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Just got a free cooler? Will this still work for a mash tun?

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Justdrumin

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I just got this cooler for free from my fire station. The plug was broken and we got tired of fixing it. So I figured I could finally make the jump to all grain and turn it into a mash tun seein how I'll just be taking out the plug anyways. My problem is there is a "hump" in the bottom of it on the side where the plug is to accomodate the wheels. Will it still work ok with a hump like that in it? Or will a bunch of wort get caught in the bottom of it? I figured I could just tilt it, but I'm not sure if it'll be enough. I would post pics, but it won't let me for some reason.
 
It might work for you depending on the size of the hump. Try sealing the existing plug and drill a new hole for the valve on the opposite side of the wheel hump.
 
Picture would help I don't have a hump in mine but I've always tilted it to get all the goodies out that shouldn't be a problem welcome to the world of all grain you looking at batch sparging?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
I considered sealing it as well. We'll see I guess. It still won't let me upload pics, but it's roughly 2.5" tall and 8" from the drain hole.

I def plan on batch sparging for sure. I've read a TON about all grain and that seems to be the way to go. I keep buying more and more grain for my pm batches and the guy at my LHBS keeps telling me I need to make a mash tun. I just bought 5 lbs of vienna, 6 lbs of light LME, an ounce of tettnanger, and an ounce of halertau for a vienna lager.
 
You can probably build a manifold in a way to help empty all of it. Host pics on http://tinypic.com and use tbe image tags

My iPad won't let me upload em there either. I can click on the upload button, but it asks me if I want to upload an existing photo or take a new one. When I click on em it doesn't do anything...

ANYWAYS. I like the manifold idea. I've also seen someone take some vinyl tubing that barely fits through the drain hole with a screen. That might work too if I put the screen in the lower section.
 
Ok. So I was able to upload a pic from my phone. What do you think about putting a "Y" inside with a braided hose on the top section and one in the bottom section. Or is that overkill and I'm over thinking it? There's a lip right before it drops into the bottom too.

image.jpg
 
I would think having the manifold in the lower section would suffice, the wort from the upper will mostly make it down and the siphon should pull up the wort.
 
And once the upper drains you would lose suction and not be able to drain the lower. And that would be a lot of lost wort...sad thought...
 
And once the upper drains you would lose suction and not be able to drain the lower. And that would be a lot of lost wort...sad thought...


Not so.
As long as the receiving vessel is well lower, than the siphon pickup point, it will siphon until it reaches the lower level, and the manifold or screen breaks suction.
 
I was actually going to put a y or a t on it and either have a braid on the top and bottom or a square manifold on the top and bottom sections. I figured that would solve the issue you guys are talking about. Thoughts?
 
You wouldn't be able to use two sections. One you start sucking air from the top, the bottom won't pull up any more. Putting one in the bottom will remove the most. I'd say plug the hole and put one on the other end.
 
Yeah id def try and switch sides on that cooler. put the hole at the other end and plug the top one.
 
I have zero experience with all grain. I've been doin lots of research, but haven't read much about how a cooler mash tun actually works and the mechanics of it. It sounded like a good idea, but that's why I post it here and let the ones who have the knowledge chime in. Your idea sounds much better. I'll more than likely put the hole in the other side and do the stainless braid.

Edit: Just a thought. What if I did one manifold that has elbows to go up to the top section?
 
If it steps up like I think it does from the first pic. I'd say you'd be just fine with a diptube coming from the outport and down to the bottom section where you 90 off and use some stainless hose braiding. The bottom vessel is tight enough that you're going to lose very little to broken suction.
 
If it steps up like I think it does from the first pic. I'd say you'd be just fine with a diptube coming from the outport and down to the bottom section where you 90 off and use some stainless hose braiding. The bottom vessel is tight enough that you're going to lose very little to broken suction.

This was my original though, but I was concerned about wort getting trapped in the top section. Do you think the suction will pull it to the lower section?
 
The laws of fluid dynamics and a little known thing called gravity, gonna say, "you'll be just fine."
 
The laws of fluid dynamics and a little known thing called gravity, gonna say, "you'll be just fine."

