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Jones'ing for a stainless fermenter - maybe Delta

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I'll keep an eye out for these updates. Thanks for the info.

I made my first conical unitank 30 years ago out of a 10-gallon corny keg ($45). I removed the bottom of the keg and welded a 60º cone in its place. At the time, this was more out of necessity. Today we have more options when it comes to "homebrewing" conical unitanks than I can count.
 
So I suppose my issue is that I could afford something like a Uni - in fact my wife and I bought recently a $700 plus flour grinder as I bake sourdough bread for us. So I could probably justify spending.. the hard part is justifying the need. Perhaps it is just more than I would need, and feels a bit over the top for what I do.

As for Goldstream.. dang about going out of business. I would be happy to order from Canada.. bought some sail boat parts from Ontario a few years back and B.C. is right next door. I did put something in my shopping cart from them a couple days ago to test.. some fermenter I forget which, and it had the "does not ship to your address". But maybe if I contacted them, they could arrange some kind of shipping (which might be true of the others.) I put a Uni in the Morebeer cart for $649 and with shipping and sales tax (we're at 5% here), the total comes to something like $868. Doable I suppose, but do I need it?

Oi! Thanks for the "food".

This might not be exactly what you’re looking for but if there isn’t a hard ceiling on price and shopping from BC is possible you might check out the sale from Brewha. They have their older style 10 gallon batch size 3-1 jacketed fermenters on sale for less than $800 and they have always been extremely reasonable about shipping, just email them and the founder Nathan will probably respond personally with a quote. I can also say it’s a very well made fermenter and if you decide later to use it as an all in one vessel you can mash and boil in it as well.

Some people here can find a reason to hate anything and find theoretical faults with any option so I would suggest thinking about what really matters to you in the way you will actually use the thing. For instance I have a 30psi unitank but I don’t pressure ferment so what’s the point? If a fermenter is only rated for pressure transfer that’s not a negative to me, but that might be different for you. Similarly the 1.5” bottom drain complaints don’t resonate with me because I’ve never had a problem with them and commercial fermenters up to 50bbl have been made with 1.5” valves for decades so I’m not convinced thats a significant problem. Sometimes the negatives that people mention have an extremely simple work around, or maybe that solution wouldn’t work for your situation.
I do think you’re right to be thinking about cleaning, especially for a conical because some of them can weigh almost 200lbs. Not a big deal if you have a floor drain but maybe a deal breaker if you don’t. I guess my point is, lots of good suggestions here and the more you narrow down how you will actually use it, the easier it is to cut through the noise and disregard the things that don’t really matter to you to find the solution that you’ll actually enjoy using.
 
This might not be exactly what you’re looking for but if there isn’t a hard ceiling on price and shopping from BC is possible you might check out the sale from Brewha. They have their older style 10 gallon batch size 3-1 jacketed fermenters on sale for less than $800 and they have always been extremely reasonable about shipping, just email them and the founder Nathan will probably respond personally with a quote. I can also say it’s a very well made fermenter and if you decide later to use it as an all in one vessel you can mash and boil in it as well.

Some people here can find a reason to hate anything and find theoretical faults with any option so I would suggest thinking about what really matters to you in the way you will actually use the thing. For instance I have a 30psi unitank but I don’t pressure ferment so what’s the point? If a fermenter is only rated for pressure transfer that’s not a negative to me, but that might be different for you. Similarly the 1.5” bottom drain complaints don’t resonate with me because I’ve never had a problem with them and commercial fermenters up to 50bbl have been made with 1.5” valves for decades so I’m not convinced thats a significant problem. Sometimes the negatives that people mention have an extremely simple work around, or maybe that solution wouldn’t work for your situation.
I do think you’re right to be thinking about cleaning, especially for a conical because some of them can weigh almost 200lbs. Not a big deal if you have a floor drain but maybe a deal breaker if you don’t. I guess my point is, lots of good suggestions here and the more you narrow down how you will actually use it, the easier it is to cut through the noise and disregard the things that don’t really matter to you to find the solution that you’ll actually enjoy using.
Wow, good stuff. I am aware that folks have experiences or have heard things that are different from others. So I do take that into account. I am following a few brewers on the youtubes and take some of what they say under consideration.. though as you say.. people have different experiences (especially when they might be sponsored there).

