Is my beer fermenting?

[DrunkenCanuck]

Hey guys, last Sunday I started my second beer, a Belgian Tripel but I am unsure of whether my yeast has gone dormant. My temperatures have been consistent, monitoring the air temperature to ensure it doesn't get too warm or cold. Optimum fermentation for Bastogne yeast by White Labs is 66-72 F but I am not getting much bubbling on my air lock. I mean, internally it looks like the beer is fermenting inside the bucket, but the bubbles don't show me that it has done a whole lot. Popped the air lock off to take a picture, I am sure you long time brewers would be able to tell if it's fermenting correctly or not visually.

 

[Sadu]

That definitely looks like it's fermenting to me.

You don't say how long it's been but it could be just getting started or mostly done.

Take a gravity sample if you are concerned or if it's been 2+ weeks but I think you are ok here.

 

[day_trippr]

Yup, there's definitely a bazillion bubbles in that matrix.

It's been (counts fingers) 5 full days since the pitch.
You may be looking at the tail of the dragon, activity wise...

Cheers!

 

[DrunkenCanuck]

Sounds good. I guess I should cold crash it some time this coming week and move it to secondary for aging?

 

[jmcquesten]

Sounds good. I guess I should cold crash it some time this coming week and move it to secondary for aging?

Nope. Let it sit in primary for 3 - 4 weeks total, then if gravity is stable, keg or bottle and let it age for a while.

 

[kh54s10]

No need to cold crash OR move to a secondary. At least wait until it is truly done fermenting. 2 gravity reading 36 hours or so apart that read the same. You can leave it in primary for 2-4 weeks then age in the bottles.

I also would not cold crash before doing a secondary. You will need yeast to carbonate the beer when bottling, if you cold crash, less yeast will get transferred, then age will allow more to die off. Then you might have bottle carbonation problems.

You say buckets and bubbling airlocks. Bubbling only means that gasses are being passed through the airlock. It will tell you that fermentation is likely if you have bubbles, but not reliably, especially with lack of bubbles. Different fermentations will create different amounts of gasses. Also buckets are notorious for making noobs anxious when the seal on the lid isn't tight and they don't get airlock bubbles then panic.

 

[DrunkenCanuck]

I have been getting some bubbles over the last 6 days, just wasn't sure if I was getting the temperatures right for a proper fermentation.

I was reading last night about transferring yeast to the bottles after doing a secondary, but I wanted to ensure that I am getting enough fermentation because most wet yeasts won't inoculate a 5 gallon batch of beer with just one packet, and no I didn't do a starter. Granted, this batch is about 4 gallons, so maybe it's fine.

 

[Lefou]

Also buckets are notorious for making noobs anxious when the seal on the lid isn't tight and they don't get airlock bubbles then panic.

This is the main reason I chose glass carboys and used the fermenting bucket from my original kit for sanitation.
You can see what's going on in a glass carboy and waste gases have only one small spot to escape. That, and it's easier to replace a bad stopper or airlock. I'd love having one stainless steel conical but can't justify the price or spare the space.

 

[kh54s10]

I have been getting some bubbles over the last 6 days, just wasn't sure if I was getting the temperatures right for a proper fermentation.

I was reading last night about transferring yeast to the bottles after doing a secondary, but I wanted to ensure that I am getting enough fermentation because most wet yeasts won't inoculate a 5 gallon batch of beer with just one packet, and no I didn't do a starter. Granted, this batch is about 4 gallons, so maybe it's fine.

For temperatures, find the recommended temperature on the pack or on the manufacturers website. I always ferment just below the midpoint of the ideal range. Keep the wort that temperature, not the air around the fermenter.

Not having enough yeast after secondary is only a concern with high alcohol beers or very long secondaries. This would be many months.

Again for most beers, doing a secondary is unnecessary and to some, me included, it is a step that risks oxidation or infection more than it helps with anything. Unless you are adding something that is not best added to the primary.

Liquid yeasts will ferment a beer without doing a starter. It is just that there are not enough cells to accomplish this at the start, so they spend their initial energy reproducing (and possibly adding off flavors) until there are enough cells to ferment, rather than fermenting the beer.

 

[DrunkenCanuck]

For temperatures, find the recommended temperature on the pack or on the manufacturers website. I always ferment just below the midpoint of the ideal range. Keep the wort that temperature, not the air around the fermenter.

Not having enough yeast after secondary is only a concern with high alcohol beers or very long secondaries. This would be many months.

Again for most beers, doing a secondary is unnecessary and to some, me included, it is a step that risks oxidation or infection more than it helps with anything. Unless you are adding something that is not best added to the primary.

Liquid yeasts will ferment a beer without doing a starter. It is just that there are not enough cells to accomplish this at the start, so they spend their initial energy reproducing (and possibly adding off flavors) until there are enough cells to ferment, rather than fermenting the beer.

Neato, some science really goes into beer making. Anyway, I am going to leave my beer fermenting for another couple of weeks. Since I am using a Belgian Tripel recipe, I'd assume I want to jar the yeast to use during bottling as a primer? I'd assume I have to use a racking cane to transfer my beer to a secondary so it can clear up?

 

[kh54s10]

Neato, some science really goes into beer making. Anyway, I am going to leave my beer fermenting for another couple of weeks. Since I am using a Belgian Tripel recipe, I'd assume I want to jar the yeast to use during bottling as a primer? I'd assume I have to use a racking cane to transfer my beer to a secondary so it can clear up?

No there is plenty of yeast in suspension. You do not have to save any for bottling.

You do need to add a priming sugar. Check an online priming calculator so that you use the right amount. Too much and you will over carbonate the beer, or worse create bottle bombs.

You also do not have to do a secondary unless you really want to, or are adding something that you don't want or can't fit in your primary fermenter.