That's what I figured, but ya never know. Like I said...I have no experience with all grain or all grain equipment. I've done a few pm batches and now the guy at my LHBS is givin me a hard time about how much grain I use in my batches and how I need to just make a mash tun.

So I'm goin with a single stainless braid in the bottom section and callin it a day. Is there any reason I can't use it for my pm batch of Vienna lager this weekend with 5 lbs of grain?
 
If it steps up like I think it does from the first pic. I'd say you'd be just fine with a diptube coming from the outport and down to the bottom section where you 90 off and use some stainless hose braiding. The bottom vessel is tight enough that you're going to lose very little to broken suction.

I think this would work fine. I'd probably build a copper manifold that sits in the lower section of the cooler. Either way, a rigid dip tub that reaches to the lower level should get most of you wort out of there with no problem.

Make your life easier and order a cooler conversion kit from bargainfittings.com or one of the other hardware websites. It's so much easier than trying to piece together a cooler using found parts.
 
Whatever is cheapest and easiest is best. I've seen some very simple cooler tuns make absolutely great beer. The only reason I took mine apart and quit using it is because I built a single tier HERMS system.
 
sorry for the crude drawing

as long as the receiving vessel is below the red-dashed line, the entire tun should drain.

that's the way a siphon works. because, physics.

if you have Papazian's New Complete Joy of Homebrewing, there's an appendix in the back that explains siphoning. that is, my 2nd edition does.

mashtunproblem.jpg
 
sorry for the crude drawing

as long as the receiving vessel is below the red-dashed line, the entire tun should drain.

that's the way a siphon works. because, physics.

if you have Papazian's New Complete Joy of Homebrewing, there's an appendix in the back that explains siphoning. that is, my 2nd edition does.

View attachment 226862

I actually just found palmers explanation of the way a mash tun works and how to make an efficient one too. I'm not done with it, but it's a great write up. After reading it...I'm not sure if I want to do a manifold or not. I've read a TON of threads about manifold vs braid...with little success. The consensus seems to be that the manifold is the way to go for fly sparging, but the braid is good too if you're batch sparging.
 
I actually just found palmers explanation of the way a mash tun works and how to make an efficient one too. I'm not done with it, but it's a great write up. After reading it...I'm not sure if I want to do a manifold or not. I've read a TON of threads about manifold vs braid...with little success. The consensus seems to be that the manifold is the way to go for fly sparging, but the braid is good too if you're batch sparging.

I used Palmer's explanation to build my mash tun manifold. and I batch sparge.

there were a couple other threads here in HBT which helped me build it

99889d1360415908-mash-lauter-tun-coleman-xtreme-70-quart-cooler-img_8297.jpg
 
I built one like that too. But the 2 guys I brew with, both have been brewing longer than me, and both use the braid method with great outcome. Whether batch sparging or fly sparging. The manifold works just as good. What I like about the braid method, if you don't like cleaning the thing out every time, you can buy it on a roll and just make a new braid every time. The manifold will last for years though. Or just long enough for the hobby bug to bite you and you start slowly upgrading everything.
 
I built one like that too. But the 2 guys I brew with, both have been brewing longer than me, and both use the braid method with great outcome. Whether batch sparging or fly sparging. The manifold works just as good. What I like about the braid method, if you don't like cleaning the thing out every time, you can buy it on a roll and just make a new braid every time. The manifold will last for years though. Or just long enough for the hobby bug to bite you and you start slowly upgrading everything.

That confirms it. I was leaning toward the braid for simplicity and I think I've settled. I just might try it out with my vienna lager I'm making this weekend.
 
I built one like that too. But the 2 guys I brew with, both have been brewing longer than me, and both use the braid method with great outcome. Whether batch sparging or fly sparging. The manifold works just as good. What I like about the braid method, if you don't like cleaning the thing out every time, you can buy it on a roll and just make a new braid every time. The manifold will last for years though. Or just long enough for the hobby bug to bite you and you start slowly upgrading everything.

That confirms it. I was leaning toward the braid for simplicity and I think I've settled. I just might try it out with my vienna lager I'm making this weekend.
 
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