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Jeff20578

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I’ve just brewed this following recipe. The recipe didn’t call for any dry hop. Any thoughts on adding a dryhop? My concern is the lack of additions will lack the hoppyness I like.

10 lb pale
1.14 flaked oak
7.5oz Cara pils

.25 Columbus 60
1.5 mosaic 0
1.5 cascade 0

ferment 2 weeks
 

Sammy86

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I’ve just brewed this following recipe. The recipe didn’t call for any dry hop. Any thoughts on adding a dryhop? My concern is the lack of additions will lack the hoppyness I like.

10 lb pale
1.14 flaked oak
7.5oz Cara pils

.25 Columbus 60
1.5 mosaic 0
1.5 cascade 0

ferment 2 weeks
Nothing wrong with adding dry hops...remember its your beer do with it what you want.

What do you have on hand to dry hop with?
 
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Jeff20578

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Cascade 1oz
mosaic .25
Columbus 1oz
Amarillo .25
Simco .50
Centennial .50
Citra .50
 
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Jeff20578

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Yep 5 gallons. I have no attachment to them. What timeframe would you suggest for the dry hop, 7ish days?
 

couchsending

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2 days is great but if you get hop creep and crash the beer or transfer after 2 Days you’ll get diacetyl and all sorts of other fun things.

If you’re dry hopping sub 60 then yes 2 days is fine as you’ll most likely not get refermentation. Above 60 you should dry hop until the beer is negative for diacetyl and has stopped refermenting. I’ve had beers drop more than a degree plato and ferment for an additional 7 days even after soft crashing, removing yeast, and holding the temp at 63 due to hop creep.
 

day_trippr

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So....thinking back to your prior frequent recommendations pro soft crashing prior to dry hopping, where's your head at today wrt process and temperature if one wanted to dump a ton of pellets in the fermentor?

Cheers!
 

Miraculix

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Is hop creep an actual thing with pellets as well? Aren't the pellets heated a bit during the process, potentially destroying or at least limiting enzymatic activity?

I'm actually about to find out, going to bottle a lager tomorrow, dry hopped with Simcoe and Chinook for two days.
 

couchsending

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Is hop creep an actual thing with pellets as well? Aren't the pellets heated a bit during the process, potentially destroying or at least limiting enzymatic activity?

I'm actually about to find out, going to bottle a lager tomorrow, dry hopped with Simcoe and Chinook for two days.
Yup. It might not be quite as bad as leaf but very very few breweries are dry hopping with leaf these days.

Cryo seems to not be an issue when it comes to hop creep.
 

couchsending

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So....thinking back to your prior frequent recommendations pro soft crashing prior to dry hopping, where's your head at today wrt process and temperature if one wanted to dump a ton of pellets in the fermentor?

Cheers!
You referring to me? I generally will always soft crash, dump hops, and DH sub 60. However I’m always going back and revisiting past techniques and trying to apply knowledge or different recipe/process tweaks to the past techniques to try to understand more about each variable.

I’ve started doing some split batches now that I have a bigger system. I’ll split 12 gallons into 2 7g Conicals and either ferment them with different yeasts or use different dry hopping techniques or different pitch rates, O2 levels, etc.

Unless you have the ability to maintain head pressure and remove yeast not sure soft crashing is really worth it. I’d assume most people here are dry hopping in carboys/buckets and just have to throw the pellets in at elevated temps as they don’t have a way to maintain head pressure when cooling.
 

day_trippr

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Thanks for the reply (sorry - could have asked that in a less clumsy manner :))

I actually thought you were doing a soft-crash and yeast dump all along, which left me wondering how to adapt the overall method to carboys - decidedly undumpable. The head pressure is nbd, have had that covered for a couple of years - at least at ~0.4psi - for suckback, etc, but the yeast lurk at the bottom regardless.

So far the best results I've had is to soft-crash at 50°F for two days to drop most of the yeast, warm back up to 65°F to get just a wee bit of activity going, and dump the first round on that. That keeps the pellets from dropping straight to the bottom into the trub and staying there - largely intact (unnerving to me)...

Cheers!
 

couchsending

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Thanks for the reply (sorry - could have asked that in a less clumsy manner :))

I actually thought you were doing a soft-crash and yeast dump all along, which left me wondering how to adapt the overall method to carboys - decidedly undumpable. The head pressure is nbd, have had that covered for a couple of years - at least at ~0.4psi - for suckback, etc, but the yeast lurk at the bottom regardless.

So far the best results I've had is to soft-crash at 50°F for two days to drop most of the yeast, warm back up to 65°F to get just a wee bit of activity going, and dump the first round on that. That keeps the pellets from dropping straight to the bottom into the trub and staying there - largely intact (unnerving to me)...

Cheers!
sorry I meant soft crash and dump yeast then DH.. not soft crash and dump hops...

You can let the hops warm up and grind them up a bit. They generally don’t sink when you do that. Even if you soft crash to drop yeast but warm back up to 65 you will get hop creep.
 

day_trippr

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sorry I meant soft crash and dump yeast then DH.. not soft crash and dump hops...
hah! I read right through that like it was how you meant. If you hadn't just now pointed it out I'd have missed it entirely ;)

Ok, Is there a theory that hop creep can be stopped by temperature alone? Or just slowed enough to not become a problem...

Cheers!
 

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