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Keg or bottle prime

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Jag75

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I'm making an IPA for someone and I really dont want to prime in the bottles because of oxidation issues. My process was going to keg it , carbonate it and then bottle em in bombers. I dont think he has a way to keep them all cold. I've looked but haven't found anything on beer going from 38 to room temp then back to fridge temps . Would this have a negative effect?
 
It shouldn't be too bad--though you'd want to store non-refrigerated bottles in a cool dark place if possible.

A repeated warming/cooling cycle isn't going to be good for the beer but once or twice isn't going to hurt much.

And, as always, IPAs should be consumed fresh to retain as much hop character as possible....
 
I don't know why it would be any different than commercial beer that likely almost all goes through several such temp cycles before you buy it?

Just a point of observation.... if you have a beer gun that will purge the bottles before filling from the keg, you could just do your normal low oxygen transfer to keg, then immediately prime the bottles and use the beer gun to fill them with very low oxygen exposure just as you would filling bottles with carbed beer from the keg, and allow them to bottle condition. Personally I wouldn't do that with an IPA, I'd carb in the keg and then fill the bottles to avoid the trub and special crashing and pouring that you have to do to get clean beer with a bottle conditioned IPA. But with a wit or something that benefits from the extra yeast... maybe something to think about? (I just now thought of it)
 
May be overkill, but one of these 500ml bad boys provides a bit of flexibility when dealing with purged kegs.

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That holds over two cups (there are, of course, smaller models). Filled with bottle primer (for 5 gallons to ~2.4 volumes, roughly a cup of CS dissolved in a cup or so of water) one could fully purge the keg, then snap on a bare gas QD, stick the business end of the syringe in the tubing port, shoot the primer in, then do a closed transfer to the keg which should mix the primer pretty well (invert the filled keg a few times if in doubt).

Then you can fill and cap-on-foam and let "someone" nanny the conditioning :)
Should be minimal O2 exposure end to end so as not to totally rely on the "bottling yeast eat bottle O2" theory...

Cheers!
 
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