I will take a look at Brewha - thanks for the suggestion.
As for pressure fermenting, the youtubes sure are full of it now.. seems to be trending. So maybe I have a bit of FOMO.. also the ability to naturally carbonate under pressure.. people wouldn't believe the cost of CO2 here as the shipping is hazmat. The cost of living in paradise! But I'm undecided about all that. I appreciate the dialog here (and hopefully will help others in their search for what to get) and have a lot to think about. Something will eventually present itself. Half tempted to just buy a 6.5 gallon corny ($151 on amazon with free shipping) plus an altered lid (maybe with the tri-clamp feature) and use that a bit - see if a sale pops up on a conical if I still want to try that route. But I will contact Brewha. I've also written to Goldstream.

For cleaning a conical I had the idea of building a small wood stand for it high enough to get a bucket under it.
 
I made my first conical unitank 30 years ago out of a 10-gallon corny keg ($45). I removed the bottom of the keg and welded a 60º cone in its place. At the time, this was more out of necessity. Today we have more options when it comes to "homebrewing" conical unitanks than I can count.
Wish I could tig weld! Can't justify tho learning it and equipping at this stage of the game. Though I'm confident I could. But yes, a dizzying array of choice!
 
off topic but for sh*ts and giggles when I was doing extract brewing (started back in the mid 70's - actually brewed some wine when I was 14 earlier), here is a label I stuck on one of my bottled brews. Moonlight springs is where we get our water. Really good water.
 

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I have a small SS from Delta and a small Anvil SS bucket. I would not buy another Anvil bucket, and I’m happy with the Delta. Okay there’s my 2 cents. I’ve read that a long soak in Starsan would get aromas out of plastic. I’ve never noticed a plastic fermenter transferring aroma to the next beer.
Thanks for the data points. It would be easier if you said you didn't like either! (I jokes).
 
Given your goals and location (i.e., shipping challenge), the Delta Fermtank TC seems like a fine fit at a good price. I share your preference to reduce plastic parts.

btw, you may find dumping trub into your smallish sink to be fairly straightforward. (That said, I'm glad of my 24x24 sink, which simplifies cleaning large vessels.)
I keep an eye on sinks, but amazon generally charges about $500. There is a Vevor for $450, but the comments... I make do. My sink is maybe 18" square, maybe 21 x 18, I forget.. but the faucet takes up a lot of that.

Thanks for the response! Still looking at the Delta.. but I have some soul searching to do.

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off topic but for sh*ts and giggles when I was doing extract brewing (started back in the mid 70's - actually brewed some wine when I was 14 earlier), here is a label I stuck on one of my bottled brews. Moonlight springs is where we get our water. Really good water.
And it was done with a typewriter, very high tech back then!
 
do I need it?
People can make fine beer in plastic buckets. Just sayin'.

It's satisfying to be able to minimize oxygen ingress. And notwithstanding improvements in plastics, they're still plastic. Is that a need? Sort of.

Best of luck with your next fermenter, whatever it turns out to be!
 
People can make fine beer in plastic buckets. Just sayin'.
How I started. Actually, my first batch in a plastic bucket was made with 2 other fellows while in college. We drank a bit too much during the brew day and none of us quite knew what the other was doing. Anyway.. we ended up with exploding bottles in the closet and undrinkable beer. I did have success after that debacle.

It's satisfying to be able to minimize oxygen ingress. And notwithstanding improvements in plastics, they're still plastic. Is that a need? Sort of.

