Issues with slow end of frementation with BIAB method

[IslandLizard]

If you have an extra $150 to throw at it, get a Tilt hydrometer [...]

A different view:
Yeast does it own thing, it will finish where it does, not much you can change about it. The Tilt is not going to improve that or your beer, it's just a gadget. Instead, if you have that kind of money to spend, maybe put your $150 toward a better fermenter so you can keep oxygen out, and do closed transfers.

 

[Zteelblade]

Ok thank you all, I guess I'll get another type of bag then. Too bad I just ordered 2nd such bag, since my first one already has been used for like 30-40patches
And probably at some point will get Tilt measurement tool too. And I will reduce the fineness of milling. Ill try to use the bucket next time with a tap. Only issue is that the tap hole is often covered with the turb and grain :/ But maybe it will work with the coarser grind.

Any recommendations on which bags are good for BIAB?

 

[Miraculix]

Ok thank you all, I guess I'll get another type of bag then. Too bad I just ordered 2nd such bag, since my first one already has been used for like 30-40patches
And probably at some point will get Tilt measurement tool too. And I will reduce the fineness of milling. Ill try to use the bucket next time with a tap. Only issue is that the tap hole is often covered with the turb and grain :/ But maybe it will work with the coarser grind.

Any recommendations on which bags are good for BIAB?

Never owned one myself but heard nothing but good stuff about the bags that @wilserbrewer makes!

 

[IslandLizard]

Any recommendations on which bags are good for BIAB?

Never owned one myself but heard nothing but good stuff about the bags that @wilserbrewer makes!

Wilser BIAB Bags. They're made for your kettle.
https://biabbags.webs.com/
You can contact him here on HBT, privately, by starting a "conversation" with him.

 

[Sunfire96]

Ok thank you all, I guess I'll get another type of bag then. Too bad I just ordered 2nd such bag, since my first one already has been used for like 30-40patches
And probably at some point will get Tilt measurement tool too. And I will reduce the fineness of milling. Ill try to use the bucket next time with a tap. Only issue is that the tap hole is often covered with the turb and grain :/ But maybe it will work with the coarser grind.

Any recommendations on which bags are good for BIAB?

You're doing 20 L batches? Too big for a paint strainer. I had a BrewBag that I liked a lot, but have heard great things about Wilser Bags

 

[Bobby_M]

Don't be so sure about your fermentation temperatures not being a factor. I think that's what it is. Fermentation needs to be kept cooler at first but then it's just as important to be sure it doesn't start cooling off towards the end as it slows the yeast down quite a bit. For a typical ale, it should be kept at about 18c internally or 16c ambient. After fermentation peaks and begins to wane, you'll want to keep the temps steady with heat (or less cooling) or even raise the temp up to 21-22c for the rest of its time in fermentation.

Kviek is another animal altogether and should be held at 30-35c.

 

[Zteelblade]

You're doing 20 L batches? Too big for a paint strainer. I had a BrewBag that I liked a lot, but have heard great things about Wilser Bags

Im doing 26-27l mostly,my kettle is 40l but fermenter with foam can take no more than that, even less if doing abbey ales etc...

 

[Zteelblade]

Kviek is another animal altogether and should be held at 30-35c.

I know but i was doing pseudo lager with lutra and it is recommended to hold it around 20-22c at start

 

[JJinMD]

I know but i was doing pseudo lager with lutra and it is recommended to hold it around 20-22c at start

And that is why it was fermenting longer than you expected. Kviek only runs fast when at higher temperature. Your fermentation time is typical for kviek at the temperature you were at.

 

[Bobby_M]

I know but i was doing pseudo lager with lutra and it is recommended to hold it around 20-22c at start

Ok that's fair, but my statement about pushing the temps after peak fermentation still stand. Vigorous fermentation makes a lot of heat. When it slows, it cools and yeast slow and/or crash out too early.

I just kegged a Marzen fermented initially at 50F (10c) for 5 days, then a ramp up to 60F (15c) for 3 days and then 65F (18c) for the final 7 days. Fermentation was visibly done (and gravity verified at 10 days for a 6% ABV). No fermentation character or off flavors.

 

[Miraculix]

I know but i was doing pseudo lager with lutra and it is recommended to hold it around 20-22c at start

Where did you read that? I think manufacturer info says steady temperature at around 35c from start to finish. At least this is what I remember and this is what I've been doing with good success.

 

[GoodTruble]

The yeast naturally slows down as most of the sugars are converted and the alcohol level rises. Fermentations definitely slow or stall when you start to reach the alcohol limit for your type of yeast. Once the yeast slows down after most of the fermentation is complete, it's usually okay to increase the temp a few degrees (F) to finish up (or give a good shake).

 

[soccerdad]

Another vote for the Wilser bag.

 

[TyYoda]

The larger mesh is letting grist particles in to the wort. The particles can adheare to the CO2 and you will see what looks like an Extended fermentation. I've dry hopped without a bag and have seen this happen to me. I thought the fermentation was going on for weeks. When I realized the sg wasn't changing I realized the continued airlock activity wasn't due due to fermentation. Now I just ferment for a week or two (typically 7 to 10 days) depending on my schedule and don't worry about it. Pretty sure you are over thinking it. Unless you are making a NEIPA, you are also woorying too much about the cold side oxidation. Potassium meta at packaging might help more for reducing cold side oxidation IMO.