I've heard a lot abou Auber's EZBoil, but what about Bräu SV240 EZboil?

[Edelhauser]

Bräu SV240 EZboil - 240V Electric Brewery Controller for $410
http://brausupply.com/products/unibrau-controller-240v

Similar to Auber's EZboil tabletop http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=533

Looks like it's capable of slightly higher (4800:5500) wattage and pump control, but a bit more expensive. I'm hoping to put in a 240V system for 12G brews. Thoughts on the unit from Bräu?

 

[ferm.adventures]

Few months back, I got the Brau SV240. Different pid, with a master on/off switch, and an alarm switch. Used it a few times and it works great.

That one was $500. I'm happy with it, as it fits my needs perfectly. Looks like I'd be pretty happy with this version too, but would prefer a master power switch. I wish I had this one since I don't use the pid alarms and have no plans on using them, and this one has a better pid and is cheaper.

The Auber is a no go for me. The pump control on the panel is awesome, and a necessity for me.

 

[quaboagbrewing]

I've been looking at the Bräu SV240 EZboil as well. Seems perfect for my 15 gallon BIAB. I was looking at the BrewBoss controller but just can't justify the additional cost $665. Also curious why they ditched the master power switch on the new one. Not a deal breaker but I'd prefer having that master switch.

 

[jmrybak]

I actually just recieved the BrauSupply 120v EZBoil with the DSPR300 and an additonal alarm buzzer wired to the relay. Ill post pictures and my thoughts when I get a chance to try it out.

 

[jmrybak]

 

[Edelhauser]

How'd it work out? Any concerns or surprises?

 

[jmrybak]

How'd it work out? Any concerns or surprises?

I have done a couple water only trials. Thus far:

I can get the relay 1 associated alarm to activate the buzzer but only in process mode. No luck in deviation mode. Trying to tweak the settings.

The alrarm switch appears to do nothing. Doesn't kill an active alarm, and doesn't prevent an alarm from going off. I'm not sure how or if it is wired.

Relay 2: does not trigger the buzzer, which kind of sucks, because this is the relay that can be set to activate based on brew timers. This is the case even when the relay is set to default open position.

That being said at least the controller gets to the set temperature (6 gallons from tap to 162 in 38 minutes with recirculation), and holds it there pretty well. The pump control switch works.

Hopefully the folks at BrauSupply can help me figure out how to get relay 2 and the alarm switch working. As of now I wouldn't recommend "adding" these features. Base unit works as it should.

 

[augiedoggy]

Bräu SV240 EZboil - 240V Electric Brewery Controller for $410
http://brausupply.com/products/unibrau-controller-240v

Similar to Auber's EZboil tabletop http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=533

Looks like it's capable of slightly higher (4800:5500) wattage and pump control, but a bit more expensive. I'm hoping to put in a 240V system for 12G brews. Thoughts on the unit from Bräu?

Since you asked... You could build that exact box for under $200 and since it took less than an hr to make I dont see the value in paying $410 plus shipping but thats just me. Im sure its built well but its steeply priced for what it does. And no you dont need any special skills to assemble one. It very odd that auber doesnt sell one to control the most common 5500w elements ? This has me wondering why.

 

[Edelhauser]

Since you asked... You could build that exact box for under $200 and since it took less than an hr to make I dont see the value in paying $410 plus shipping but thats just me. Im sure its built well but its steeply priced for what it does. And no you dont need any special skills to assemble one. It very odd that auber doesnt sell one to control the most common 5500w elements ? This has me wondering why.

Do you have a schematic/BOM/picture(s) of the build? I'm a mechanical engineer with modest electrical experience, but I can read a schematic (more or less) and screw down wires to a terminal block
Any help would be appreciated. Also, I have access to a (free) laser cutter at work. I believe it's only rated for thin wood/plastic.

