Is a 58 litre sanke too big for pressurized 10 gallon batches?

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naturebrew

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I want to move from glass carboys to fermenting under pressure in kegs and have found some 58 litre kegs for sale. My current batch capacity is only 10 gallons or 38 litres. Would there be any issues using a larger keg like the 58 litre, thats 20 litres of head space. My choice would be 50 litre but have not found any that size yet, I broke two glass carboys on the weekend so am eager to change to a more robust system and gain the advantages of pressurized fermentation. Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated.
 
About a year ago I switched from glass carboys to using 1/2 bbl (15 gal) Sanke kegs for primary fermentation, and I absolutely LOVE IT. I brew ~10 gallon batches, and usually end up with about 11 gallons +/- in the keg when I pitch the yeast.

I have not tried the "pressurized" fermentation method, so I can't speak to that topic. I use the Sanke keg fermentation kit from Brewer's Hardware, and it works great! After primary fermentation is complete, I hook up my CO2 hose to the off-gas port and use 2psi to "push" the beer from the keg to the secondary fermenter. No lifting the heavy keg, and no siphoning required. I have tried the same method using the cheap carboy caps stretched over the top of the keg with the same results.

At the start of my brew day, I place my Sanke fermenter (read: clean, empty Sanke keg with stem removed) on a burner with about a half gallon of water in the bottom, and boil for at least 15 minutes to sanitize with steam. After 15 minutes of boiling, I take the keg off the burner, dump any remaining water, and cover the opening with a sanitized piece of foil. By the time my wort is cooled and ready to drain into the fermenter, the keg is cool and ready to receive.

When fermentation is complete, I transfer the beer from the fermenter as described above, and then immediately clean and rinse the keg using my homemade keg cleaner. After the keg comes off the keg cleaner, I use a flashlight and a little mirror to confirm that there is no gunk hiding out inside the top of the keg. When the keg is clean, I slosh a little Starsan around inside, and then store with a stopper in the top. On brew day, the keg is clean, and should be sanitary, but I use the steam method just to be sure no nasties snuck in there during empty storage.

For me, this method was a major improvement over using my glass carboys. Easier to clean, easier to transfer, and no worries about breaking glass. Only thing better IMHO is a stainless conical, but I can't afford that bling!

-Eric
 
Hi Eric, I hear you on the conical, crazy pricey. Thks for the info, I hadn't thought about sterilizing the keg using the bruner, great idea, I will incorporate that into my process. I picked up 3 58L sankes last week. I stripped them down and cleaned using my home built keg washer, two of the kegs came out perfect, one has a small area on the bottom with trace amounts of a brown substance, not sure what it is, didn't come off when I tried scrubbing it, whatever it is, boiling will definitely take care of any bacteria.

I will do my first batch using a rubber bung and airlock and lift the keg onto my brew bench, once I source parts for my spunding valves and another co2 tank, will go the pressurized route.
 
Will do, my beer supply line is full at the moment so I have time to source the parts I need for spring brewing.
 
An update on my use of these kegs, very happy so far, just using a rubber bung and airlock setup, may go the spunding valve route at some point. I am happy with the head space as it allows me to have strong fermentation without the requirement for a blow off tube. I have brewed a wheat, a saison and an ale and then re-brewed on each yeast cake. The fermentations have been very active initially without any foam reaching the airlock so no blockages or blowouts. The only issue I have with these kegs is their weight with 11-12 gallons of beer in them, lifting them onto the bench is a bit of work, I may rig a lifting device at some point.
 

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