Keg conditioning

[E_Rock]

I've been kegging my homebrew for 3-4 months now. I built a keezer that can hold 4 kegs. I've been having trouble keeping the pipeline going mostly due to finding the time to brew. I am going to start brewing 10gallon batches with the hope of having a few kegs in reserve so when something kicks, I can replace it with something that will be ready in a relatively short period of time.

So let's say I brew 10g, split it into 2 kegs. One I will force carb and put in the keezer immediately, the second I was thinking I would add some priming sugar and let it do it's thing in the basement for a few weeks. When the first keg kicks, I'm hoping the keg coniditioned one would be mostly carbed and ready after a few days of cooling and adjusting to serving pressure. Is it really that simple?

I was having a conversation with a friend and he was concerned that the keg lid might not quite be tight enough. When it's connected to gas, it's always under pressure keeping the lid nice and snug. If it were to slowly condition, the pressure might drop, loosening the seal. I can see the point he's trying to make. Even if I hit it with gas after initialling filling it, would the gas in the headspace disolve into the beer before the yeast could produce enough CO2 to create pressure. Part of me feels I am way overthinking this.

Anyone else do something similar?

 

[porterpounder]

Yes, it is that simple. Definitely pressure the keg to seat the lid. At carb-conditioning temps, a couple psi is not going to dissolve enough extra CO2 into the wort to curb the yeast activity.

 

[E_Rock]

Yes, it is that simple. Definitely pressure the keg to seat the lid. At carb-conditioning temps, a couple psi is not going to dissolve enough extra CO2 into the wort to curb the yeast activity.

Thanks, man! There are moments where I just feel myself overcomplicating it and this certainly seemed like it was coming one of them.

 

[dsniegocki]

Strongly recommend keg lube if don't already use it to help with a good seal.

One thing comes to mind to consider if you are naturally keg-carbing is a spunding valve; some good threads in here about making and using them for just this purpose.

 

[MrFancyPlants]

Also, after naturally carbing a keg, there will be increased sediment due to the yeast flocking out after carbing. Put it near where you will tap it so you don't have to slosh it up or down stairs once it is done carbing.

 

[Dire_Wolf]

Good article here
http://brulosophy.com/2016/09/12/ca...ation-vs-keg-conditioning-exbeeriment-results

 

[E_Rock]

Strongly recommend keg lube if don't already use it to help with a good seal.

One thing comes to mind to consider if you are naturally keg-carbing is a spunding valve; some good threads in here about making and using them for just this purpose.

I do use keg lube. My LHBS recommended it and I've always used it.

I like the idea of the the spunding valve. Seems like a very simple way to accomplish what I'm trying to do.

 

[E_Rock]

Also, after naturally carbing a keg, there will be increased sediment due to the yeast flocking out after carbing. Put it near where you will tap it so you don't have to slosh it up or down stairs once it is done carbing.

Unfortunately, I am going to have to slosh it up the stairs. When I built my keezer, my wife said, "if you make it look nice, why don't we put it in the dining room."

But I think I might be pushing my luck by asking to store additional kegs in the living room. ;-) Maybe if I put it in the corner under a tablecloth with a nice lamp on top.....

 

[E_Rock]

Good article here
http://brulosophy.com/2016/09/12/ca...ation-vs-keg-conditioning-exbeeriment-results

Thank for that article! Those brulosophy guys are great.

 

[55x11]

I've been kegging my homebrew for 3-4 months now. I built a keezer that can hold 4 kegs. I've been having trouble keeping the pipeline going mostly due to finding the time to brew. I am going to start brewing 10gallon batches with the hope of having a few kegs in reserve so when something kicks, I can replace it with something that will be ready in a relatively short period of time.

So let's say I brew 10g, split it into 2 kegs. One I will force carb and put in the keezer immediately, the second I was thinking I would add some priming sugar and let it do it's thing in the basement for a few weeks. When the first keg kicks, I'm hoping the keg coniditioned one would be mostly carbed and ready after a few days of cooling and adjusting to serving pressure. Is it really that simple?

I was having a conversation with a friend and he was concerned that the keg lid might not quite be tight enough. When it's connected to gas, it's always under pressure keeping the lid nice and snug. If it were to slowly condition, the pressure might drop, loosening the seal. I can see the point he's trying to make. Even if I hit it with gas after initialling filling it, would the gas in the headspace disolve into the beer before the yeast could produce enough CO2 to create pressure. Part of me feels I am way overthinking this.