Best of luck with your next fermenter, whatever it turns out to be!
Thanks - you gave me some good stuff to think on, as did everyone else.
 
Since one of your concerns is cleaning, I had to clean my two X2s (7 gal) this week. I have been trying different methods over the course of several brews, some of that I have discussed on other threads. My current thinking is to not use CIP as it did not perform well with my brew pumps. A stronger pump might do better. However, I still feel like many of the TC fittings and add-ons need hand washing since I don't have a setup configured to recirculate through all the fittings. What seems to work is a good soak of the fermenter with all fittings below the lid still attached. This allows soaking the krausen ring. Then I clean the inside body of the conical and remove and soak everything except I clean the carb stone fitting separate. My X2s sit on a SS table. I'm an older, some years to go before retirement middle aged guy, not as fit as I used to be but hale. I just racked both unis. I disassembled the first one forgetting to soak first. The second one, I didn't dump the yeast cake. The second was heavy but it was manageable to bring to the floor. I could have taken the lid off and dumped the yeast cake. The X2s have a full lid, plus mine have coils and two valves on top. I may have taken the coil out. Completely stripped, the conical is very light and easy to move around. Stripped, the body does fit in my utility sink, but upside down the nose is higher than the sink top. I soak them right outside in the driveway, then I drain there. I have one of Bobby's short sight glasses, a valve and an elbow on the dump port. I need the elbow unfortunately. On the first one, I dumped the yeast cake into a one gallon pitcher. I could slide the uni to the table edge to drain into a bucket if I wanted to. It's too high with the table to fill for soaking and cleaning though. If soaked, the conical body is easy to clean. All the attachments do take time to clean. But consider if not using a conical, you may be using them anyway. My mini-bucket, still cleaning the racking valve, the blowoff tube, the top butterfly valve I use with TC port I added, the lid with it's thermowell, and its coil. I also have to clean the O2 wand.

Now my X2 fully accessorized and full, moving that might be a ball breaker! But I don't do that! I pump out of the BK, pressure/gravity drain to keg.

A note about cooling. If you wanted to lager as an example, you'd need to cool any fermenter in some fashion. A small conical-5 gallon batch size- can probably fit in many of the same size ferm chambers other fermenters fit in. Glycol chiller isn't required. Pros and cons to using one however. The ferm chamber cost though is because you are lagering or deciding to cold crash not because you bought the conical.

My E-Brew system began with 3 keggles, now 2 (HLT, BK). A 1/4 barrel while not as heavy as a 1/2, has an initial weight to it. Both my keggles are heavy with their valves and with the HERMS coil, the HLT is a beast to move around. When someone mentions they are older, I know the feeling so I try to mention the initial weight involved as pots are lighter.
 
^ @fluketamer just hit a big nail on the head there.... No matter what you get, it'll need to be cleaned and since it sounds like that'll involve an undesirable carrying upstairs, you might want to think about getting a CIP ball and suitable pump... no matter what you settle on, having a CIP rig allows you to (as the name states) Clean In Place as long as you have the drainage. If you get a smaller CIP ball, it could fit in the neck of a sanke if you go that way and it'll use lower pressure than a larger ball and give you more leeway on an affordable pump. *..A CIP rig can also aid in easier brew-day cleanup of your kettle and mash tun (if you use one).
....just sayin':mug:
 
cleaning is the only thing preventing me from getting a SS conical. i like the light weight of my fermzilla. i fear having to lift and empty that SS when rinsing .
I hear you. I think it was the Apartment Brewer on youtube who reviewed an X2 and mentioned how much cleaning all the parts takes. Got me rethinking. Love the jacketed unit for cold crashing.. but if I can find an upright freezer or even a refrigerator big enough to fit whatever I get, and something light enough to hoist in or out for cleaning and whatever.. I'm over 70 but work out at the gym 5 days a week.. but even with that my bones and fingers are starting to feel it.
 
