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Inkbird itc-308? $35 gets you wired, 2 stage temp controller.

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VolDoc:

Measure your actual voltage and you may come up with something closer to 120.

I have no problem using this in exactly the same application (bigger freezer though) and love how easy it is to change set points and see at a glance how everyone is doing.

Tom
 
VolDoc:

Measure your actual voltage and you may come up with something closer to 120.

I have no problem using this in exactly the same application (bigger freezer though) and love how easy it is to change set points and see at a glance how everyone is doing.

Tom

So your not worried about overloading the voltage on the 308 with your freezer and the heating element? I thought the 308 was only rated to 110 volts? Wouldn't a 115 V freezer plus a heating element cause some overload? Thanks for your help
 
So your not worried about overloading the voltage on the 308 with your freezer and the heating element? I thought the 308 was only rated to 110 volts? Wouldn't a 115 V freezer plus a heating element cause some overload? Thanks for your help

For the purposes of ratings on electrical equipment 110V, 115V & 120V are all the same.

But the ITC-308 outputs are actually rated for use up to 240V & 10A (http://www.ink-bird.com/product/detail/p/ITC-308_Outlet_Thermostat_Temperature_Controller/id/12, click on the "Specifications" tab about half way down the page.)

Brew on :mug:
 
So your not worried about overloading the voltage on the 308 with your freezer and the heating element? I thought the 308 was only rated to 110 volts? Wouldn't a 115 V freezer plus a heating element cause some overload? Thanks for your help


The voltage rating only refers to the insulation rating and the power supply for the control electronics.

I would be surprised if the design (cables and circuit spacing) was not safe for 240v. Many power supplies are also able to handle 240 as well.

So anything from 100-130 should be no problem.

Tom
 
So I am using my Inkbird on an extra Kegerator I have in order to use as a fermentation chamber. I am fermenting an IPA so I need to keep the temp in the mid-60s. Should I plug the fridge into the 'Cool' plug or the 'Heat' plug? How should I set the fridge? Set it at the coldest setting and let the temp controller work it?
 
So I am using my Inkbird on an extra Kegerator I have in order to use as a fermentation chamber. I am fermenting an IPA so I need to keep the temp in the mid-60s. Should I plug the fridge into the 'Cool' plug or the 'Heat' plug? How should I set the fridge? Set it at the coldest setting and let the temp controller work it?

Plug the fridge into the cool side. I'm fermenting right now as well. I have it set at 64 with a 1 degree variant. If it gets above 64.9 I believe it kicks on to keep it at 64
 
I would plug it in the cold plug and set for the coldest setting cause you don't want the fridge stat turning the fridge off before it cools to the temp you have your state set ( not that it would cause mid 60s is pretty warm)
 
New to this, and I know little to nothing about electrical work. Hoping someone can help prevent me from ruining my equipment or setting the house on fire.

I've got a 7.0 c.f. GE chest freezer: FCM7SHWW. Will the ITC-308 be okay with this plugged into cool and the Lasko MyHeat plugged into heat? Thank you!
 
New to this, and I know little to nothing about electrical work. Hoping someone can help prevent me from ruining my equipment or setting the house on fire.

I've got a 7.0 c.f. GE chest freezer: FCM7SHWW. Will the ITC-308 be okay with this plugged into cool and the Lasko MyHeat plugged into heat? Thank you!
That's basically the same configuration that I (and I'm sure many others) use. No problems.

Brew on :mug:
 
The voltage rating only refers to the insulation rating and the power supply for the control electronics.

I would be surprised if the design (cables and circuit spacing) was not safe for 240v. Many power supplies are also able to handle 240 as well.

So anything from 100-130 should be no problem.

Tom

The voltage is wide from 100V TO 240V. It is safe within this voltage. Pls don't worry.
 
Just got one of these bad boys in the mail. Anyone else get theirs a little... beat up? The packaging and everything looked fine, but the unit's enclosure is a little scratched up. Not too bad, just a little aggravating since it's new and all.

Also, was the backwards wiring issue from early on completely resolved? I guess I can open this thing up and check later.
 
Just got one of these bad boys in the mail. Anyone else get theirs a little... beat up? The packaging and everything looked fine, but the unit's enclosure is a little scratched up. Not too bad, just a little aggravating since it's new and all.

Also, was the backwards wiring issue from early on completely resolved? I guess I can open this thing up and check later.

I brought the "backwards wiring" to light originally, and as far as I know it was resolved within a couple of weeks of initial release. I haven't seen any reports of incorrect wiring since then.

Brew on :mug:
 
All- Wondering if I can get some help here.

Back in April I purchased the ITC-308 from Amazon, as most project do, mine got delayed a little. Last night i finally got around to installing the controller on my keezer. I plugged in the unit and set it up with no issues, i then proceeded to plug in the fridge and my GFI popped immediately. I started to trouble shoot. The keezer turns on with no issues when plugged directly into the GFI so i know that is good. I tried plugging in each item separately (but same time) and the GFI pops. Now when i plug in just the 308 without the fridge plugged into it, it pops the GFI. I should mention the GFI is on a 20 amp main breaker. I contacted Inkbird last night, i think the translation software they are using is not translating correctly. They keep telling me i need a 10 amp breaker. I think the 308 might be messed up. Has anyone run into this? any ideas? Did i screw something up?

@inkbird can you help?
 
All- Wondering if I can get some help here.

