Keezer collar question

[swanwick]

My chest freezer (10.2 Danby) has an extra plastic strip that sticks out from the body around the outside at the top lip of the main body.

When installing the bracket to both the collar and the freezer, I am worried that if I try to screw one set of screws into the collar and the other into the top set of holes on the freezer that this ridge is going to mess things up. I can build the collar to align with the outside of the ridge, but that is going to leave some space between the bottom of the screw plate and the freezer holes.

Is this a simple fix? Can I just place some sort of shim between the plate and the screw holes and screw through the shim?

2nd question: what type of drill bit do you use to go through the plate if things are not lined up for the re-attachment of the bottom plate holes to the top freezer holes?

Sorry for the stupid questions, but I would like to keep my collar as small as possible (4") and I am very DIY inexperienced. A freezer attached collar (rather than lid) sounds simpler and seems to be recommended by more HBT folks.

 

[EasyE]

Can you post some pics of that chest freezer edge. I would say based on you description to just build the collar flush with the outer strip. I can't say for sure without a pic.

I was going to attach the collar to my keezer but then decided not to. I used walnut and it was heavy. I built strips on each side of the wood collar to form a grove so it sits snug, not movement. Here is a link with pics and more info.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/chest-freezer-keezer-conversion-mikees-diy-build-242624/

You could always use liquid nails. Get some at HomeDepot. Once that stuff sets, you should be all set. I was going to use that, did not want to use screws as it might risk hitting a line. Some have used short self drilling screws.

 

[Catt22]

Build the collar to line up with the outside of the plastic ridge strip. Attach the hinges to the collar. Use the two upper holes for this and drill two new holes below those about 3 inches or so. Do not worry about the two lower unused holes. The lids are very light weight, so there's not a lot of stress on the hinges.

I used rope type weather strip caulk to attach the collar to my freezer. The caulk has the consistency of sticky modeling clay. It has been holding my collar in place for more than three years without problems. It is also easily removable if desired and it's very cheap.

http://www.google.com/products/cata...=X&ei=VQPCTdmpBIHPgAeouMnNDg&ved=0CD0Q8wIwBA#

 

[swanwick]

Thanks for the feedback guys. Can't post pics right now because I am on business trip until end of week. Hoping to get project started this weekend.

EasyE - I hear you about not attaching collar to keezer. But, my main question is about re-attaching the hinge when collar is in place. If I line up the collar with the ridge, it is wider than the main part of the keezer where it has the factory drilled holes. This works for the freezer without the collar because the hinge goes around the ridge. But, with the plate now crossing the ridge, if it is vertical, it ends wider than the screw holes.

Catt22 - are you suggesting to drill two new holes in the keezer? If not, I assume you are suggesting to drill all four holes (for each hinge) in the collar, that would require me to go to 6" collar and I would prefer to stay with 4".

 

[Catt22]

Catt22 - are you suggesting to drill two new holes in the keezer? If not, I assume you are suggesting to drill all four holes (for each hinge) in the collar, that would require me to go to 6" collar and I would prefer to stay with 4".

No, absolutely do not drill new holes into the freezer. The risk of hitting a refrigerant line is too great. Yes, all four screws should go into the collar. You should still be able to do it with a 2 x 4 collar. I'm not sure I was clear on it, but you will be drilling two new holes in the hinge as substitutes for the two not used at the very bottom of the hinge where they don't line up with any existing holes. Mine is a 2 X 6 collar, but if I were to do it over again, I would go with 2 x 4 mainly to make it easier to get kegs etc in and out. That extra 2 inches in height makes a big difference. Ain't hind sight great?

 

[swanwick]

Cat22, I see what you are saying now.....Genius. Not sure how I had already made the leap to drilling two new holes in the plate to line up with the factory holes, but not realized I could drill two new holes to make it fit on the 2x4.

I'm thinking the bottom of the plate will hang a bit below the ridge, but that shouldn't be a problem as it will be in the back against the wall.

What do you use to drill through the plate?

 

[Catt22]

Cat22, I see what you are saying now.....Genius. Not sure how I had already made the leap to drilling two new holes in the plate to line up with the factory holes, but not realized I could drill two new holes to make it fit on the 2x4.

I'm thinking the bottom of the plate will hang a bit below the ridge, but that shouldn't be a problem as it will be in the back against the wall.

What do you use to drill through the plate?

Yes, you've got it now. The short lower section that hangs below should not be a problem. Like you said, it will be in the back and not visible.

You can easily drill through the hinge leg with a standard high speed drill bit. Nothing special required. As I mentioned earlier, the lids are very light and they don't put much stress on the hinges at all.