I will say that the converted kegs are not much heavier than a standard corny keg and I just use a DIY keg washer to clean my converted kegs. A 4" ferrule will give me more options such as using glycol chilling coils, thermowell, hop bong, etc. as well as let me see inside the keg a bit more.

I still want a SS bucket fermenter for wine.
 
I will say that the converted kegs are not much heavier than a standard corny keg and I just use a DIY keg washer to clean my converted kegs. A 4" ferrule will give me more options such as using glycol chilling coils, thermowell, hop bong, etc. as well as let me see inside the keg a bit more.

I still want a SS bucket fermenter for wine.
A five gallon cornelius keg weighs about 9 lbs and a slim quarter keg weighs about 22 lbs according to Kegworks.

A 1/2 barrel weighs 30 lbs empty. A keggle would weigh a little less but typically the rim is left and it is just the very top cut out.
 
I'm fortunate to have a larger single bowl sink (as opposed to a double bowl sink) in my basement which my CF10 fits into.

For cleaning I set the conical inside the sink, remove the top lid, open the bottom valve and rinse out (with my pull out faucet) followed by removing all the valves and accessories and let them soak in a bucket of hot PBW.

Then I use a blue scotch brite pad (non-scratching) with barkeepers friend to scrub the inside, followed by a rinse, air dry and reassembly the following day.
 
With the top and accessories removed, a stainless bucket fermenter isn't heavy. I wonder about the weight of conicals, especially the jacketed ones.
My 8 gallon is ~ 85 lbs

On regards to cleaning, I brew and ferment in the garage. I hook up a 10 foot hose to the bottom drain (1.5"!) and discharge into the yard. With my frequency of brewing it just integrates naturally.
 
With the top and accessories removed, a stainless bucket fermenter isn't heavy. I wonder about the weight of conicals, especially the jacketed ones.
I am going to weigh mine as I put it together later. Right not, stripped without lid and any fittings but with the neoprene and heater pad it is 18 lb. Brewbuilt X2 7 gallons, no extra legs, no wheels.
 
My 8 gallon is ~ 85 lbs

On regards to cleaning, I brew and ferment in the garage. I hook up a 10 foot hose to the bottom drain (1.5"!) and discharge into the yard. With my frequency of brewing it just integrates naturally.
I think you missed the decimal point?

Mods can delete this if it gets corrected from 85 lbs!
 
In my youtube searches, I have seen that option. The best thing about one of those is easier to pick up and dump for cleaning into my too small sink than the bucket/conicals would be - hence the desire for bottom drain on those. Assume you could figure out a thermowell for controlling temps somehow.. I can search that. Or tape the temp probe to the side under a blanket or something. I'll take another look there.

Is the 6.5 gallon good enough considering active krausen/foaming? I suppose there's ways to mitigate that.. fermtabs or under pressure.
Depending on the recipe - a 6.5 g should be able to handle a 5 g batch to the fermenter. Might wanna use some foam "chill" drops. Can't recall the name. Been doing 5 g in 6.5 corny with no problems but all lower ABV recipes (5.5% or less).
 
I am going to weigh mine as I put it together later. Right not, stripped without lid and any fittings but with the neoprene and heater pad it is 18 lb. Brewbuilt X2 7 gallons, no extra legs, no wheels.
With the bottom fittings on- 30.6 lbs This includes an elbow and sight glass which are 34 oz. Also thermowell, racking cane, and gas stone.
Lid and band-69 oz
Two valves on lid, blowoff-100 oz
coil-56oz
Total 46.4 lbs

That's an idea on the weights, a bit dependent on model but ballpark figures.

