Keezer build question.

[gwaugh]

Hey everyone. I'm currently building a new keezer and have a question regarding the lid. I built a collar out of 2x8s which I attached to the hinges on the freezer. My original plan was to order a set of replacement hinges and use those to attach the original freezer lid to the collar or simply attach the lid to the collar with silicone or another adhesive.

Now I'm thinking of taking a sheet of plywood and capping off the collar and finishing it with tile and some trim. Is there any reason I shouldn't do this? Is there any reason you have to use the original lid at all? I could line the inside with rigid foam to bring up the R value and give myself a nice flat, sturdy work surface. My keezer is in my basement brew area and I often use the top for a work surface(racking to keg etc.). I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything before I proceed.

 

[CGVT]

I covered mine with tile and used the top of the freezer because I didn't trust my carpentry skills. If I were to do it over I would have built a lid. It probably would have been quicker and looked better.

Check out my build thread in my sig

 

[LegionOfDoom]

The only downside I can see is the weight of the lid. The hinges are designed to hold the included door open. It can obviously be done though, lots of folks attach the collar to the top so when it opens the hoses are out of the way.

If I understand your plan correctly, you plan on hinging the collar to the chest freezer then another set of hinges from the collar to the lid. It's an interesting idea and if you insulate it I suspect it will work. I would hang onto the original lid just in case. Also, if you intend to put extra hinges into the body of the chest freezer be careful you don't drill into a freezer line.

Let me know how it turns out.

 

[CGVT]

I used two sets of freezer hinges. I had a pair that came off of an old freezer. I used one set to attach the collar to the freezer and one set to attach the lid to the collar.

In hind sight (again) I wouldn't bother with the hinges attaching the collar to the freezer. I never open it that way-too many hoses and things to mess up. I just open the lid and prop it up with a 3' piece of wood.

 

[gwaugh]

The only downside I can see is the weight of the lid. The hinges are designed to hold the included door open. It can obviously be done though, lots of folks attach the collar to the top so when it opens the hoses are out of the way.

If I understand your plan correctly, you plan on hinging the collar to the chest freezer then another set of hinges from the collar to the lid. It's an interesting idea and if you insulate it I suspect it will work. I would hang onto the original lid just in case. Also, if you intend to put extra hinges into the body of the chest freezer be careful you don't drill into a freezer .

I don't plan on drilling into the freezer . I took the screws out of the lid, set the collar with weather stripping on top the freezer body, then drilled the collar and attached with bolts. I like the idea of the collar being hinged because its 7 less inches I have to lift a full keg up and over.
I'm now thinking that if I use the original lid on top the collar or build one, it should also be hinged so I have easy access to the faucet connections.

 

[CGVT]

If you do that, make sure that you have enough loose hose so you don't have to unhook all of your gas and liquid lines from your kegs to open the collar

I speak from experience. I ran all of my hoses nice and pretty and used cable clamps to keep everything neat and tidy. The first time I tried to open the collar to replace a keg, I realized that I would have to disconnect everything to do it. I've been opening the top and standing on a chair to replace kegs ever since. Ha!

 

[gwaugh]

Thanks for the advice. I checked out your build and it looks great. I'm looking to do something similar with my top. The post about your tap handle clearance will help a lot. I'm going to check for clearance before I drill the holes.