Keezer - Collar attachment Help

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bmickey

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I'm wondering from everyone that has went through this project what is the best way to attached the collar. Currenlty I think I am going to glue the 1"x8" poplar wood collar onto the the freezer permantely and then mount my deep freezer lid on the top of that.

Can you guys let me know how this will work out? I see some with the lid glued to the top of the collar and the whole collar hinges and others glued to the freezer and only the lid hinges.

Thoughts?
 
liquid nails. best stuff ever. even with all the shanks and faucets installed i have no worries about my collar coming away from the lid.
 
I used rope type weatherstripping caulk to attach the collar to my chest freezer. The caulk has the consistency of sticky modeling clay. It's easy to cut to fit and it has enough adhesive property to hold the collar firmly in place. I attached the collar to the freezer body and the lid to the collar. No glue, screws or angle brackets used at all. The real beauty is that everything is reversible as the caulk is easy to remove if desired, so you could restore the freezer to its original condition will little effort if desired. I used 2 X lumber as it provides a wider sealing surface and it's heavier so it counterweights the lid very well. I also insulated the collar which decreased the freezer energy consumption by more than 40%. That was a pleasant and unexpected surprise.

http://www.mrhardware.com/rope-caul...herstripping-a-233.html?cArticlePath=0?osCsid
 
Buy weather stripping and hinge the collar to the unit, then the unit top to the collar. This way you can lift the collar to put heavy kegs in (you won't have to steer a full keg around shanks and such) but lift the top to do whatever maintenance without disturbing the beer and gas lines.

So in a nutshell hinge both, the collar with the hinge that came with the unit and buy another set for the lid to the collar.
 
I Liquid Nailed my collar to the base, worked great and is very solid. I also ran a bead of clear silicone on the inside at the seam to ensure it would be airtight.
 
I used liquid nails to glue a thin piece of plywood to the lid, then attached the collar with liquid nails to the plywood.
 
Catt22 said:
I used rope type weatherstripping caulk to attach the collar to my chest freezer. The caulk has the consistency of sticky modeling clay. It's easy to cut to fit and it has enough adhesive property to hold the collar firmly in place. I attached the collar to the freezer body and the lid to the collar. No glue, screws or angle brackets used at all. The real beauty is that everything is reversible as the caulk is easy to remove if desired, so you could restore the freezer to its original condition will little effort if desired. I used 2 X lumber as it provides a wider sealing surface and it's heavier so it counterweights the lid very well. I also insulated the collar which decreased the freezer energy consumption by more than 40%. That was a pleasant and unexpected surprise.

http://www.mrhardware.com/rope-caulk-insulates-windows-doors-weatherstripping-a-233.html?cArticlePath=0?osCsid

For you guys that used this method can you show me some pics of the finished project? I am thinking of trying this rope caulk but wonder how that messes with the alignment of the hinges?
 
For you guys that used this method can you show me some pics of the finished project? I am thinking of trying this rope caulk but wonder how that messes with the alignment of the hinges?

I can take some pics tomorrow for you, but there really isn't much to see. The rope caulk is simply sandwiched between the 2 x 6 collar and the top of the freezer body. The hinge alignment is not affected at all. The only difference with the hinges is that they are attached to the collar instead of the freezer body. The nice thing about the rope caulk is that it is dirt cheap and if you don't like the way it works for you, it can be removed easily in a matter of minutes. It's pretty much fool proof.
 
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