Just Ordered - Brew Buddy II 50a from Auber

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

twebinc

Supporting Member
HBT Supporter
Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Messages
13
Reaction score
4
Location
Gilbert, AZ
So I sent an email to Auber earlier this week about building a 50a version of the Brew Buddy so I could do back to back batches utilizing 2x ezboil controllers at the same time. They were really responsive and let me know they had one coming real soon. Sure enough, I was able to place the order for it just an hour ago on the newly listed item!

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=64_65&products_id=731

I have 50a service going into my RV garage for this today, super stoked to move to electric. I'm only 6 batches in but I got the brew bug pretty bad. I'll throw up some pics when it arrives!
 
So I sent an email to Auber earlier this week about building a 50a version of the Brew Buddy so I could do back to back batches utilizing 2x ezboil controllers at the same time. They were really responsive and let me know they had one coming real soon. Sure enough, I was able to place the order for it just an hour ago on the newly listed item!

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=64_65&products_id=731

I have 50a service going into my RV garage for this today, super stoked to move to electric. I'm only 6 batches in but I got the brew bug pretty bad. I'll throw up some pics when it arrives!
Sounds interesting. Went to look at it and got this.

Screenshot_20180218-063821.jpg
 
Just thought of a question on your back-to-back approach. Wouldn't you need three pumps to do that?

I guess you could avoid needing three pumps if you don't chill the first batch while performing the mash on the second batch. But if you did, you'd need a water pump for the HLT, a pump to circulate the mash, and a third pump for chilling.

Edit: now that I think about it, if you need ice water to chill to lager temps, you'd need four pumps. Two for the mashing operation, two for chilling.
 
Last edited:
Just thought of a question on your back-to-back approach. Wouldn't you need three pumps to do that?

Edit: now that I think about it, if you need ice water to chill to lager temps, you'd need four pumps. Two for the mashing operation, two for chilling.

The two pump back to back is kind of limited if your are using the second pump for chilling or whirlpooling. I switched back to my immersion chiller to free up my second pump. Once the boil is on both pumps are free in my case. With Texas groundwater, it's a real chore to chill below 80F anyway. I rely heavily on my fermentation chamber to cool the wort. It's tricky but not impossible with two pumps.
 

It arrived yesterday!

Just picked up a stainless steel table for the new setup today as well. I'll be posting some more pics as I get it assembled and test it out.

I'm going to try with 2 pumps, HLT strike water transfer pump turns into the recirculating (HERMS) /lautering/sparging pump with a hose move, and then a chilling pump. This allows for chilling first batch while mashing the second at the same time. Can't really see the need for another simultaneous pump?
 

It arrived yesterday!

Just picked up a stainless steel table for the new setup today as well. I'll be posting some more pics as I get it assembled and test it out.

I'm going to try with 2 pumps, HLT strike water transfer pump turns into the recirculating (HERMS) /lautering/sparging pump with a hose move, and then a chilling pump. This allows for chilling first batch while mashing the second at the same time. Can't really see the need for another simultaneous pump?
What are you going to circulate your HLT with while you're using one pump to chill and the other to circulate the mash?
 
I haven't heard of recirculating the HLT water, does that make the Herms more effective ?
You recirculate the HLT water to make a more consistent water temp i.e no hot/cold spots in your HLT. That way when you circulate the wort through the HERMS coil, it gets to the set temp on the panel and stays there.
 
Absolutely. Think of it this way. Would a kettle full of hot water cool faster sitting in a room with zero air movement or with a fan blowing on it?

If you don't circulate the heat transfer coefficient will be greatly reduced. This is because with no water movement on the outside, the temperature of the water that's right up against the outside tube wall will approach the temperature of the water on the inside of the tube, meaning your temperature differential plummets and consequently the driving force for the heat transfer. Not to mention, there's also the potential for temperature stratification in the HLT (cool on bottom, hot on top).

That's why I figured that to do true back-to-back batches, one would need four pumps. Two for the mash (HLT + MT) and two for the boil (BK + CHILLER WATER).
 
Absolutely. Think of it this way. Would a kettle full of hot water cool faster sitting in a room with zero air movement or with a fan blowing on it?

If you don't circulate the heat transfer coefficient will be greatly reduced. This is because with no water movement on the outside, the temperature of the water that's right up against the outside tube wall will approach the temperature of the water on the inside of the tube, meaning your temperature differential plummets and consequently the driving force for the heat transfer. Not to mention, there's also the potential for temperature stratification in the HLT (cool on bottom, hot on top).

....yeah, what he said.
:bravo:
 
Thanks for the clarification, makes sense now. With 4 probes, I have some options as what to use to control the HLT element. I'm going to experiment with firing the HLT element based on direct MT temp (ss brew tech insulated MT with probe where the thermowell was), outgoing herms coil temp, outgoing MT temp (before going into herms), or traditionally, the HLT temp.

