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Mojzis

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I'm new to kegging and have two questions about crappy kegs I was sold.

A while ago I bought 3 ball locks on CL for a good price. I filled and carbed up two without issues. The third I think may be trash. After removing the liquid post to sanitize I realized I can't get it back on. It seems that the threads are misshapen probably from the previous owner. Funny thing is that the keg was pressurized when I got it, but I had a hell of a time getting the posts off. So since the threads are toast I assume I should just throw it out?

After realizing this keg was no good I needed another so I stopped by the homebrew store and paid top dollar for a used keg in desperation. Keg was pressurized so I figured all good. I released pressure, sanitized, and filled. It wouldn't seal. The lid isn't a perfect fit. After messing with it for a long time I realized that if I cranked the pressure way up it would seal. But as the beer absorbed the co2 it would lose its seal again. So now I may have an oxidized beer and another over priced piece of scrap. Now that the keg is full of beer and the receipt long gone, i'm not sure if I can even get a replacement.

Any advice here? I changed all of the gaskets, used keg lube, etc.
 
try bending the keg legs a bit, or placing a penny under the leg, it will give a bit more pressure on the gasket, also, when you do get it to seal, mark the direction of the lid and always use it in that direction, might want to try flipping it around.

kegging can be frustrating,
 
I tried bending the legs. I'll give the pennies a shot and mark the lid.

No kidding...
 
Just a question, have you replaced the lid gasket? On the keg that you said the post was stripped on - have you tried screwing on the post minus the internal popit? Some times the spring and popit get out of line. Hard to really damage the threads without a lot of effort. Sometimes with soda kegs it does take some pressure to seal them. If the keg leaks, it won't oxidize the contents as the oxygen will have been replaced with CO2 and outside air won't migrate.
 
Just a question, have you replaced the lid gasket? On the keg that you said the post was stripped on - have you tried screwing on the post minus the internal popit? Some times the spring and popit get out of line. Hard to really damage the threads without a lot of effort. Sometimes with soda kegs it does take some pressure to seal them. If the keg leaks, it won't oxidize the contents as the oxygen will have been replaced with CO2 and outside air won't migrate.

Also sometimes the kegs won't seal dry. Get some food grade lubricant and lube the O-rings. You may want to replace the o-rings as well.

http://www.wikihow.com/Assemble-a-Cornelius-Keg

All O-rings were replaced and lubricated with keg lube.

I did try without the poppit, same result.

And thanks wilser :D
 
Well you may be able to simply replace the post. I have found that the female threads damage more easily than the threads on the keg. If it's totally screwed up I would be interested in buying it. I need the opening and top for an aging cask I am welding up. Hate to cut up a perfectly good. LMK
 
I have dealt with hundreds of kegs. Some appear to be in total crap/scrap condition. I have yet *knock on wood* to run across one that I couldn't fix--even ones that had dents on the lid and wouldn't seal.

It's hard to know with out seeing it, but when I have issues with threads it's one of a couple things:

The thread doesn't match the post (Firestone liquid post) but this is not your case

The tube (gas or dip) oring keeps the post from making contact with the tread, so it seems like it doesn't fit. I simply finess it or I shove the tube into the post then try to install.

Something, normally bits of old oring, gets jammed up in the post and threads. I simply clean it out with a thin metal pick or soak it in pbw.

If you don't see physical damage on the thread, it's good. I've even had some that looked damaged work fine.

Corny kegs are simple. Not much can go wrong with them other than seals (orings, poppets), dents, or holes or not tightening things.

Btw, I've had some damn near impossible to get off posts before. Old soda kegs are the worst when the syrup dries and glues them on. Those tend to be the ones that get the stuck in orings on the treads too.
 
On the keg that you said the post was stripped on - have you tried screwing on the post minus the internal popit? Some times the spring and popit get out of line. Hard to really damage the threads without a lot of effort.

This. I was sent the wrong poppets once and the post wouldn't screw on most of the time. Occasionally it would work but not often. You need to make sure the poppet legs aren't interfering with the threads.
 
I had a keg that wasn't sealing at the lid. upon closer inspection I realised that it was out of shape. making the o ring not press evenly on the entire surface. I took a block of wood and hammer and gently tapped the areas that were leaking. It now holds pressure.
 
I had a keg that had screwed up threads. Came from the factory like that, supplier righted the wrong and shipped me a new one. The old one is a great 5 gal stainless fermenter. I've used it more than once now, usually in the keezer with a lager in there. It just fits so nicely into the keezer, in a slot that would usually be reserved for a serving keg. When I get a proper fermentation chamber it'll likely be the difference between fitting 1 or 2 batches in at once.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I have checked (and removed) the poppet, that's not the issue. I'm 99% sure it's a threading issue. I'll hang onto it for the time being and try a few more things when I go to keg again in a few weeks. One thing to note is that the posts on this keg are larger than the others I have. I can't remember exact size of the top of my head.

Also I'll give the wood and hammer a shot when I empty the other.
 
.....The old one is a great 5 gal stainless fermenter. I've used it more than once now, usually in the keezer with a lager in there. It just fits so nicely into the keezer, in a slot that would usually be reserved for a serving keg. When I get a proper fermentation chamber it'll likely be the difference between fitting 1 or 2 batches in at once.

Thats what I would recommend, If worse comes to worse you can always use it as a fermentation vessel. On "adventures in homebrewing"AIH(homebrewing.org)they sell the lids with a hole for a bung and bubbler. Or you just cut a hole in the lid you have now. We have one out of our bunch that won't hold pressure, it's now a designated fermenter now and it works great for it.
 
Thats what I would recommend, If worse comes to worse you can always use it as a fermentation vessel. On "adventures in homebrewing"(aih.org)they sell the lids with a hole for a bung and bubbler. Or you just cut a hole in the lid you have now. We have one out of our bunch that won't hold pressure, it's now a designated fermenter now and it works great for it.

Not even required. I got one of the big rubber bungs that go in a carboy neck, got a sharp knife and carved out the airlock hole so it was bigger on one side, but still fit the airlock assembly snug on the other. Then jammed that right overtop the post with screwed up threads. Remove the dip tubes and replace the working post to plug the hole and presto! $0.99 fix.
 
Finally got to kegging today. I played with the keg with the fittings I couldn't get on. I ended up switching them with another keg and viola it worked. Threads were the same size too. I looked at the brands and one is in fact a firestone. I don't know if that has anything to do with it.

Anyway, glad to have another working keg.
 

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