Jaybird's Stainless False Bottoms

[passedpawn]

I highly recommend you deburr that dip tube

I did right after the photo. Looks a bit gnarley there doesn't it!

 

[forcabrew]

Hey Jaybird any new custom projects in the works? Maybe a hop screen that works with pellet hops for a bottom draining keggle. (hint hint)

Cheers

 

[dburgette]

Hey Jaybird any new custom projects in the works? Maybe a hop screen that works with pellet hops for a bottom draining keggle. (hint hint)

Cheers

I'm in for one.

 

[NinjaJoe]

I'm in for one.

Me too!

 

[Jaybird]

Ohhh you guys are somehow in my head! We have been working with an industrial manufacturing company here in the US and coming up with what we are calling the "Trub Trap" Trade Mark is in the works as we speak. We are waiting for new screen to show up so we can test and get the right mesh size. But yes! I should have the new screen in about 5 to 7 days and when I get it I am wasting no time getting the new screen tested and ready for market. This is something that will work with all the false bottoms we offer and stop pellet hop mess from going to the plate chillers and fermenter. As we all know we will never stop 100% but we can try!
The really killer thing is its stackable. If you want to stop more add more Trub Traps in line and choose tighter screen mesh. I really dont want to say to much because we have only tested the one screen and although it worked killer I think we can do better....Besides its a killer reason to brew back to back batches
More to come but I will start a new thread about the Trub Trap and add the link here too.
Was there a leak of information here somewhere because I really dont remember telling anyone about this......Or were you just fishing?


Cheers
Jay

 

[forcabrew]

Stoked. Can't wait! I'll be in line for the those

 

[dburgette]

Was there a leak of information here somewhere because I really dont remember telling anyone about this......Or were you just fishing?

Cheers
Jay

I think it was just wishful thinking and what a great wish come true.

 

[forcabrew]

I only asked because I was trying to configure something for my new bottom draining keggle eherms build. Knowing that you did custom work with the false bottoms I figured I'd throw it out there and if you said no id ask if you if you'd be able to assist me in brainstorming for my build

I never thought you would say that there was already something in the works

 

[Jaybird]

Well I have been working on coming up with something simple yet effective. I'll keep you all posted on how its coming together.


Also I want to remind you guys about the leap year free shipping deal on all orders over $89.99. Its ending tomorrow. We also have the 10.99 2 pc and 13.99 3 pc stainless ball valve offer ending tomorrow night as well.


Cheers
Jay

 

[bmbigda]

Jay - what is the hole diameter you use for your false bottoms? Is that proprietary information? I'm a plate chiller user, considering a 2 stage filtration. I'm thinking one of your false bottoms would make a great 1st stage for whole hops and a percentage of pellet, then rely on whirlpool and something with finer mesh for the remainder of pellet hops.

Good luck with your trub trap design. I look forward to seeing it.

 

[Option]

Waited until the last minute but finally ordered my fb with diptube, just hoping I can get the figment right once I drill the keggle. Also picked up some 3 piece valves. Thanks jay!!!

 

[Mrbrownfolks]

I've been taken care of.

 

[dburgette]

My order got screwed up. I paid for but didn't get a dip tube, hinge or silicon tubing. I can deal with shipping being later than quoted but I'm incensed at the fact that I didn't get what I paid for. I tried emailing yesterday to check on my delivery but haven't hear anything from email or pm.

Not to worry my friend. From my experience you will be taken care of. I have seen and experienced great customer service from jaybird. I do know they opened a new shop, so they may be busy. They will make it right.

 

[Jaybird]

My order got screwed up. I paid for but didn't get a dip tube, hinge or silicon tubing. I can deal with shipping being later than quoted but I'm incensed at the fact that I didn't get what I paid for. I tried emailing yesterday to check on my delivery but haven't hear anything from email or pm.