Anyone else do something similar?

Depends how much headspace you have. And keep in mind that finished beer has already a great deal of CO2 dissolved in it. If you transfer to keg at the same temperature as it finished fermenting, you are probably already at CO2 saturation level for that temperature.
It's true that you will lose some/majority of headspace CO2 to the beer, if headspace is small you may lose most of it - this will take a few days to a week (similarly to force carbonation). I usually don't have problems with conditioning kegs un-pressurizing and lids becoming loose, but you may want to re-apply CO2 pressure after say 3-5 days if you are worried.

 

[E_Rock]

I was thinking about this thread today. As I walks through the garage after work today, I believe I came up with the simplest solution. Seems so obvious now. I bought a second CO2 tank to keep in reserve. In lieu of a spunding valve, I could just buy another regulator. Store the reserve kegs in the basement attached at ~25-30psi for a week or two and then disconnect. When eventually put in the keezer, they should reach serving pressure in a relatively short period of time.

 

[govner1]

Use about 25% less priming sugar/malt than you would for bottling, seal keg w/ CO2, let it sit at room temp for 10-14 days.
Cold crash 24-48 hrs before serving.

I'd also recommend shortening your dip tube by 1/2"-3/4" and adding a SS trap to the end.
I've been doing this for 5-6 years w/ good results.

 

[ericbw]

I think you're on the right track with the extra CO2 tank. But remember that you got it as a spare, so if you're using both, it will be empty when your keezer tank runs out (Murphy's Stout Law), and you'll have no way to drink your beer!

Look at a carbonation chart like this one: http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php

If the keg is at 65 degrees, you can pressurize it to 30psi, and it is only going to get 2.5 volumes, which is about right for most beers. Once it is carbed at that level, it is carbed at that level. If you cool it down, it will still have 2.5 vols. Once it is cold, you put it on the gas at serving pressure, and it will old the carb at that level.

So if you carb it warm at 65 degrees and 30 psi, then remove the gas, it can sit off the gas until it's ready. Then chill it at 40 degrees off the gas. Put the gas on at 13psi and drink.

 

[atoughram]

For conditioning I boil two cups of water with two ounces of table sugar and add it to the bottom of the clean and sanitized cornie keg. I then siphon the keg full of beer and seal it up, using keg lube if needed. I then pressurize the leg to 30psi and spray Starsan on the fittings and lid to check for leaks. I leave it in my ferm chamber for a few weeks at 72f.

 

[KeyWestBrewing]

Use about 25% less priming sugar/malt than you would for bottling, seal keg w/ CO2, let it sit at room temp for 10-14 days.
Cold crash 24-48 hrs before serving.

I'd also recommend shortening your dip tube by 1/2"-3/4" and adding a SS trap to the end.
I've been doing this for 5-6 years w/ good results.

+1 though Beersmith has recommended nearly 50% less on some of my beers. I don't mind coming in a little low though to make sure I'm not overcarbing the keg. Can always hook the gas line up and bring it up the rest of the way.
One of the benefits of priming your keg is it should bring down TPO levels making your beer have a better shelf life.

 

[E_Rock]

So I ended up trying to carb the keg with some add'l sugar. I'm not sure if I was successful. After sitting around for ~5 weeks, I hooked up the keg a few days ago. While it was carbonated, it was a little flatter than I had expected. Not really a big deal, as I was really just hoping for a headstart if you will. Carbonation levels were fine a few days later after being stored on serving pressure. However, the beer is sweeter than I'd like. Now, this was part of dual yeast experiment. The first keg was fermented with 34/70 and I loved it! The keg in question, used S-23. It's fine, nothing wrong with it, but it seems a little more "boring" or "plain" if that makes any sense. The 34/70 had an awesome funk*, a european lager character (not the same as a skunked green bottle), that I really enjoyed. What really is bugging me is that it seems a little sweet. I'm wondering if the add'l sugar didn't ferment out all the way. I added about 70% of what everything I read online suggested, so I am sure I didn't add too much. It was stored around 65F for 5 weeks. I'm wondering if perhaps that was simply not warm enough for a small amount of sugar?

What do y'all think? Characteristic of the yeast? Or it didn't ferment out all the way?


*I lack a better word to describe it