 

[augiedoggy]

Do you have a schematic/BOM/picture(s) of the build? I'm a mechanical engineer with modest electrical experience, but I can read a schematic (more or less) and screw down wires to a terminal block
Any help would be appreciated. Also, I have access to a (free) laser cutter at work. I believe it's only rated for thin wood/plastic.

I can draw up a basic wiring diagram.. the pump is pretty self explanatory since its just a 120b switched outlet. The ssr and Auber unit are a little more involved but still easy enough. I have one of these ezboil controllers on order myself to replace one of the pids in my control panel.
The home depot and Lowe's has plastic electric enclosures in a few different sizes. I used one of them with a drill and dremel for my build.
I'm touring the Utica club brewery and camping this weekend but I'll post links to all the components needed to build one of these when I get back if you want.

 

[swimIan]

I have done a couple water only trials. Thus far:



I can get the relay 1 associated alarm to activate the buzzer but only in process mode. No luck in deviation mode. Trying to tweak the settings.



The alrarm switch appears to do nothing. Doesn't kill an active alarm, and doesn't prevent an alarm from going off. I'm not sure how or if it is wired.



Relay 2: does not trigger the buzzer, which kind of sucks, because this is the relay that can be set to activate based on brew timers. This is the case even when the relay is set to default open position.



That being said at least the controller gets to the set temperature (6 gallons from tap to 162 in 38 minutes with recirculation), and holds it there pretty well. The pump control switch works.



Hopefully the folks at BrauSupply can help me figure out how to get relay 2 and the alarm switch working. As of now I wouldn't recommend "adding" these features. Base unit works as it should.

Any updates after talking with Brausupply!

 

[applescrap]

Honestly looking back, imo, I would just get a simple on off switch with breaker and a potentiometer. Simple, small, no temp probe, extra cords, nada. I bet you could build something like that for fifty bucks. I don't recirculate and don't see that happening in my future. Just a simple way to control the element. My 2 cents. I would imagine with a pump and a handheld digital thermometer one could figure out where to set the potentiometer at to keep an even Mash temp anyways if desired. No ssr needed.

 

[jmrybak]

Any updates after talking with Brausupply!

Steven from BrauSupply reviewed the wiring diagram and discovered an adjustment that needs to be made. This was in a way an one-off or prototype, and there are a few differences between the DSPR120 and 300.

Steven has sent me some pre- stripped wire along with a diagram to get both relays operational and on the kill switch. He also is tossing in a Ss keg hop filter for the trouble.

I'll take some pics and report back when the wire gets here from America's hat.

 

[augiedoggy]

Steven from BrauSupply reviewed the wiring diagram and discovered an adjustment that needs to be made. This was in a way an one-off or prototype, and there are a few differences between the DSPR120 and 300.
Yu
Steven has sent me some pre- stripped wire along with a diagram to get both relays operational and on the kill switch. He also is tossing in a Ss keg hop filter for the trouble.

I'll take some pics and report back when the wire gets here from America's hat.

The dspr120 and 300 have many functionality differences I purchased mine to have the relay trigger a secondary timer that counts down my hop addition times.

 

[jmrybak]

The dspr120 and 300 have many functionality differences I purchased mine to have the relay trigger a secondary timer that counts down my hop addition times.

yeah, the 2 relays also have a specific alarm function tied to each. Relay 2 can be set to trigger with the built in timers for example.

I don't need anything too fancy though so with a few quick wire swaps I should be able to get both relays firing towards the one buzzer and with the rotary switch to control them (although the A and B buttons on the DSPR300 make silencing a relay associated alarm fairly easy already).

I like your secondary timer function idea!

I wish the DSPR300 was set up so that I can set a strike water temp, trigger my buzzer, then after the temp drops from adding the grains start the timer for my mash. Right now i think once I cross the mash temp the timer will need to be manually reset (which isnt too hard anyway).

