.

 

[Jtvann]

I was thinking why not put the element in the bottom port, but then run the dip tub from the thermometer port and use a silicone hose to extend the pickup to the bottom of the kettle?

So that does work as well, but one problem is the silicone tube sticking against the kettle wall and killing in flow to the pump. Once I adjusted that, the tube is just long enough to where if it moves at all, kettle losses will be inconsistent, possibly leaving various volumes behind.

That just with 5 minutes worth of play though, and given more time, I might could iron out results better. Overall, it does work.

 

[Jtvann]

Figured I'd follow up one last time on this thread. I should have tried this originally, but even my 5500w ripple element will go through the TC port.

The BME kettle is purposely designed to recirculate or whirlpool. If you're using that feature, this kettle works perfectly ad an electric kettle with the element plugged into the thermometer TC port.

Only one thing I wish I'd done different...I wish I'd put the thermometer probe higher up. Do not go through the heat skirt on the kettle with the hole. The heat skirt and kettle body are two different layers of metal. Water will leak between the layers if you try to seal the weldless attachment from the exterior of the kettle. If you go through both layers, you have to seal from the inside. Not a huge deal, but I wish I'd thought of that before drilling.