Sounds like without circulation, the traditional HLT temp will be the worst way to control it! I'll also experiment with manually swirling it around, watching what happens to the HERMS out temp!
 
Hello Twebinc, I am considering the 50A brew buddy for my move to electric. Can you tell me what sensors you selected and if they arrived ready to plug and play?

Thanks
 
Hello I went with two of the 1.5 inch threaded ( PT100-L401/2NPT) for T installs and two of the 2 inch weldless (PT100-L50M14.) for kettle install.

I ended up using them differently as initially planned, as the ss brew tech kettle had a hole I was able to use with a 1.5 inch threaded version and the weldless fit nicely in place of the ss brew tech mash tun thermowell (this was initially going to have to be a T on the output).

You can upgrade to 12ft braided from 8ft braided on the probe leads by adding $5 to https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=47&products_id=457 on the order.

Yes it's completely plug and play minus the power cords and holes you have to drill in the kettles for the probes and elements.

I didn't change any of the default heater/pump/power input options.

Here are the power cords and adapters I ended up with.

The 50a input isn't standard NEMA, its a CS standard.

Input power:
NEMA 14-50P Plug to CS6364
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KC10BL0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Element Power 2x: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KKCJRW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Extras:
9/16's bit for weldless probe installs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HQ18ZSO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Pump plug adapters x2 : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074PWGKST/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20


I did have issues with my credit card at checkout, I couldn't get passed step 2 and it looked like the website was failing to provide me with an error. [email protected] sent me a paypal invoice and we took care of it that way. They also answered a ton of questions I had before ordering.
 

Attachments

  • 15198490938844766829423289528905.jpg
    15198490938844766829423289528905.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 197
  • 15198491587932847496724810364381.jpg
    15198491587932847496724810364381.jpg
    2.3 MB · Views: 206
  • 15198492153615494512204361719800.jpg
    15198492153615494512204361719800.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 205
Last edited by a moderator:
good day twebinc,
thanks for the informative post. I have been looking at the Brew Buddy II HERMS Control Panel in 50A for a month now and haven't quite pulled the trigger yet. I wanted to know if and how you are using the four temp probe configuration? Also, how user friendly is the dual channel thermometer? I would greatly appreciate any info you can provide and any insight into how the control panel has improved your brewday.
Cheers!
 
Absolutely. Think of it this way. Would a kettle full of hot water cool faster sitting in a room with zero air movement or with a fan blowing on it?

If you don't circulate the heat transfer coefficient will be greatly reduced. This is because with no water movement on the outside, the temperature of the water that's right up against the outside tube wall will approach the temperature of the water on the inside of the tube, meaning your temperature differential plummets and consequently the driving force for the heat transfer. Not to mention, there's also the potential for temperature stratification in the HLT (cool on bottom, hot on top).

That's why I figured that to do true back-to-back batches, one would need four pumps. Two for the mash (HLT + MT) and two for the boil (BK + CHILLER WATER).

Couldn't you use a big counter flow chiller and slowly gravity feed your wort through while relying on city/well water pressure for the heat sink. With a properly sized chiller and the right flow rates you should be able to knock it down low enough in a single pass for the fermentation chamber to finish the job on days that you're doing a double brew.
 
I haven't heard of recirculating the HLT water, does that make the Herms more effective ?
yes otherwise the temp of the HLT water surrounding the coil is much lower than the rest of the HLT.. It would be like using an immersion chiller and never stirring the wort.
Also eventually the two drastically different temp liquids would start moving around a bit causing fluctuations at different areas of the hlt meaning even if you used the MT temp probe you would still likely get some fluctuations and unstable temps in your mash.
 
Last edited:
good day twebinc,
thanks for the informative post. I have been looking at the Brew Buddy II HERMS Control Panel in 50A for a month now and haven't quite pulled the trigger yet. I wanted to know if and how you are using the four temp probe configuration? Also, how user friendly is the dual channel thermometer? I would greatly appreciate any info you can provide and any insight into how the control panel has improved your brewday.
Cheers!
Sorry to bring back this zombie thread back from the dead, but I have the same question. I'm curious how people are using four temp probe configurations...either with the Brew Buddy or on another system.
 
Sorry to bring back this zombie thread back from the dead, but I have the same question. I'm curious how people are using four temp probe configurations...either with the Brew Buddy or on another system.
I have 4... one for each kettle and one for my rims. many people use one on the exit of the herms coil as well for the reason I stated in my last post above 2 years ago.
 
Sorry to bring back this zombie thread back from the dead, but I have the same question. I'm curious how people are using four temp probe configurations...either with the Brew Buddy or on another system.
The two passive ones can go on the mash drain before the Herms coil and wort return. Alternatively, on the output of a counterflow or plate chiller.
 
Back
Top