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Is it ok to use LocTite Threadlocker on Co2 Ball Locks?

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cannman

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Is it ok to use LocTite Threadlocker on Co2 Ball Locks?

I'm not sure what's going on behind closed kegerator doors, but my co2 line came a bit loose where it screws onto the ball lock post. This caused me to lose much of my Co2 and will have to get it refilled this week...

I really tightened it good this time but I'm afraid it might come loose again so I was thinking:

Is LocTite ok to use with this application?
Is there a better way to connect to avoid this situation?

images
LOCT-24200_1.jpg
 
So I guess the secret is to really crank down on those suckers ay?

what about going to SS and barbs?
 
From all of the comments on this forum regarding difficulty removing post, I would not recommend locktite.
Also cannot understand how it could loosen while sitting by itself. Possible that you forgot to tighten fully.
Usually takes movement, vibration, something, unless you have a ghost.
Does the wife think you drink too much beer? LOL
 
Can't say as I'd recommend locktite (might make removing a royal pain) but teflon tape has worked fine for me. I just made sure not to put too many layers on it so as to make the connection TOO tight.
 
There's a hole in the middle of every swivel nut, so what does taping the threads accomplish?

The answer is "nothing beneficial".

I have dozens of tape-free swivel nuts in my three CO2 systems and none of them loosen with time. Just tighten with a wrench...

Cheers!
 
There's a hole in the middle of every swivel nut, so what does taping the threads accomplish?

We must be using different swivel nuts then as mine have no holes...
Unless I'm misunderstanding you and you mean the ones where the gas is supposed to flow through...
 
No nylon gasket is required between a swivel nut and that disconnect, as the latter has a gasket built in to its tip...

Cheers!

It could just be my imagination, but I have found that the nylon, being slicker than the hard plastic of the disconnect, allows for a more firm connection. It might even compress/displace a little. YMMV.
 
We must be using different swivel nuts then as mine have no holes...
Unless I'm misunderstanding you and you mean the ones where the gas is supposed to flow through...
The swivel nut comes in two pieces, nut and barb (with mating surface). Unless the flare mating surfaces are sealed against one another, there is no seal. The threads have no part in that seal accept to accomplish the tightening of it.
 
@raouliii I see what you're getting at; though in the case of the OP he isn't so much looking for something to seal so much as something to prevent the swivel nut from getting loose which the tape would do (and easier to clean up/remove than Loctite). I did it as I was trying to cover all my bases when I was tracking down a leak and just never bothered taking it off since it wasn't hurting anything and will help prevent anything from sticking together in the future (unlikely but I deal with enough seized parts on my truck; don't need it on my brewing gear as well).
 
All this talk now has me thinking outside the box. Perhaps what I need to do is electrical tape outside the nut to compensate for any accidental movement that may cause me to lose half a tank of co2... This might fix the issue at hand... Hmmmmn
 
All this talk now has me thinking outside the box. Perhaps what I need to do is electrical tape outside the nut to compensate for any accidental movement that may cause me to lose half a tank of co2... This might fix the issue at hand... Hmmmmn
I've never had a swivel nut loosen once it was wrench tightened. FWIW, I use the nylon washers on all of them, metal to metal AND metal to plastic sealing surfaces. Not sure what you believe electrical tape will achieve.
 
I've never had a swivel nut loosen once it was wrench tightened. FWIW, I use the nylon washers on all of them, metal to metal AND metal to plastic sealing surfaces. Not sure what you believe electrical tape will achieve.


Where can I find supplies to do this? Can you point them out Amazon? Thanks!
 
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