I think where the mix up came from is the PM's here on HBT we were talking about a cooler kit and thats what you gave me measurements and instructions for, then you ordered a keg conversion kit and left me cooler measurement notes when you placed the order, honestly I just thought you hit the wrong key when you ordered. I have to take full responsibility for your order as I read the notes and was sending you what we talked about here.
I will get you a keg conversion kit in the mail tomorrow morning if that is really what you need and send it out 2-3 day priority.
Very sorry for the mix up.
Jay

Not to worry my friend. From my experience you will be taken care of. I have seen and experienced great customer service from jaybird. I do know they opened a new shop, so they may be busy. They will make it right.

This means a lot to me my friend! Thank you!
Cheers
Jay

 

[csamson]

I got my FB a few weeks ago and have done 2 batches with it so far. I have been having a lot of problems with a stuck mash. I'm using a 15" hinged and the diptube sits about 1/4" off the bottom of my keg. My first batch had a few problems and I had to blow back through the tube connected to my pump to unstick the mash. For my second batch I made sure all the connections were perfect and fit super tight. But like an idiot, brewed a dunkleweisen for an upcoming competition, it got totally stuck and even by blowing back into the mash could not get it to flow. I had to dump my mash into my old cooler mash tun to finish it out.

What am I doing wrong?? I've never used a false bottom before and have a hell of a time putting it together each time, but it looks good when I get it all ready. I end up with a ton of grain below the FB after the mash as well. I'm scared to use it again and have thought about switching to the stainless braid. But I have read so many good reviews it must be something that I'm doing wrong?

 

[jkarp]

Do you mill your own grain csamson? If so, how fine are you going? I've never had a single stuck mash since switching to one of Jay's false bottoms, but I'd only ever had a couple with the previous stainless braid, to be honest. Some grain getting through is normal. That's why a vorlauf is necessary to set the grain bed. Once set though, I get super clear wort and can recirculate at the full rate of a march pump.

Also, did you use any rice hulls on that Dunkelweizen? Wheat malt has no husk of course so something is needed to make the filter bed.

 

[ScottSingleton]

Jay;

I've got a 80qt pot I need a false bottom for and I didn't see a matching size listed on your site.

The thing is an 80qt "Update" brand SS kettle from instaware. You can see it here:

http://www.instawares.com/stainless-steel-stock-pot-sps-80.upi-sps80.0.7.htm?view=list

It lists the diameter as 20" but the actual internal diameter appears to be about 19 and 7/8. I'm assuming the dimensions listed on the site are external dimensions.

 

[csamson]

I do mill my own grain but never had problems with the factory mill crush setting when I was using a copper manifold with a cooler. I figured the setting would be fine but maybe I should adjust it? I used what I had on hand for rice hulls for the Dunkelweisen but it was only a few cups I'd say. I couldn't even get a vorlauf going on the Dunkelweisen. I've seen people cut holes in the bottom of the dip tube as well. Maybe I can try that too. Planning to brew again this weekend so I need to make some sort of adjustment ASAP.

 

[jbaysurfer]

So can I ask questions on this thread about my falsebottom?

I met Jaybird in person like 2 months ago on the day he happened to be moving his shop. Unfortunately he had already packed and moved the parts I was looking for (stainless fittings) so he told me to let him know when I ordered online and he'd cut me a break on shipping. As promised he did just that. I also orderd a FB at that time, and worked with another guy (I forgot his name, but he was awesome!) when placing that order. I now have the FB, and have done 3 brews with it.

My question also has to do with Vorlaufing. I'm having a hell of a time, if not an impossible time trying to get the wort to run clear. I have to drain nearly the whole batch (batch sparging in a 10g cooler) to get what seems like a half/assed bed set.

My first batch I was making a pliney clone and it called for mash hopping, so I figured it might have been the leafhops I used. But my next mash was the same problem, and it was a 1.105 dark belgian. It's hard to expect that one to get clear so I vorlaufed half the mash before carefully re-adding it and draining, and didn't worry about it. TBH, I have no idea how that beer will turn out since it's still fermenting. It smelled great in fermentation though...I used the belgian blend from WL.

