The guy in the video he said he forgot Whirfloc tablet, is that just for his recipe? And oh my goodness. I need to get a list and price everything to step up..
I think im going to buy the stuff to get what joe from the video has, and brew that way! I looks super easy and more fun than what I'm doing right now! And I'll be buying a immersion chiller soon
Ok you guys are twisting my arm!
So far my equipment list is the following
5 gal pot
Grain bag for speciality grains
Boil proof spoon
And the miscellaneous ones, hydrometer, thief, racking tubes ect.
To go to AG I need a bigger pot, i also heard that turkey friers work wonder for temp control, is this true? the voile bag, lauter tun & mash tun(?) do I need a CFC or something of the sort to chill rapidly?
Because I let it do it's thing in the bath tub with water and that takes for ever.. I did recently get a carboy though I think that was an upgrade![]()
LuiInIdaho said:When I was first considering moving to all grain, I found some videos on You Tube that took you quickly through the mashing process. There are several excellent videos there! My reaction to watching some of them was "Is that all that is involved?" I would recommend that you check it out, if you haven't done so already. You might even look particularly at BIAB mashing. This might give you some ideas on how to step into all grain without spending a fortune.
I hope that this helps! Mark![]()
neosapien said:Here, check this thread. Reading it is what gave me the guts to think maybe I could pull this off.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-stovetop-all-grain-brewing-pics-90132/
Piratwolf said:Two quick additions:
1). Some BIAB folks are really excited to get you to go that way--you can make good beer either way, but it seems the cooler mash tun suits you so why force BIAB?
2) Craigslist![]()
Trust us. The one common thing I always hear from people who went AG is how much easier it really was than they thought it was going to be. If you've done extract batches, then you have most of the process down. The ONLY things different are mashing, which is mostly knowing how much water to put in your grain and what temperature. Lots of people here can give you those numbers and show you how to get them yourself.
The rest of the process is exactly the same. Get temp down ASAP, oxygenate, pitch correct amount of healthy yeast and control the fermentation temps.
The mashing part is actually pretty easy. I would suggest having a bag of extract on hand just in case you miss your OG wildly though. It's better to have that to fall back on than make something that is not close to what you wanted.
Handsaw said:I'm interested in what you say about getting the temp down ASAP. I have been doing no chill for the last 3 batches because 1) I don't have an imersion chiller and 2) I got a new boil pot which won't fit in my sink for the ice bath method. Unfortunately, I can't tell you with certainty that it works flawlessly because the last two batches are still too young to judge. The first batch however turned out fine. So - except for the reduced time for infection, why do you recommend getting the temp down asap?
So - except for the reduced time for infection, why do you recommend getting the temp down asap?
You could try a counter flow chiller? I'm not sure how well those work or really how they work, but ive heard of them
pentachris said:A counter flow chiller is more expensive than an immersion chiller. It's basically a long copper tube inside of a garden hose. The wort flows through the copper tube in one direction, while cool/cold water flows through the garden hose, outside of the copper tube, in the other direction. The water draws heat off of the copper, which is drawing it off of the wort.
ahaley said:It's more expensive than an immersion chiller that has like 25-50' of copper tube?
LuiInIdaho said:Because the counter flow chiller also has 25-50' of copper. It also has additional parts and is harder to put together than an immersion chiller.
Oh ok, is there a big different for which works best?
Homercidal said:Yes and no. I've only ever used a CFC. I built it. It works "great".
Cons: More work to put together (or more fun..)
Only chills the portion of the wort that passes through. What hasn't gone through is still HOT.
Can't easily know if the inside is clean.
Pros: Chills somewhat more efficiently. If I choke the flow I can cool the batch in about 15 minutes in the summer. Normally in the winter I run it wide open, so maybe 10 minutes.
If I had to do it again I'd build a IC. The ability to see that it's "clean" is a huge bonus for me. The difference in performance is not enough to make it a clear cut winner. Shure you can chill 10 minutes faster, but really, does that 10 minutes make your beer noticeably better tasting? There is the question of how fast do you HAVE to chill your beer? There is no answer. Lots of people chill in 30-45 minutes and make great beer.
I actually thought about *downgrading* to an IC, but then I realized that with my pump I could recirculate the chilled wort back in and chill the whole batch at once. And i also realized that I could sanitize the chiller by recirculating for a while before I start the water flow to the chiller.
At this time I'm thinking about upgrading to a Duda Desiel Plate chiller and selling my CFC. The plate chiller has all the advatages of the CF, but is even more efficient, and can be baked to STERILIZE it between batches if I want to.
Bottom line: Any and all will work well enough. IC is a winner for people looking to save a few $$ and still have a great chiller.
You have nothing to fear but the fear itself!
I went AG about 10-15 batches ago & I swear it's even easier then extract/partial. Less clean up, somehow..., total control, pride in "designing" brews, no more stovetop (def get a campchef outdoor propane burner, you won't believe the difference in heating time!), no more crap piling up in the kitchen. I've done a couple extract brews since, and I wonder why. PITA!! I boil over EVERY TIME i use extract on my stove. Go for the AG! You won't regret it. Just my £2. Brew On!