 

[stamandster]

Honestly looking back, imo, I would just get a simple on off switch with breaker and a potentiometer. Simple, small, no temp probe, extra cords, nada. I bet you could build something like that for fifty bucks. I don't recirculate and don't see that happening in my future. Just a simple way to control the element. My 2 cents. I would imagine with a pump and a handheld digital thermometer one could figure out where to set the potentiometer at to keep an even Mash temp anyways if desired. No ssr needed.

Dude ... Don't you have your own thread about this? Lol

 

[applescrap]

Dude ... Don't you have your own thread about this? Lol

Yes, this post was partly the inspiration. I started the thread figuring it was time to consider those options. Edelhauser is looking at spending upwards of $400 for something I own and I'm certain a $75 job would have been my best option. Figured I was being a good Community member/friend, by at least passing this option off to him. Then starting a thread for everybody else who might be able to benefit, as they consider this process, which I spent months considering and researching. Obviously the discussion on the other page is off topic to this thread, as is your post.

 

[stamandster]

Yes, this post was partly the inspiration. I started the thread figuring it was time to consider those options. Edelhauser is looking at spending upwards of $400 for something I own and I'm certain a $75 job would have been my best option. Figured I was being a good Community member/friend, by at least passing this option off to him. Then starting a thread for everybody else who might be able to benefit, as they consider this process, which I spent months considering and researching. Obviously the discussion on the other page is off topic to this thread, as is your post.

Understood Both our posts are OT. No one asked what he was trying to accomplish. Meaning we can't exactly tell him $75 worth of parts will do exactly the same thing. Who's to say he hasn't also researched "months worth of information"? I just find it slightly humorous your stuck so much on your potentiometer idea. I would not consider it an equal substitute for either of those he's thinking about... Also, don't act so much like a victim ;-)

W that said a lot of what Brau gives is just a prepackage of what auber sells at an increased cost. If the OP is at all handy he could build it for less.

 

[jeffmeh]

So for the standard Brau SV240 EZBoil, does the "element off" switch cut power to the DSPR controller also, or is the controller always powered on if the box is plugged in?

 

[stamandster]

Since you asked... You could build that exact box for under $200 and since it took less than an hr to make I dont see the value in paying $410 plus shipping but thats just me. Im sure its built well but its steeply priced for what it does. And no you dont need any special skills to assemble one. It very odd that auber doesnt sell one to control the most common 5500w elements ? This has me wondering why.

It doesn't have the correct components to allow over 20a which limits it to 4800w (which nay actually be too high) and those C20/19 connectors, relay types and the box size don't help.

 

[jmrybak]

So for the standard Brau SV240 EZBoil, does the "element off" switch cut power to the DSPR controller also, or is the controller always powered on if the box is plugged in?

my understanding is the kill switch on the 240v EZBoil only interrupts the power supply to the element

 

[jeffmeh]

my understanding is the kill switch on the 240v EZBoil only interrupts the power supply to the element

That would be my preference, so one could still read temperature when the element is turned off. Thanks.

 

[jmrybak]

Any updates after talking with Brausupply!

So the package from BrauSupply arrived from America's hat today. Enclosed was a free hop filter carrying a couple pre stripped wires.




So I opened up my EZBoil DRPR300 120v controller per Steven's directions and set to modify the alarm buzzer wiring per the instructions.





So I set to modify the buzzer and alarm switch wiring from this:



To this:



So a few minutes later and after a lot of double checking. Some wires had moved around and I had the controller closed back up.







And now the buzzer can be set off by both relay 1 and relay 2, including the timer function which is specific to relay 2. Additionally, the buzzer when triggered by either relay can be killed with the rotary switch. Job done.

I also switched out the element power out receptacle originally supplied (L5-25R) with the replacement receptacle BrauSupply sent me per the original custom order (L6-30R).

In the end, I got the functionality I was looking for, including a couple custom features, and the unit seems to function well. It just took a little bit of of a run around and some modifications on my part.

 

[swimIan]

What do you plan do use both relays for?

 

[applescrap]

Looks awesome. Happy brewing.

 

[jmrybak]

What do you plan do use both relays for?