My most recent batch was a pale, and I had the same issue with vorlauf/bedsetting.

I get my grain pre-milled from morebeer, so I'm assuming that it's not the crush. Any help?? Do I need to use rice hulls (or whatever it is I read about from time to time..sorry I'm new to AG) or do something different? Everything I keep hearing tells me that 1 or 2 quarts should have my wort running very clear, but that's just not what's happening. I'm either getting somewhat clear-ER wort after a couple gallons, or just settling for cloudy wort, but it's not what I think I should be getting.

Thanks, and sorry to crash the thread..but it is indeed a testimonial, and I love the false bottom, perfect fit, and service was outstanding!

 

[passedpawn]

So can I ask questions on this thread about my falsebottom?

Save your clams and buy a pump. I've got a jaybird FB and after a couple of minutes of vorlaufing with the pump it's completely clear. I don't think it's necessary to have clear wort to the BK, and I'm not really sold that vorlaufing is necessary at all, though, but that's a topic for a different place.

 

[jbaysurfer]

Save your clams and buy a pump. I've got a jaybird FB and after a couple of minutes of vorlaufing with the pump it's completely clear. I don't think it's necessary to have clear wort to the BK, and I'm not really sold that vorlaufing is necessary at all, though, but that's a topic for a different place.

A pump is my next major purchase actually. Do you open the valve all the way and then just recirc back into the tun?

Thanks for the response. It's very cool that I've only asked a hanful of questions on this forum overall, and you've answered two of them.

FWIW and OT, that All cascade IPA (pitched at 90f thread) never did get any better. It's still in a keg, but if I ever get to the point I need to use that keg, I'm dumping the beer.

Shhh..don't tell Revy.

 

[dburgette]

A pump is my next major purchase actually. Do you open the valve all the way and then just recirc back into the tun?
.

Throttle it back to a slow speed and recirculate back into mt Then open it slightly and let it recirculate for 5 minutes and it will be crystal clear.

 

[Jaybird]

I got my FB a few weeks ago and have done 2 batches with it so far. I have been having a lot of problems with a stuck mash. I'm using a 15" hinged and the diptube sits about 1/4" off the bottom of my keg. My first batch had a few problems and I had to blow back through the tube connected to my pump to unstick the mash. For my second batch I made sure all the connections were perfect and fit super tight. But like an idiot, brewed a dunkleweisen for an upcoming competition, it got totally stuck and even by blowing back into the mash could not get it to flow. I had to dump my mash into my old cooler mash tun to finish it out.

What am I doing wrong?? I've never used a false bottom before and have a hell of a time putting it together each time, but it looks good when I get it all ready. I end up with a ton of grain below the FB after the mash as well. I'm scared to use it again and have thought about switching to the stainless braid. But I have read so many good reviews it must be something that I'm doing wrong?

As you know I try and get the diptubes to set about 1/2" above the bottom of the kettle so it cant get mashed down and stop the flow. But I am working with the measurements you guys give me.... I do know its a pain to get the second measurement accurate and there are other factors involved. If the hole is drilled in a spot that the ball valve is not sitting straight etc etc etc. I would be willing to bet your diptube is getting stuck on the bottom of the kettle. If you have a way to cut the bottom of the diptube off about another 1/4" or even at an angle your problems will probably go away. If you dont have a way to do that let me know I can shoot you out another one cut a bit closer to what you need. Ill just need to get a measurement off that one you have. PM me if need anything or you cant get this one going ...
Cheers
Jay

 

[dburgette]

As you know I try and get the diptubes to set about 1/2" above the bottom of the kettle so it cant get mashed down and stop the flow. But I am working with the measurements you guys give me.... I do know its a pain to get the second measurement accurate and there are other factors involved. If the hole is drilled in a spot that the ball valve is not sitting straight etc etc etc. I would be willing to bet your diptube is getting stuck on the bottom of the kettle. If you have a way to cut the bottom of the diptube off about another 1/4" or even at an angle your problems will probably go away. If you dont have a way to do that let me know I can shoot you out another one cut a bit closer to what you need. Ill just need to get a measurement off that one you have. PM me if need anything or you cant get this one going ...
Cheers
Jay

The one solution to that whole issue is to use a bottom draining mash tun. No worries.