I keep my X2s on a table. To clean, I take off the lid. Then I lift it down (30.6 lbs) to the floor and cleaned from there. Clean I put the stripped conical back on the table (18.0 lbs) and reassemble. I pump in the wort and mostly gravity drain the beer with some CO2 into kegs. I wouldn't want to wrestle it around full of wort at all.
 
stripped conical back on the table (18.0 lbs)
So, it could be a mere 18 pounds to carry to the sink except you gotta keep the bottom fittings (elbow, butterfly valve) on, so a bit more weight semi-stripped. Not so heavy that CIP is necessary, yes?
wrestle it around full
I understand. Moving full glass fermenters was ordinary for me until I got a Spike Flex+. Now I only carry full kegs (and the empty fermenter.)
 
Oh, I thought you were referring to your Brew Bucket! Ok but that's the shipping weight, also useful to the OP but not the actual weight. SS Brewtech states a weight of 32lbs for a Chronical 2 assembled (7 gallon). Is that the Chronical you have? SS Brewtech provides a fair number of accessories too but I would say that's still a little underestimated. If you have a decent human scale you could weigh you while holding the conical and then without. The X2 feet just fit on mine and then I was able to weigh parts on my grain scale.

My mini-bucket (4 gallon) I haven't weighed but a super-easy cleanup, small, light, fits in the sink. Brew Bucket 2 they say is 11 lbs and 15"x15". So about the same height as my mini and 4" wider diameter, but the Classic shows different 12.5" width x 20.5" height, no weight.
 
So, it could be a mere 18 pounds to carry to the sink except you gotta keep the bottom fittings (elbow, butterfly valve) on, so a bit more weight semi-stripped. Not so heavy that CIP is necessary, yes?

I understand. Moving full glass fermenters was ordinary for me until I got a Spike Flex+. Now I only carry full kegs (and the empty fermenter.)
Yes, it could be just 18lbs to the sink. I can handle mine fine at 30.6 and will be soaking it freestanding. I could clean in the sink with it standing up technically but it's easier in the driveway. Plus my fermentation control panel is a short distance directly across from the sink which is a pinchpoint walking through. If you click my profile then the Media tab, that's my current setup. Sink is out of sight left. (It's a basic plastic laundry sink w/a demo'ed bathroom vanity next to it. Butt-ugly and always a disaster area!) Using an extra hose and ball lock jumper to pump wort from far right BK to the leftmost fermenter and the ones between. Package to kegs, take the fermenter lid off. Move X2 to floor, soak in driveway. Strip remaining fittings, wash in sink. Stripped fermenter back on table, reassemble X2. The 14 gallon is on wheels and leg extensions. Too big for my sink! I am only just brewing my first batch now in it. I'm not trying to push a conical here either, just providing a detailed example for comparison.
 
I forgot I meant to weigh the neoprene and stick on heating pad. I had a heating pad fail and removed it. Those two weigh 1lb 13 so stripped is 16lb 3oz if not using both.
 
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"There are almost as many ways to brew as there are Homebrewers."
I'm disabled and have to adhere to some pretty strict ergonomics and even then I tend to do things that my body should not be doing...one of the things is handling heavy loads. My favourite fermenters are my Fermonsters and Sankes. Like in @Hunky 's picture, I have a smallish laundry sink that I do many brewing tasks in....to the left of mine is my washing machine and I've taken my full-sized and heavy all steel 15.5G sanke, set it on a sponge pad on my washing machine, poured sterilized water in and swished it around to tilt it over and harvest yeast in a pitcher in the laundry tub, and then proceded to wash it out with a hose (followed by PBW soak and more rinsing) in the laundry tub. My physical bar is very low so if I can do it, most others can.
.....just sayin'...but I think we've given the OP a dizzying array of options!
My personal recommendation is still: Start Cheap and see what you can do (with my own bias toward sanke's with no extra attachment other than a head with a floating diptube) and see how you feel with it. (Biased side note: Poly top/bottom kegs are really lightwieght and easy to handle.)
:mug:
 