Back in April I purchased the ITC-308 from Amazon, as most project do, mine got delayed a little. Last night i finally got around to installing the controller on my keezer. I plugged in the unit and set it up with no issues, i then proceeded to plug in the fridge and my GFI popped immediately. I started to trouble shoot. The keezer turns on with no issues when plugged directly into the GFI so i know that is good. I tried plugging in each item separately (but same time) and the GFI pops. Now when i plug in just the 308 without the fridge plugged into it, it pops the GFI. I should mention the GFI is on a 20 amp main breaker. I contacted Inkbird last night, i think the translation software they are using is not translating correctly. They keep telling me i need a 10 amp breaker. I think the 308 might be messed up. Has anyone run into this? any ideas? Did i screw something up?

@inkbird can you help?

Maybe you got one of the first units with mixed up wiring (switching)?
Check these posts:
#8: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=536763
#53: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=536763&page=6
 
All- Wondering if I can get some help here.

Back in April I purchased the ITC-308 from Amazon, as most project do, mine got delayed a little. Last night i finally got around to installing the controller on my keezer. I plugged in the unit and set it up with no issues, i then proceeded to plug in the fridge and my GFI popped immediately. I started to trouble shoot. The keezer turns on with no issues when plugged directly into the GFI so i know that is good. I tried plugging in each item separately (but same time) and the GFI pops. Now when i plug in just the 308 without the fridge plugged into it, it pops the GFI. I should mention the GFI is on a 20 amp main breaker. I contacted Inkbird last night, i think the translation software they are using is not translating correctly. They keep telling me i need a 10 amp breaker. I think the 308 might be messed up. Has anyone run into this? any ideas? Did i screw something up?

@inkbird can you help?

Maybe you got one of the first units with mixed up wiring (switching)?
Check these posts:
#8: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=536763
#53: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=536763&page=6

The ITC-308 will work fine on a 20A breaker, as that is what I have been using for almost a year.

The mis-wired units should not trip a GFCI as all of the current still goes thru hot and neutral. It's just that the on/off switching is done on the neutral wire, not on the hot wire as code requires. To trip a GFCI, some of the current has to be flowing somewhere other than in the hot and neutral wire (less than 6 mA stray current is all that is required to trip.)

So, it sounds like the unit is defective. Get back in touch with Ink-Bird and tell them the guy who pointed out their original wiring issue (and got them to correct it) thinks it's defective, and should be replaced. (PM me if they ask for my real name for verification.)

Brew on :mug:
 
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Question:

do I want the

1) Inkbird itc-308 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011296704/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

or the

2) Inkbird "pre wired dual stage" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E2UFGM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

These units seen very similar, and I'm not sure if one would work better to control the temperature in my 7cu ft chest freezer fermentation chamber. I may or may not be using a thermowell immersed within fermenting wort. As the heating component I planned on using this fermentation heating pad (was surprised no one mentioned this product in proceeding 33 pages of thread): https://www.williamsbrewing.com/BREWERS-EDGE-SPACE-HEATER-P518.aspx

What a great thread! Very detailed, feedback from the manufacturer, and I'm gonna save about $140 over the dual stage Ranco I was considering!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Question:

do I want the

1) Inkbird itc-308 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011296704/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

or the

2) Inkbird "pre wired dual stage" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E2UFGM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

These units seen very similar, and I'm not sure if one would work better to control the temperature in my 7cu ft chest freezer fermentation chamber. I may or may not be using a thermowell immersed within fermenting wort. As the heating component I planned on using this fermentation heating pad (was surprised no one mentioned this product in proceeding 33 pages of thread): https://www.williamsbrewing.com/BREWERS-EDGE-SPACE-HEATER-P518.aspx

What a great thread! Very detailed, feedback from the manufacturer, and I'm gonna save about $140 over the dual stage Ranco I was considering!

Check the descriptions
They're both 308s.
And will work fine
 
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Just got mine finally (funding issue), no issues as of yet with 3 x 3L water bottles in my 7CF Chest Freezer. I have been waiting on this since we moved back in June to start brewing again. This weekend will be a nice little brew day!
 
I set this up in a 7 cu ft chest freezer to help control ferm temps. I was planning on popping by Home Depot tonight to get some heat in there but it really doesn't seem to need it so far. Besides raising temps above ambient in a shorter amount of time, is there really any need for heat? I've taped the probe to the side of the fermentation bucket under a dish cloth and the temps seem to be pretty consistent on the beer early on in the fermentation cycle.
 
I set this up in a 7 cu ft chest freezer to help control ferm temps. I was planning on popping by Home Depot tonight to get some heat in there but it really doesn't seem to need it so far. Besides raising temps above ambient in a shorter amount of time, is there really any need for heat? I've taped the probe to the side of the fermentation bucket under a dish cloth and the temps seem to be pretty consistent on the beer early on in the fermentation cycle.

Whether or not you'll need heat in the ferm chamber depends a lot on the temperature outside the chamber. It the temp is always at or above fermentation temps, you can probably forgo adding heating to the chamber. However, if it ever gets cold outside the chamber (garage in winter) you will probably need heat at some point.

Brew on :mug:
 
Yes, I can highly recommend the Inkbird 308, I have 2 and they work great. There are others out there that are probably nicer, but are double or triple the price of this one. With this lower price you can buy 2 and ferment 2 batches at the same time, perfect for experiments etc. It's awesome.
 
Whether or not you'll need heat in the ferm chamber depends a lot on the temperature outside the chamber. It the temp is always at or above fermentation temps, you can probably forgo adding heating to the chamber. However, if it ever gets cold outside the chamber (garage in winter) you will probably need heat at some point.

Brew on :mug:

That was my logic as well. I was just making sure I wasn't overlooking something glaringly obvious. I appreciate you weighing in. Fortunately for me, and unfortunately for my previous batches, my condo here in Canada runs really warm all of the time.
 
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