 

[Jaybird]

So can I ask questions on this thread about my falsebottom?

I met Jaybird in person like 2 months ago on the day he happened to be moving his shop. Unfortunately he had already packed and moved the parts I was looking for (stainless fittings) so he told me to let him know when I ordered online and he'd cut me a break on shipping. As promised he did just that. I also orderd a FB at that time, and worked with another guy (I forgot his name, but he was awesome!) when placing that order. I now have the FB, and have done 3 brews with it.

My question also has to do with Vorlaufing. I'm having a hell of a time, if not an impossible time trying to get the wort to run clear. I have to drain nearly the whole batch (batch sparging in a 10g cooler) to get what seems like a half/assed bed set.

My first batch I was making a pliney clone and it called for mash hopping, so I figured it might have been the leafhops I used. But my next mash was the same problem, and it was a 1.105 dark belgian. It's hard to expect that one to get clear so I vorlaufed half the mash before carefully re-adding it and draining, and didn't worry about it. TBH, I have no idea how that beer will turn out since it's still fermenting. It smelled great in fermentation though...I used the belgian blend from WL.

My most recent batch was a pale, and I had the same issue with vorlauf/bedsetting.

I get my grain pre-milled from morebeer, so I'm assuming that it's not the crush. Any help?? Do I need to use rice hulls (or whatever it is I read about from time to time..sorry I'm new to AG) or do something different? Everything I keep hearing tells me that 1 or 2 quarts should have my wort running very clear, but that's just not what's happening. I'm either getting somewhat clear-ER wort after a couple gallons, or just settling for cloudy wort, but it's not what I think I should be getting.

Thanks, and sorry to crash the thread..but it is indeed a testimonial, and I love the false bottom, perfect fit, and service was outstanding!

No need to be sorry man, not at all! let me ponder this for a bit. I am on my way to the brew club meeting and I will hit the rest of this thread later tonight....
Cheers
Jay

 

[passedpawn]

I got my FB a few weeks ago and have done 2 batches with it so far. I have been having a lot of problems with a stuck mash. I'm using a 15" hinged and the diptube sits about 1/4" off the bottom of my keg. My first batch had a few problems and I had to blow back through the tube connected to my pump to unstick the mash. For my second batch I made sure all the connections were perfect and fit super tight. But like an idiot, brewed a dunkleweisen for an upcoming competition, it got totally stuck and even by blowing back into the mash could not get it to flow. I had to dump my mash into my old cooler mash tun to finish it out.

What am I doing wrong?? I've never used a false bottom before and have a hell of a time putting it together each time, but it looks good when I get it all ready. I end up with a ton of grain below the FB after the mash as well. I'm scared to use it again and have thought about switching to the stainless braid. But I have read so many good reviews it must be something that I'm doing wrong?

Please see this:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f41/jaybirds-stainless-false-bottoms-146056/index32.html#post3773969

 

[jbaysurfer]

No need to be sorry man, not at all! let me ponder this for a bit. I am on my way to the brew club meeting and I will hit the rest of this thread later tonight....
Cheers
Jay

Right on Jay. Thanks, and thanks for recommending the brewpub DT that had racer X on draft!!!

 

[Jaybird]

Right on Jay. Thanks, and thanks for recommending the brewpub DT that had racer X on draft!!!

Ohhh Yeah I love that place! Always great beers and the service IMHO is second to none.

Okay I have thoughts about your issue a bit and I have a few questions that I will post here so we can all be part of the learning process.