Oh, I thought you were referring to your Brew Bucket! Ok but that's the shipping weight, also useful to the OP but not the actual weight. SS Brewtech states a weight of 32lbs for a Chronical 2 assembled (7 gallon). Is that the Chronical you have?
I’ll let SHO answer the question if he wants to but he’s not inflating the weight of his fermenter. The shipping weight is the actual weight of the unit, it’s an incredibly well built pro-level product. FYI the 10 gallon size is 158lbs which is why I made the earlier comment about some conicals approaching 200lbs when they are all kitted out with multiple butterfly valves, stainless blowoff tube, PRV etc. It’s great to see that the consumer grade stuff is lighter though, that allows a lot more flexibility in cleaning etc.
 
I’ll let SHO answer the question if he wants to but he’s not inflating the weight of his fermenter. The shipping weight is the actual weight of the unit, it’s an incredibly well built pro-level product. FYI the 10 gallon size is 158lbs which is why I made the earlier comment about some conicals approaching 200lbs when they are all kitted out with multiple butterfly valves, stainless blowoff tube, PRV etc. It’s great to see that the consumer grade stuff is lighter though, that allows a lot more flexibility in cleaning etc.
Shoengine mentioned to me in an older private message that he has a Brew Bucket and Chronical. The wording in the post he responded to made me think it was the Bucket weight, but rereading I see it was the conical he was referring to.

Now these are the actual specs from the SS Brewtech page on the Chronical 2. I am only guessing that 85lb is the suggested conservative shipping weight but I don't know the exact model and accessories. I'll weigh my SS Bretech 14 gallon 1.0 unitank when it's done fermenting. It's for 10 gallon batches. I am doubtful it is over 100 lbs even with wheels. leg extensions, and accessories.
1000016576.jpg
 
"There are almost as many ways to brew as there are Homebrewers."
I'm disabled and have to adhere to some pretty strict ergonomics and even then I tend to do things that my body should not be doing...one of the things is handling heavy loads. My favourite fermenters are my Fermonsters and Sankes. Like in @Hunky 's picture, I have a smallish laundry sink that I do many brewing tasks in....to the left of mine is my washing machine and I've taken my full-sized and heavy all steel 15.5G sanke, set it on a sponge pad on my washing machine, poured sterilized water in and swished it around to tilt it over and harvest yeast in a pitcher in the laundry tub, and then proceded to wash it out with a hose (followed by PBW soak and more rinsing) in the laundry tub. My physical bar is very low so if I can do it, most others can.
.....just sayin'...but I think we've given the OP a dizzying array of options!
My personal recommendation is still: Start Cheap and see what you can do (with my own bias toward sanke's with no extra attachment other than a head with a floating diptube) and see how you feel with it. (Biased side note: Poly top/bottom kegs are really lightwieght and easy to handle.)
:mug:

I've been looking at many reviews of many different things. One thing I've been thinking about is yeast harvesting and how to do it with a bucket type. With the Anvil bucket's racking arm nearly to the bottom of the tank it seems it would be easy. Not having to worry about 1.5" or 2" dump valves. So hearing how you do it is interesting. Oxidation not a problem with that method I suppose? I'm also not sure how often I would yeast harvest.

the sanke keg idea is appealing, but I'm just not drinking enough for 10 gallon batches. I have several 15 gallon kegs in stock.. one set up to do fermenting, but just don't do it. Looking around online for a 1/4 barrel keg, I would still be spending upwards of $300 plus just for the keg (and shipping) before I start in with fittings. Keeping an eye out for cheaper. It is rather fun (and frustrating) to be thinking of this stuff.

My current setup works. I can pressure transfer (though no racking arm - have to tilt the fermenter - no biggy). I'll definitely be doing some more batches with it before getting stainless. I cobbled together a rough fermentation chamber with foam just to keep the electricity use down when keeping the temp in the 60's F. I have to huff it into the chest freezer to cold crash, though I could think about a cooling coil thru a different lid.. but that's getting a bit crowded.

