Keezer Painting Question

[feistygoat]

I've been reading a lot of DYI websites regarding chest freezer conversion and most of them recommend sanding your freezer prior to painting. My freezer already has a light texture to it as opposed to a smooth finish. Do I need to sand the freezer prior to painting or can I get away with cleaning/ priming and painting? My only fear with sanding is removing the nice texture that is already present.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Face Eater]

You can get away with not sanding but the paint will adhere better to a lightly sanded surface. If you don't want to sand I would recommend cleaning with alcohol or paint thinner (something to remove all grease or oil). Then prime a few coats and then paint a few coats. Should turn out fine.

 

[cobolstinks]

try painting over it as is in a small area,
if (you like how it looks)
{
//paint the rest of the keezer
}
else
{
//sand than paint
}

or (same thing more concise)
paint a small portion than

bool toSand=false

toSand=(if you like the area)? (paint the rest of it as is) : (sand than paint it)

 

[shutupjojo]

I suggest sanding with maybe 220 grit or close to it to remove some of the glossy finish.
Get it smooth and dull , vacuum it , wipe it down with a damp rag. Paint thinner for oil base paint and water for water base paint.

 

[Dan]

^^^ Yep. Not much effort. Good results. I didn't prime, used less than a qt of Rustoleum, hand rolled and brushed it. Worked great! I did put around 2 or 3 coats on, mainly just because I had plenty of paint out of that quart can so just kept applying until it was gone. Of course let it dry first be before reapplying.

 

[RSNovi]

Just take a scotch pad to it.

 

[feistygoat]

Awesome. Thanks for the speedy replies. Can't wait to have a beer dispensing chest freezer.

 

[Fid]

I'll throw in a product recommendation. I used Aerosol Hammerrite on my Keezer and it turned out fantastic. Brushing and rolling always runs the risk of leaving behind some stipple texture and, as far as I'm concerned, is just more work in general. Hammerite is strong enough to use as a coating for wheel barrows so its definitively strong enough to hold up to the average beating a keezer will take. As an added bonus it will coat over rust, no problem thanks to some crazy thing they call Glassguard.

From their site "As the coating dries, microscopic heat-hardened glass flakes interlock with special resins forming a super-tough barrier that seals out moisture to prevent rusting." Because of the Glassguard technology you have to recoat it in 1 hour, otherwise wait 10 days before you can apply a second coat.
http://kilz.com/masterchem/v/index.jsp?vgnextoid=0c3354d4e3431210VgnVCM1000008a05d103RCRD

If you go with Hammerite, two things to keep in mind.
1.) I learned the hard way that the stuff hangs in the air like a fog while you're spraying it. At the very least you're gonna want to wear a dust mask and put a drop cloth on anything in the immediate area.
2.) DAMN spray paint hurts your index finger after a while! Pick up a trigger adapter!

.

I've been in the coatings industry for 5+ years and ALWAYS tell EVERYONE to sand and prime. The success of your coating is all contingent on proper prep work.

Now, that being said, I did not sand or prime my keezer... Go figure... and it has held up well even after a near death experience (for both my wife and my keezer) that involved a flight of concrete stairs and a U-Haul.

Hopefully my rambling was helpful.... Kinda feel like I'm at work right now...

Here's the link to my build: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/thanksgiving-keezer-build-208323/

 

[Dan]

Thanks for the info Fid. Might try that produt on my new kegerator. The pistol grip trigger adapters are great!

Cheers!