Both relays will be set to the alarm function and the buzzer. But using both allows me to have multiple alarms set including the mash timer and temperature deviation alarms. The timer alarm is specific is to relay 2 as well.

 

[quaboagbrewing]

Interesting.......seeing the pictures of that opened up may have convinced me to build this on my own. Seems like a pretty basic wiring job. Probably save a few $$$ in the process as well. Heck.....my oldest daughter is taking robotics this year so this could be a good learning project for her as well.

 

[augiedoggy]

Understood Both our posts are OT. No one asked what he was trying to accomplish. Meaning we can't exactly tell him $75 worth of parts will do exactly the same thing. Who's to say he hasn't also researched "months worth of information"? I just find it slightly humorous your stuck so much on your potentiometer idea. I would not consider it an equal substitute for either of those he's thinking about... Also, don't act so much like a victim ;-)

W that said a lot of what Brau gives is just a prepackage of what auber sells at an increased cost. If the OP is at all handy he could build it for less.

But honsetly for about $75 worth of parts not including the box or actual nema connectors would do exactly the same thing... inside the box all you have is the ssr ($11 with heatsink) the regular on /off switch ($4) a 3 pin aviation connector ($1.50) for the rtd temp prob for the pump and the ezboil controller ($46-60)... the brau unit use the triclamp temp prob which is nice but not needed for everyone... I recommend instead an rtd that has the disconnect at the kettle end. that way theres no need to remove it... I use these and they work well , the pvc cable shielding is better than the stainless stuff which kinks and catches on everything. http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-PT100-T...959914?hash=item3ab3ff5b6a:g:IMUAAOSwvU5XMyMH

Honestly you would be looking at like $150 with the correct cables outlets and plugs and a proper safe enclosure. This is for someone who is looking to make every dollar count... If you dont have the couple hours to spare to gather then parts and assemble then great but then you will also likely be relying on someone else if the ssr of controller develop and issue since you will know very little about the tools your using to brew. This configuration is about as simple to wire up as the potentiometer and ssvr mentioned earlier... You just have 3 extra wires for the temp sensor to connect. theres not much to it .. I still havent had enough free time to draw something up to show how simple the wiring is but its the same as a single pid controller like the ones jaggerbush sold complete until he recently passed away for half of this units asking price.

 

[Jwin]

But honsetly for about $75 worth of parts not including the box or actual nema connectors would do exactly the same thing... inside the box all you have is the ssr ($11 with heatsink) the regular on /off switch ($4) a 3 pin aviation connector ($1.50) for the rtd temp prob for the pump and the ezboil controller ($46-60)... the brau unit use the triclamp temp prob which is nice but not needed for everyone... I recommend instead an rtd that has the disconnect at the kettle end. that way theres no need to remove it... I use these and they work well , the pvc cable shielding is better than the stainless stuff which kinks and catches on everything. http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-PT100-T...959914?hash=item3ab3ff5b6a:g:IMUAAOSwvU5XMyMH

Honestly you would be looking at like $150 with the correct cables outlets and plugs and a proper safe enclosure. This is for someone who is looking to make every dollar count... If you dont have the couple hours to spare to gather then parts and assemble then great but then you will also likely be relying on someone else if the ssr of controller develop and issue since you will know very little about the tools your using to brew. This configuration is about as simple to wire up as the potentiometer and ssvr mentioned earlier... You just have 3 extra wires for the temp sensor to connect. theres not much to it .. I still havent had enough free time to draw something up to show how simple the wiring is but its the same as a single pid controller like the ones jaggerbush sold complete until he recently passed away for half of this units asking price.

Except jaggerbush is closed
http://jaggerbushbrewing.com/PID-CONTROLLER-220-VOLT-6000-WATT-30-AMP_p_21.html
Sadly, passed away.

 

[stamandster]

But honsetly for about $75 ...
Honestly you would be looking at like $150 ...

So which is it? $75 and completely hard wired, no GFCI, no connector, or $150 and safer?