One minute I'm going to go for a bucket.. next a conical.. and back again. Still enjoying seeing the comments.. as you say.. many options to think about.

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One minute I'm going to go for a bucket.. next a conical.. and back again. Still enjoying seeing the comments.. as you say.. many options to think about.
Something about how you wrote that reminded me so much of why I like the Spike Flex +. I’ve got bigger fancier conicals but I really think the flex hits the sweet spot for price, functionality, weight, features etc. I have read that the old lid seals were a little difficult but I have the newer seal and have never had a problem with mine. The only negative is the lack of a bottom dump valve but a lot of people with conicals never use that anyway. As you mentioned earlier there are even other ways to harvest yeast. Yes you need a bottom valve for CIP, but you don’t need CIP with something light and small enough to lift into a sink and clean with a 2 minute sponge wash. I know Spike has them in their bargain cave from time to time and they come up used a lot in the $4-600 range. Maybe a private sale from the lower 48 with shipping is a possibility?
 
Shoengine mentioned to me in an older private message that he has a Brew Bucket and Chronical. The wording in the post he responded to made me think it was the Bucket weight, but rereading I see it was the conical he was referring to.

Now these are the actual specs from the SS Brewtech page on the Chronical 2. I am only guessing that 85lb is the suggested conservative shipping weight but I don't know the exact model and accessories. I'll weigh my SS Bretech 14 gallon 1.0 unitank when it's done fermenting. It's for 10 gallon batches. I am doubtful it is over 100 lbs even with wheels. leg extensions, and accessories.
View attachment 883678
Ah, I was wondering where that came from. I do have those but I also have a Brewers Hardware 8 gal. Cleaning is a cinch but without a drain is a bit more onerous. CIP would be great but would probably take me than the 15 minutes it takes me to clean currently.

437.jpg

Cleaning configuration. Note the CO2 for knocking out the trub plug.

440.jpg


7 gal on the left (25lbs in cleaning configuration), 8 gal on right (87 lbs in cleaning configuration, with the jacket full of coolant)

I love this thing but the brew bucket was one of the best upgrades I ever had (coming from glass).
 
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Ah, I was wondering where that came from. I do have those but I also have a Brewers Hardware 8 gal. Cleaning is a cinch but without a drain is a bit more onerous. CIP would be great but would probably take me than the 15 minutes it takes me to clean currently.

View attachment 883692
Cleaning configuration. Note the CO2 for knocking out the trub plug.

View attachment 883694

7 gal on the left (25lbs in cleaning configuration), 8 gal on right (87 lbs in cleaning configuration)

I love this thing but the brew bucket was one of the best upgrades I ever had (coming from glass).
Aha and one of those too. OK got it!!

I like the minibucket and can do much of what I can in the unitank with the TC port on it. I think perhaps the price has gotten a bit high on the Brew Bucket Pro but the classic is priced $100 less and can often be found used.

Flex + I liked that it has additional TC ports vs what I saw with the regular Flex. I was going to look it up as far as a dump port but I see @Whisky River addressed that and getting it in the sink. The legs on mine X2 place it a bit high in the sink with the rim about the top bend of my faucet sprayer. If you look close, there's a bar holding the sprayer head. The faucet is like a restaurant sprayer but not as long or tall. That bar also gets in the way but I like the sprayer head. Working in the sink, something with shorter legs or base could be a plus depending on your faucet.

I did like the original choice of the Fermtank. I bank yeast by overbuilding my starters instead of collecting it post fermentation but I do dump trub and dry hops. I use a TC screen on my tracking arm but NEIPA's I have been working on cold crashing and clearing some hops out through the dump port. Still a work in process. There are floating dip tube transfer options as well. A small diameter racking arm might clog harvesting yeast. You can apply a small amount of CO2 to avoid oxidation. You might blast it out with a tank so something like a Cold Crash Guardian might work a little calmer.
 
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