Issue with leaky mash tun

[Squill2k4]

Sooo, I decided to start brewing with all grains. I converted an old cooler that I had into a mash tun and I'm having some issues with it leaking. is the tutorial I used on making the mash tun, but the problem with this is that my cooler has these 2 grooves on the side that are angled up from the spigot hole. So it causes my T pipe to be lifted up at an angle and cause alittle gap on the inside of my mash tun. I've attached some pictures that show the inside, as well as a crappy drawing of what the issue I'm running into is.

Now I've taken the big washer that was originally on the cooler itself and tried using it on both the inside and outside of the cooler. Both places it still leaks, but it seems to leak more with it on the outside. I've also added 1 extra washer on the outside and another washer on the inside. It still doesn't help. There is still a slight gap and I was wondering what can be done to close that gap off? I'd like to use a method that would allow me to take it apart (for cleaning) and not have to worry about any types of glues. Plus I just really don't want to have glue sitting in there with my mash.

Any advise would be great!

 

[Runyanka]

Did you reinstall the original rubber gromet that came with the cooler? That is intended to go over the tube penetrating the cooler wall.

 

[Squill2k4]

Yes I put it back on the inside of the cooler, but since the T pipe is not flush with the wall it causes the bottom of that washer to be loose.

Side Note: The additional washer that I was using is bigger than the pipe. It's like 3/4" and not 1/2". So I'm thinking if I get the right size that may help as well (to put in front of the gromet that came with the cooler).

 

[Ravenshead]

It looks like your "T" is interfering with the bottom of your cooler and causing a mis-alignment. You may have to change your design to clear the edges of that channel leading to the drain. For this cooler, a manifold design would probably work better thanks to that channel. You could also drill your own hole on the other side but I think building a manifold would be easier.

 

[beergynt]

Maybe if you install a 2-3" nipple between your vessel wall and the T, using a locknut to make the seal? Looks like there would be clearance for the T a little further away from the wall.

 

[DosGatosBrewing]

On mine, I used the original grommet at the cooler opening, and rubber and stainless washers ( both) on inside and out.

Getting the right sizes are key to getting it right. I had a couple of misfires, myself.

 

[beergynt]

Or you could try re-orienting the T fitting... Something like this?

 

[Squill2k4]

Or you could try re-orienting the T fitting... Something like this?

This actually looks like it may work. I'll give that a shot when I get home. Thanks!

 

[Bobby_M]

This actually looks like it may work. I'll give that a shot when I get home. Thanks!

Why are you using such a long braid? The loop isn't reallly worth the trouble. Run a single piece straight off the bulkhead down the center about 12"

 

[Squill2k4]

Why are you using such a long braid? The loop isn't reallly worth the trouble. Run a single piece straight off the bulkhead down the center about 12"

Not really sure. I just watched the video and did what it said, since this is my first time with all grain. Will it make a difference? Beside it just being a pain in the ass right now.

 

[Bobby_M]

All that braid squirming around in there is just going to get hung up when you try to stir the mash. You were planning to batch sparge right? You can get away with a 12" straight piece hung directly off the bulkhead.