1. What is your average water/grain ratio?
I have found the looser the wort the faster it clears.

2. How fast are you draining your first running?
Seems that some people are afraid to really let it rip. On my system I run wide open (1/2" full port stainless ball valve from Nor*Cal Brewing Solutions for $12.99 ) for about 2-3 min recirculating the entire time.

3 What temp is your mash when you start draining?
doing a mash out and raising the temp will help. My system is automated so I can recirculate for as long as I want with a push of a button. That said I don't do a mash out myself but raising the bed temp to 165-170 will help.

4. Are you doing a iodine test for full conversion?
a lot of what can make our wort cloudy is the lack of conversion. Having the proper amount of enzymes to do a full conversion and the proper time is essential.


Cheers
Jay

 

[jbaysurfer]

Ohhh Yeah I love that place! Always great beers and the service IMHO is second to none.

Okay I have thoughts about your issue a bit and I have a few questions that I will post here so we can all be part of the learning process.

1. What is your average water/grain ratio?
I have found the looser the wort the faster it clears.

2. How fast are you draining your first running?
Seems that some people are afraid to really let it rip. On my system I run wide open (1/2" full port stainless ball valve from Nor*Cal Brewing Solutions for $12.99 ) for about 2-3 min recirculating the entire time.

3 What temp is your mash when you start draining?
doing a mash out and raising the temp will help. My system is automated so I can recirculate for as long as I want with a push of a button. That said I don't do a mash out myself but raising the bed temp to 165-170 will help.

4. Are you doing a iodine test for full conversion?
a lot of what can make our wort cloudy is the lack of conversion. Having the proper amount of enzymes to do a full conversion and the proper time is essential.


Cheers
Jay

Ok,

So you have to keep in mind I only have 3 brews under my belt using this, but I'll try to answer all the questions best I can:

1)Keep in mind the smallest of the 3 brews I've done with the FB is considered borderline between a pale and an IPA.

My water volumes were all determined by beersmith.

Imperial IPA: 1.45
Belgian Dark Strong: 1.27
IPA: 1.5

I had to pull the numbers off Beersmith and do the math by hand, I couldn't find a grain to water ratio box in the software, but seems like it should be there.

2)I did fail to open it all the way the first brew. The second brew was the Belgian, 1.105 OG, and it's so dark it's hard to say categorically it didn't go better, because I DID open the valve all the way, but I had completely drained the TUN before I felt it was improving at all. This I can see easily being fixed with a pump. I do have a 1/2" valve on the tun. But 2-3 minutes wide open is a large portion of the mash contents. Maybe the idea of getting clear runnings after a couple quarts is a pipedream? My 3rd brew was the best of all, but it still never cleared completely and I did have the valve wide open.

3) In all but the first brew, the temp was mashout temp 168ish. I did have the most trouble with the first brew coincidentally, and I didn't mash out on that brew.

4) I have not done an iodine test as the preboil gravity on all three brews was about where it should have been after the alloted time according to beersmith. The worst efficiency I had, and cloudiest wort was (again) the first brew (the IIPA). So it's possible I didn't complete conversion on that one, and I just boiled off to get the finishing gravity I was looking for.

IIPA: Estimated Preboil Gravity: 1.056; actual PBG: 1.048
The Belgian came out more efficient then I planned for on the software, and the IPA came out spot on the estimated PBG.

Maybe I'm wrong, but with the exception of the first brew I figured if I was hitting my PBG estimates I was getting conversion?

Thanks, and maybe I'm doing something totally newbish that created all this, or maybe I'm expecting a wort clarity that's not realistic. If so, just point it out and I'll gladly learn from it!

 

[dburgette]

Ok,

I had to pull the numbers off Beersmith and do the math by hand, I couldn't find a grain to water ratio box in the software, but seems like it should be there.

Click on Mash Details > Double Click on Whatever you named your mash ("Mash In" I believe is the default)

You should see what Beersmith assigned your water/grain ratios.